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CAT D3 Project part 2
- Thread starter AllDodge
- Start date
Actuality, I hope your right, but I checked and it appears right. The only thing I did not check was the No 4 valve was tight, No 1's were all loose.
I'll find someone to assist in pinning and see if the comes up different
Timing Setup and Marks
This thing is ticking me off because I followed the manual and what folks here stated.
No 1 cylinder is the one at the front of the engine. The one cloest to the fan and water pump.
Rotated the crank shaft until both valves on No 1 were loose and verified No 4 are tight. Pin is all the way in and I cannot turn the flywheel in either direction.
Here is a picture of the injection pump hole, and while it is not a great pic it should help.
Insert my 3/8 dril bit and use a marker to show depth
Pull the pin out of the flywheel and rotate crank about 2 degrees and I could see the edge, but rotated another 2 degrees to show a better pic
Re-insert my 3/8 drill bit and mark. The bit could not go in as far, about 3/16 inch or so difference
This thing is ticking me off because I followed the manual and what folks here stated.
No 1 cylinder is the one at the front of the engine. The one cloest to the fan and water pump.
Rotated the crank shaft until both valves on No 1 were loose and verified No 4 are tight. Pin is all the way in and I cannot turn the flywheel in either direction.
Here is a picture of the injection pump hole, and while it is not a great pic it should help.
Insert my 3/8 dril bit and use a marker to show depth
Pull the pin out of the flywheel and rotate crank about 2 degrees and I could see the edge, but rotated another 2 degrees to show a better pic
Re-insert my 3/8 drill bit and mark. The bit could not go in as far, about 3/16 inch or so difference
OldandWorn
Senior Member
100% sure that the cam is timed correctly?
How fast does an engine need to be turned over to make an injector pop? Can you do it by turning the engine over by hand? It would be nice if you could pull an injector out and confirm that it's popping (with Hatch's cautions) and also make sure that it happens around TDC on the proper stroke. Can you put something down the injector hole to see where the piston is at when the injector fires?
How fast does an engine need to be turned over to make an injector pop? Can you do it by turning the engine over by hand? It would be nice if you could pull an injector out and confirm that it's popping (with Hatch's cautions) and also make sure that it happens around TDC on the proper stroke. Can you put something down the injector hole to see where the piston is at when the injector fires?
Mobiltech
Senior Member
Timing looks good pin to pin. If your #4 valves are both tight when the pin goes in the flywheel then the cam must be pretty close to right too.
Make sure the rack is opening when you pull the throttle out of shutoff position. You can see the rack shaft in your third picture just above the timing pin hole .
Make sure the rack is opening when you pull the throttle out of shutoff position. You can see the rack shaft in your third picture just above the timing pin hole .
HATCHEQUIP
Senior Member
Dodge that crap didn't come out of the old muffler by chance, Ive seen that happen
How do I do that? The manual shows a jig and using a dial indicator along with a hook being used in the governor area.
If all else fails I'll try that. When I get the new line I'm planning on using more either and a smog mask for me if nothing seems to work.
I don't have the muffler on it right now, just the manifold and u pipe which goes into the muffler. Come to think of it the soot I saw come out is probably from the injectors and has a lot of puddleing going on in the cylinders. If I can get it running with either then maybe I do need a stronger starter. Have to wait till the lines come in.
Nitelite
Senior Member
I think that the engine needs to be spun at 500 rpm in order to pop injectors and start. You know, instead of either, soak a rag in gasoline, ring it out and drape it in the intake path but secure it to keep it from being sucked in if it does start.
HATCHEQUIP
Senior Member
Did the block get bored and sleeved back standard or bored oversized for oversized pistons
Hmm, I would never use gasoline, but that's just me. WD-40 works well and is not as aggressive as ether. Old trick from my tugboat days.
Scrub Puller
Senior Member
Yair . . . lantraxco.
That's interesting, there was a thread about this a while back where you or some other member mentioned WD-40.
There may be different solvents used in the product over here as I tried it on a four cylinder "Standard" diesel in a Fergi and it didn't want to know about it . . . then tried it with the gasoline rag (which I have used for over fifty years) and it lit up right away.
Cheers.
That's interesting, there was a thread about this a while back where you or some other member mentioned WD-40.
There may be different solvents used in the product over here as I tried it on a four cylinder "Standard" diesel in a Fergi and it didn't want to know about it . . . then tried it with the gasoline rag (which I have used for over fifty years) and it lit up right away.
Cheers.
Never heard of that but could be worth a try. I'm sure the engine is hitting 500 rpm if not real close to it. As before, appears to turn over as fast as my 955 or even my 416.
It is bored and sleeved to standard, even put 3 ring pistons in instead of the 2 ring
HATCHEQUIP
Senior Member
You done it rite then
Well Scrub, it seems we're never too old, or too stubborn to learn something new yeah? Next time I encounter a balky diesel, I'll give the gasoline rag a try!
spitzair
Senior Member
I've heard somewhere that not too long ago the propellant used in WD40 was switched to something less flammable so that could be the reason why... I know it used to work very well but haven't tried any lately so I don't know if it's true or not...
I tried WD40 before the either but nothing happened. I think I was told that WD40 worked in vocational training back in my teens (high school days). Never did stick with diesels over the years just like working on the machines.
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The rack moved to the rear about 1/2 inch when going from off to on.