IH 175B The Beast!

[OldandWorn]

I like that! Good ole field engineering.

 

[boone]

Making it work with what you got...aggie engineering style. Nice work Goldtrigger. :thumbsup

 

[Goldtrigger]

Two steps forward and a giant leap backwards. We were finally back at it last night, just before a small thunderstorm blew in. We toted the generator and air compressor out to the ranch and the plan was to pull the badly damaged pinion shaft and put the new one in and polish the mating surfaces of the final drive before we put it together this morning. We locked the brakes as Malcomb suggested and slowly pulled the shaft out, about 4 inches and that was all she would move! We rolled it around tried several different angles and it was a no go. Got on the phone to Willie and Duane up at Chartrand in Illinois, and read off the serial number of the Beast, and guess what, the Beast is a new series machine and has a snap ring that holds the pinion shaft in so we have to pull the top off the brake assembly to get to the snap ring. Aarrgh! Because we have rippers, we have pull the fuel tank, which we just topped off, and just about everything else on the top of the loader. Pictures of this mess to follow!

 

[OldandWorn]

It sounds like your working conditions are similar to mine. I'm not looking foward to doing any major jobs on my stuff.

 

[malcolm]

Bugger I have to say after many years looking after TD15s and 175s I have never had to lift the top rear cover , Pity I am so far away I would love to come and have a look best of luck
regards Malcolm

 

[Goldtrigger]

Wish there was an easy way in there, take a look!-

:cool2 here are the pictures. We had a huge thunderstorm Saturday night, maybe a small tornado. With any luck, it might have blown it away, fat chance! After my morning real job, I am on my way out to the ranch to see what is left and vacuum out the battery well and see what is down there. As a fat boy standing on my head trying to see what is down there, it is not fun. Too many hoses and cables. The manuals are not real clear as to what goes where so will just have to start disconnecting see what comes loose. I may drag the power washer back out there and give it a go to see if it clarifies the battery well any.

 

[OldandWorn]

The best of luck....I wish the pics were bigger.

 

[boone]

...so we have to pull the top off the brake assembly to get to the snap ring. Aarrgh!

Sha-zam! That doesn't sound like a quick job. That's a real shame Goldtrigger. Hopefully your manual's got a pretty good procedure for the disassembly. I know what you mean about the miriad of hoses and cables under the seat. Hope you get it going without too much of a headache.

 

[Goldtrigger]

I will try to make the pics bigger. I have them at 3 mg pixels but could not upload them.

 

[Goldtrigger]

Larger Pics

 

[Goldtrigger]

Bigger Pics

 

[malcolm]

A thought
can you get the round pto shaft cover plate of the rear , maybee you could reach the circlip from there it dosent look far from the rear cover to where the circlip willbe
there must be an access hole along side the crown wheel
best of luck malcolm

 

[Goldtrigger]

Malcom, Thanks for the picture. You have made it infintely more clear than the picture in our manual. Do you have phone number we can call you? An international phonecall might be worth the money to help us. We have been talking to Chartrand and they tell us we cannot get to this snap ring from the pto entry. Would you have any other pictures better than this one? According to Chartrand, there is a small plate accessable from the back of the loader, under the fuel tank, held down by 4 bolts that, when removed, allow us to remove the cable that drives the brake pack. Once that is disconnected, we can remove the entire outer final drive carrier with the pinion shaft entact and get to the snap ring. Does that sound right? Our concern is having the brake clutches fall down and not being able to get the shaft back into the loader.

 

[malcolm]

Hi I had assumed the circlip was on the inner end of the shaft it looks now it is either on the inner side of the brake assy or on the inside of the inside pinion
brg . It makes more sense now to disconnect the brake cable and remove the inner final drive housing you are nearly there just another ring of tight bolts.
The whole brake assy will come out with that housing virtually all the black pieces in the drawing. the housing holding the brake discs is bolted to it as well
so will stay together and go back the same way .If you can not reach the lower end of the cable just disconnect the top end and push it inside to come out with
everything else maybee tie a small rope to it for more control .
. You will have to balance it fairly square to get the shaft out of the clutch disc and the inner gear ,
Again the clutch disc will stay clamped tight as long as you dont pull the lever .I dont have any more drawings just memories but you are saving your self a lot
of work this way you will also be able easily line up the brake discs as you put the new shaft through as they will be right there my ph no is 09 2381116 feel free
any time regards malcolm

 

[Goldtrigger]

It was a fun day before the heat set in!

More Aggie engineering. Walt and I started work at 0600 this morning loosining the big bolts on the inner final drive carrier. We had concerns about how we were going to get the one's on the lower side loose. The 3/4 socket set on the 3/4 breaker just would not fit on some of them. 1 1/8" is their size so a open/box wrench was the next option, but we had to come up with a way to get enough torque to break them loose.

