CAT D3 Project part 2

[AllDodge]

D3B project part 1 is here https://www.heavyequipmentforums.com/showthread.php?35871-CAT-D3B-Project

Finally got around to taking the engine apart. What I found just doesn't add up. The engine had water in it and is rusted. Pulled the oil pan off and found both bolts holding the sump tube were in the bottom of the pan and the tube was separated from the oil pump. How or why the engine wound or with at least a gallon or so of water in the pan is beyond me. To guess I figured someone tried to rebuild the motor and only started the bolts holding the oil sump. This still doesn't explain how it ran long enough to find the bolts in the pan or how the water got in. I can find no cracks in the cylinder walls of head. Plan to take both to the machine shop for work.











Have a question here. Have the shop manuals but cannot figure how to get the injection pump off. Can you advise what I need to do?

 

[spitzair]

I once wanted to take the injector pump off of a TD9 that was headed to the scrap yard with a seized engine and it looked very similar to what you have there... It was bolted on from the front under the timing gear and the only way to get to the bolts was through those holes in the timing gear. Of course with a seized up engine there was no way on earth to rotate it enough to get at all the bolts and the effort was abandoned... Machine went for scrap a short time later... Hopefully that's not the way your machine is set up but then again it looks to me like you can turn your crank to move the timing gear...

 

[Cmark]

Have a question here. Have the shop manuals but cannot figure how to get the injection pump off. Can you advise what I need to do?

The gear is on a taper. Get a nice heavy ball pein hammer and, using the ball end, give the gear a moderate smack or two on the non-machined web part. It'll pop off. It sounds brutal but it works. I've done dozens.

Remove the oil manifold from the bottom of the pump, three or four nuts/bolts holding the pump to the timing case and it'll be free.

 

[kshansen]

That engine looks about the same condition I found a Perkins in a genset a couple years ago.

It was a case of pure neglect in storing it. Had to pull head and use air hammer to get pistons free enough to turn crank to disconnect from generator.

If it of any consolation there should be a good running engine inside of that mess with a few new parts and some work you should be able to save it. Just check block for cracks from freezing if that is a problem in your neighborhood.

 

[Mobiltech]

The fuel pump drive gear is on a taper, you can hit it with a hammer or use a puller on the threaded holes in the face. There are three mounting studs with nuts on the pump to front cover joint and then an oil supply manifold under the governor of the pump connected to the block. It has bolts connecting it to the pump

 

[AllDodge]

I pulled one bolt off the bottom , guess there are more I just have been unable to see, will keep looking. I have a puller but will give the ball peen a try. Kind of figured there would be a way of pulling it without moving the front cover but will lest you know what I find.

It sure is weird to find the sump pipe all disconnected, with that the engine couldn't have run for very long

 

[Cmark]

One of the nuts is down between the FIP and the block. You'll need a socket and a couple of extensions to reach along from the back of the pump.

 

[AllDodge]

It warmed up enough to get back to the dozer. I have the service manuals but my exact injection pump is not in the books, go figure. Did get it off, it turned out there where 2 bolts which was unable to see due to crud build up. The last one was a 3rd bolt on the flange face of the pump. The other pumps listed in my manual show one each on top and bottom, this one had a second on the bottom.

The ball peen hammer work great on the pump gear.

Took the head in a few days ago, and will take the pump in for work later next week.

Edit: cmark, you did mention about the other bolt but flew right by me. Did manage to get the nut off using a boxed end ratchet wrench

 

[Old Magnet]

What is the s/n of the unit?

 

[AllDodge]

It's 27Y03918

Edit: All my serial numbers for my equipment is in my signature file but they don't show up

 

[AllDodge]

The fuel transfer pump currently on the engine is 1W-0568 and does not have a primer pump. Figure it would probably be able to use the new part number 4N-6835 which has the primer, cost 570.89 at CAT. Without a primer pump how would you get all the air out?

 

[kshansen]

The fuel transfer pump currently on the engine is 1W-0568 and does not have a primer pump. Figure it would probably be able to use the new part number 4N-6835 which has the primer, cost 570.89 at CAT. Without a primer pump how would you get all the air out?

Is the fuel tank higher than the fuel pump on engine? If so then it should gravity feed.

 

[AllDodge]

Is the fuel tank higher than the fuel pump on engine? If so then it should gravity feed.

Yes it is a bit higher, so I was kind of figuring that was how it was done. Guess the pump would make it faster or if it wasn't at a full level position. Don't see a bleed port, guess you have to crack a line maybe

 

[Old Magnet]

Been following along here best I can...seems every one of these D3 models is a bit different. I don't have the 27Y parts book and what you have doesn't match the 28Y.
Your injection/transfer pump matches the D3C and has a priming pump attachment
4N4314 which mounts to the top of the fuel filter housing. Do you have a fuel filter with a two bolt cover on the top where the primer could be mounted?

 

[Cmark]

You need a later fuel filter head, part number 4N3295, gasket 1P0436 and priming pump 4W0788.

There is a service mag detailing the retrofit. If you're interested, PM me with an email address and I'll shoot you a copy. If you want to get the info from your dealer, ask them for SEBD1877.

 

[Old Magnet]

Ok, good info, thanks.
That's the same filter head as the D3C parts but for some reason it shows a different primer pump.

 

[Cmark]

Ok, good info, thanks.
That's the same filter head as the D3C parts but for some reason it shows a different primer pump.

That oval shape two-different-size-bolt priming pump mounting is pretty much standard on all Cat (non Mitsubishi) machines.

The difference is in the pumps. I must have seen at least five different models, all with different constuctions and stroke lengths. As far as I know, any pump that will fit will do the job.

 

[Old Magnet]

Agreed, the 4W0788 pump shows six interchange numbers but the 4N4314 is not one of them???

 

[AllDodge]

Been following along here best I can...seems every one of these D3 models is a bit different. I don't have the 27Y parts book and what you have doesn't match the 28Y.
Your injection/transfer pump matches the D3C and has a priming pump attachment
4N4314 which mounts to the top of the fuel filter housing. Do you have a fuel filter with a two bolt cover on the top where the primer could be mounted?

No, my filter housing does not have the holes.

You need a later fuel filter head, part number 4N3295, gasket 1P0436 and priming pump 4W0788.

There is a service mag detailing the retrofit. If you're interested, PM me with an email address and I'll shoot you a copy. If you want to get the info from your dealer, ask them for SEBD1877.

Will do, thanks

 

[AllDodge]

Did some looking and believe I understand what is needed. The 4N3295 is the filter base which I would then need the 4W0788 hand pump which is mounted to the top. Found the pump on ebay for 17 and the filter housing tractor house but no price. Wayne Supply (Cat dealer) wants 148.62 for the housing. Isn't there a in-line hand pump, seam to have seen a couple of them on some older equipment?

Edit: Just looked the rest of the parts on line at CAT
filter base 148.62
primer pump 100.03

Gee I need to find a cheaper place for some parts