Numbfingers
Well-Known Member
Awesome idea! I'll use that for when I install my Karrykrimp.
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Full Circle- Back to where I started (almost)
- Thread starter Crummy
- Start date
Numbfingers
Well-Known Member
Crowley does quite a bit of oil&gas business up here.
hvy 1ton
Senior Member
Not a huge fan of solder splices for automotive wiring, but lots of heat shrink almost makes up for it. Solder and vibrations don't go well together.
Birken Vogt
Charter Member
I agree. My policy is to do it however the OEM would have done it. I have some fairly expensive tooling and boxes of terminals but once you do it that way, it stays fixed.
Theoretically, if you solder it and heat shrink it further up the wire than the solder wicked up the strands, it should be fine but there is no way of knowing how far it wicked.
The only solder is on the supported running splices- insulation stripped, wire NOT cut on the main run. Everything else is crimped with a real crimper+ heat shrink. Looking at how the big expensive body builder did it originally in the first picture post #303.....
Birken Vogt
Charter Member
Post 303 pic #1 is a sonic weld. We are missing some context there but normally they are very reliable, most mfrs use them now. I don't know how they are made, though. What was wrong with it?
If I need to make a running splice I cut and use a butt connector with 2 wires in one side. You can get step down butt connectors that have different colors on each end but I have taken to stripping the single end twice as long and folding it back onto itself to double the diameter.
If I need to make a running splice I cut and use a butt connector with 2 wires in one side. You can get step down butt connectors that have different colors on each end but I have taken to stripping the single end twice as long and folding it back onto itself to double the diameter.
Nothing, you are right on that.
mitch504
Senior Member
That's exactly how I do it.
ETER
Well-Known Member
Lots of good "how to" and "not how to" info here (I did not know that soldered connections and vibration were a bad combo) or about the aluminum wire being used? (had me looking at my rolls of wire). I do see a lot of heat shrink connects full of the "green cheese" from improper crimpers being used.
Regards Bob
Regards Bob
Got the back-up & amber wigwag's in to fill the holes in the box. Even though my new placement of the stop-tail-turn isn't optimum, I think it's better than where they were and having the crane obstructing the right side. One thing occurred to me after all this time- there's no clearance lights on the lid. Looked up the FMVSS regs & over 80" wide it sure looks like they are required. I also noticed, of course after filling all those holes and painting, the license plate holes are crooked!
John Shipp
Senior Member
Crummy, I don't think I've ever seen such wonky holes on a licence plate. Did you fill the wrong ones mate?
I don't think so. But now I'll have to go back and look at the pictures to see if I screwed up!
redneckracin
Senior Member
still looking good. Did you end up using a distribution block for the rear end?
No. I probably should have though. Would have been a bit easier.
My new neighbor that had the property behind me logged last month came up this evening and asked if he could park his new excavator behind my shop (I've got security cameras). Nice little machine, 6-way blade too. First time equipment owner and a big project ahead of him.
John Shipp
Senior Member
The blades have come a long way on these machines, looks useful.
I'm guessing with the machine weight & tracks if you tried to use the angle/tilt like a "real" dozer it would just want to turn in circles. I could be wrong though. I wonder how the undercarriage/finals hold up with that blade.