Solution, Using Walt's Kubota Gator's winch, we hooked the winch cable to the box wrench while I held it and Walt operated the winch. Once broken loose, all but one were finger loose

Next problem was getting all the crud off the small plate under the fuel tank. Back the 25 miles to town to haul out a barrel of water and the power washer and power wash everything under the seat and under the fuel tank. Once that was clean, the bolts on the small plate were visible and came loose with the air ratchet.

As you can see, we can see the cable we need to disconnect to complete the disassembly. Problem is, you need a skinny, tripple-jointed arm to reach down the six or so inches to disconnect that pin so we can pull the assembly from the loader

Conclusion, the fuel tank, ripper control and hydraulic tank MUST come off to give us room to pull this pin, but more importantly, hook it back up when we reassemble!
By that point it was just after 1230 and about 100 Degrees and we were done for this weekend. Happy Memorial Day to all you Vets!

 

[malcolm]

cable

are you sure you cant undo the top end adjuster i think there is a spring loaded cable return which comes up into the housing from the bottom and probably held up with a circlip which would allow it to be pushed down to go out with the assy . once the housing moves out a bit there should be room for it all , sure will save a lot of work if you can cheers malcolm

 

[Goldtrigger]

Malcom, good point. I will run out to the ranch as soon as I can and take the camera and shoot up at the top end of the cable and see what is holding it up there. Instead of reaching down to undo it, you maybe right; maybe we can undo it at the top, which we can reach. That would make it a whole lot simpler. We will let you know.

 

[Goldtrigger]

Malcom, et al, we are shut down for a while, with no success in finishing the final drive removal. After further consultation with Duane at Chartrand, we ignorant newbies finally understood where the two 15/16 inch bolts were located in the brake pack well. Using a flash light and a mirror we could see one and get a socket and extensions on it. Despite maximum hammering with the impact wrench, it would not break loose! There was no room to work a cheater bar on it. We tried all our tricks and finally gave up with the realization the fuel tank, hydraulic tank, and ripper control were going to have to come off. Even if we could get the bolts broken loose and out, we doubted we could ever get them back in and torqued properly with the tank assembly in place.

Sunday night we drained the fuel out, cleaned up everything around the loader, shut everything down and brought the tools back to town. I am away on business and vacation for the next 3 weeks, so it will just have to sit there and bake in the fine Texas sun!

 

[boone]

Goldtrigger, thanks for keeping us posted. I check-in from time to time for updates on your project. I know it's frustrating as there is little room on top of that transmission case. We've surveyed ours a few times for what ifs that would cause us to remove everything to access it. Best of luck and hope you have a good vacation.

 

[Goldtrigger]

Final Drive is OUT!

:notworthy Success at last. Thanks to all your advice and help, we got the final drive out Saturday. Friday, we got the tank assembly off, not without some problems. Whomever put the suncover/ROPS on the Beast welded the ROPS to the deck and in doing so, partially captured two each of the horizontal bolts that hold the tank plate in place. So, it was back to town on Friday to haul the torch and bottles out to the ranch to cut the welds and part of the ROPS plate out of the way so we could get the bolts out. We wound up cutting one of the bolts on the left side out, it was just too much trouble to cut around the ROPS to free it up. We used friend Walt's winch on the front of his Kubota gator to lift the tanks off, worked like a charm.

Turned out the ripper buffer was not even hooked up!, Just a dummy assembly sitting there, the hydraylic line was capped off. We'll try hooking that up when we re-assemble.

Once the tanks were off, we could see our power washing had not done as much as we thought, ugly under there. But the area to get at the two bolts we needed to free the final drive was clean enough, so we got the long extension and 15/16" socket on them, 8 foot cheater and they popped loose easy. Using a short lenghth of parachute cord to tie the brake actuator lever out of the way, a pry bar to lever the final drive loose, it came right out.

The pinion shaft turned out to be held in by 2 circlips. We had to take the brake pack apart to get out the 2d inner circlip.

The pinion shaft we received as a replacement will probably not work. We thought we could take it to a machine shop and have the circlip slot cut into it, but the inner slot is off the spline area and no way to lengthen the splines I can see; too thin in the shaft size in that area.

Other than finding a correct pinion shaft, one inner shaft seal and a replacement boot for the brake actuator cable, we are probably good to go for reassembly. Hopefully that won't take too long. We start work at 0600 and have to be done by 1100, it is just too hot otherwise. We will powerwash next weekend and begin reassembly if we can get the parts!!