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CAT D3 Project part 2

theironoracle

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bob, it wouldn't. suppose that doesn't apply to this motor......TIO
 

kshansen

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Alldodge, water in the oil. This can happen when the oil cooler fails, or when the water pump fails and the weep hole is plugged, or when aftercooler fails but you probably don't have one of those on this tractor. there are many other ways but in my experience these are the most common......TIO

One thing that I think is missing or not clear is are we talking about water or coolant? Often people will use the terms interchangeably but this can cause confusion. There are times you can have water in the oil but not coolant! Say from a missing filler cap or water down an exhaust pipe, or even condensation in an engine stored for long time. Of course it can make things harder to diagnose if straight water is used as the coolant, not a good idea even in warm areas.
 

AllDodge

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I was actually talking about removing the cooler base. It seals onto the block with O rings and you'll be wanting to replace them while you're at it. They leak when they've got a few hours on them. It also containg the cooler bypass valve which you should remove and clean/check.

The cooler core will just be stuck to the base as suggested by kshansen.

Sorry for the confusion.
OK, thanks, I'm getting all the gaskets needed for a full overhaul, so the should come with them. CAT says they don't have an overhaul kit so I need to get 4 different sets to cover the whole engine.

Alldodge, water in the oil. This can happen when the oil cooler fails, or when the water pump fails and the weep hole is plugged, or when aftercooler fails but you probably don't have one of those on this tractor. there are many other ways but in my experience these are the most common......TIO

One thing that I think is missing or not clear is are we talking about water or coolant? Often people will use the terms interchangeably but this can cause confusion. There are times you can have water in the oil but not coolant! Say from a missing filler cap or water down an exhaust pipe, or even condensation in an engine stored for long time. Of course it can make things harder to diagnose if straight water is used as the coolant, not a good idea even in warm areas.

When I picked up the tractor there was no coolent or water in the radiator. When the oil was drained there was about a gallon or ore of water which came out. I saw nothing that looked green, just clear. Who ever did it tried to cover up the water, because when I pulled the dip stick the oil appeared at the correct level. Still leaning toward who ever did the work forgot to tighten up the bolts on the oil sump tube. Engine had no oil pressure so how knows how many years it sat around before I go it, but the inside of the motor looks diecent.

Cost is adding up but so far it doesn't look to bad.
1700 for injection pump overhaul
450 for gaskets
150 for new original style oil cooler if needed (probably going to do this anyway)
Will figure out what size bearings and such when I get the block and crank worked on
 

AllDodge

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Well removed the injection pump and have it ready to go to get overhauled. Noticed the oil manifold appears to be part of the oil cooler, it probably isn't but just looks like it
Photo145_zps81e636d6.jpg

Removed the dash and now I have access to remove the bolts holding the tranny.
Photo146_zps47f8b039.jpg

One more good day of warm weather and the engine should be out.
Photo143_zpsb0bc77a1.jpg
 

AllDodge

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Got the engine out and have it ready to go to the machine shop tomorrow.

Have a issue getting the cam gear off. In the manual it mentions a tool used to remove a screw in the center but I see no screw. I put a heavy puller on it but didn't want to maybe damage something so I stopped. Could use some help.
Photo150_zps8bad33ba.jpg

Photo149_zpscb390392.jpg

Engine out
Photo148_zpsc4b2ddd7.jpg

Photo147_zps8534c853.jpg
 

Cmark

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Why do you want to take it off? Unless you've got a good reason to remove the cam gear, dont bother. It's on there tight!
 

Mobiltech

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Yeah the gear is pretty tight. Just pull the cam out with the gear on then If you want you can put it in a press and press the gear off which is a lot easier than using a puller.
 

Old Magnet

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Not sure what it's for, the 45V engine parts book refers to 4N5201 as a dowel (might have a small dia. pulling thread). Other manuals refer to it as a stud. Anybody know the actual function?
 

AllDodge

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The cam is a bit rusty and thought I need to remove it so the machine shop can do their thing, measuring and polishing. I can take it in as it was and see if they have an issue with it.
 

Cmark

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I'd leave it on. The camshaft and gear come as an assembly and you can't buy either one individually if you bugger something up.

Old Magnet.
That dowel may just be a blank for an oil passage up the middle ??
 
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HATCHEQUIP

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you don't think that the reason the pickup tube was already off was because somebody had already started working on it and said **** on it and put the pan back on and the water just got in from rain
 

AllDodge

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you don't think that the reason the pickup tube was already off was because somebody had already started working on it and said **** on it and put the pan back on and the water just got in from rain

It's just to weird, if the signs or rust is not looked at, the engine looks real good. Took everything to the machine shop yesterday and the engine has sleeves in it. There is no scoring in the cylinders and no ring groove. Only item that shows wear is the bearings and they scored but not that much. Still reminds me that the engine lost oil pressure and that was it.

Hope once I get everything back together there won't be any problem with the tranny or final drives. Going to pull the filter screen out and replace Hyd and tranny filters.
 

kshansen

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It's just to weird, if the signs or rust is not looked at, the engine looks real good. Took everything to the machine shop yesterday and the engine has sleeves in it. There is no scoring in the cylinders and no ring groove. Only item that shows wear is the bearings and they scored but not that much. Still reminds me that the engine lost oil pressure and that was it.

Hope once I get everything back together there won't be any problem with the tranny or final drives. Going to pull the filter screen out and replace Hyd and tranny filters.

Did you pull the sleeves? I would at least do that to replace the orings around the bottom and inspect for pitting on the outside of the sleeves.

OKAY time for a dope slap! I was thinking this had a 3304 not a 3204. 3204 would be dry sleeves so no orings involved! And I'm on my second cup of coffee:eek:
 
Last edited:

AllDodge

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Did you pull the sleeves? I would at least do that to replace the orings around the bottom and inspect for pitting on the outside of the sleeves

Haven't pulled the sleeves and the shop didn't mention it. This engine (3204) didn't have sleeves so it was bored then sleeved. Would the sleeves for this engine have O-rings or are they pressed fitted?
 

kshansen

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Haven't pulled the sleeves and the shop didn't mention it. This engine (3204) didn't have sleeves so it was bored then sleeved. Would the sleeves for this engine have O-rings or are they pressed fitted?

See my "EDIT" to previous post!
 

AllDodge

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Just checked the oil pump and at .009 gap it needs replacing.

Here is what some of the mains looked like
Photo152_zpsca7dd0e4.jpg

Here are some Rods
Photo153_zps18d2c8f5.jpg

Then I pulled the rocker arms off and might just have to replace all of them. Number 4 cylinder are the worst and get better as they go to number 1. The pitting could be buffed out but the manual says rocker bore max is .8630 and the shaft min is .8570. only giving .006 wiggle.
Photo154_zpscb92d17c.jpg

Photo155_zpsf2899a63.jpg
 
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