It's a Caterpillar thing. When they write a D&A (disassembly & assembly) you get instructed how to disassemble everything, down to the last washer........
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CAT D3 Project part 2
- Thread starter AllDodge
- Start date
It's a Caterpillar thing. When they write a D&A (disassembly & assembly) you get instructed how to disassemble everything, down to the last washer........
What does cat use to seal the engine block to bell housing and the front timing cover? Talk about hard to get off, had to do a lot of wire wheeling just for a paper gasket.
Also, the manual states to align the cam and crank with the markings, but does not specifically state how to first set the injection pump. It does get into timing but I was hoping after I have the pump rebuilt I could just slide it in.
Also, the manual states to align the cam and crank with the markings, but does not specifically state how to first set the injection pump. It does get into timing but I was hoping after I have the pump rebuilt I could just slide it in.
Have another question, manual shows there is a sleeve installed (item 11) on the outside of the relief valve with the edge facing down. Once installed there should be .023 to top edge of machined surface. The issue is I didn't have a sleeve on the relief valve. Someone had been in previous because there was no lock hold clip on any of the bolts.
Here is the relief valve Guide
Kind of looking like I need a couple more parts, wonder of I pick up an oil pump does it come with all the pieces?
Here is the relief valve Guide
Kind of looking like I need a couple more parts, wonder of I pick up an oil pump does it come with all the pieces?
HATCHEQUIP
Senior Member
Every thing but a pickup and gear
Your comment is about the oil pump, what gear is it missing?
HATCHEQUIP
Senior Member
Memory FAR_ like Kshan i was thinking 3304. SORRY yours would be only the inner and outer lobed pump parts the outer bushing and relief are separate parts
HATCHEQUIP
Senior Member
probably cat green cement good stuff but apain when it has to come back apart
timing---- pin engine on #1tdc not #4 then pin pump slide together and tighten bolts
I found the plug to remove on the bell housing for pinning (I'm figuring). Has a stamping by the plug has TCNO1 on it. I'll ask the folks rebuilding the pump how to pin it.
Thanks
Found out what the issue is from CAT. My engine was made in Apr 1987 and the oil pump was changed in Sep of 86. Guess this and the other changes I find is why my engine is not full illustrated in the D3 manual
Got the engine back and have installed pistons, crank and Cam.
Also installed front cover and had an issue with the gasket. My cover is discontinued 1W4262 and they no longer make the gasket. Had to take the one I had and do some cut and paste. Will post more pictures later.
Latest question: Going to install the rear seal and wear sleeve. The manual says to use CAT primer 6V1541 and then use retaining compound 9S3265. Can anything else work in place of these two items. CAT wants around $30 each and since this is just for one time, I'm looking for something else that would work.
Also installed front cover and had an issue with the gasket. My cover is discontinued 1W4262 and they no longer make the gasket. Had to take the one I had and do some cut and paste. Will post more pictures later.
Latest question: Going to install the rear seal and wear sleeve. The manual says to use CAT primer 6V1541 and then use retaining compound 9S3265. Can anything else work in place of these two items. CAT wants around $30 each and since this is just for one time, I'm looking for something else that would work.
kshansen
Senior Member
- Joined
- Mar 11, 2012
- Messages
- 11,165
- Location
- Central New York, USA
- Occupation
- Retired Mechanic in Stone Quarry
Just wondering what is the Part Number of the seal you are installing? Did it come with the wear sleeve in it or were they separate?
If they are the style that can be installed separate one way I have used to push the wear sleeve on is to tap it on part way with a rubber hammer then use the flywheel with three bolts to push it on. Just need to be sure to tighten the bolts evenly and make sure it's going on straight to begin with. If there is a ledge in the flywheel housing that makes pushing the seal in easy to get it straight. As I said if these are the style that can go in separate sometimes the lip of the seal will not like to slip over the wear sleeve without turning inside out, not good! What I have found helps a lot is to wrap one or two layers of electrical tape over the end of crankshaft with just maybe 1/8 inch on the wear sleeve. This along with some oil makes the seal lip slip up on to the sleeve easy then you can peal off the tape.
Just need to be sure if the seal you have is one where they can be installed separate! Could you post a picture of the seal from both sides?
The seal is 7W3202 and it doesn't call for it to be installed separately, at least from what I read from the manual. Even though the manual doesn't say it can, it doesn't say it cannot. I'm thinking it can be installed with the right touch. The wear ring slides fairly easy in and out of the seal. If I get the wear ring on the crank first, then install the seal on the bell housing. I think trouble could come in when sliding the bell housing on due to it's weight. If I can get it supported correctly it should go right on.
Bell housing and Flywheel installed
Well got the bell housing and flywheel on. Did as we discussed kshansen and it worked, many thanks. Used Permatex cylinder adhesive and put the wear ring on, then installed the seal in the housing. Put tap around forward edge and used some oil, slide right on. Managed to get the oil sump tube on use blue locktite on those bolts, don't want them coming off again. Installed the oil pan and lifters, think she is about ready to go in.
Torqued all bolts as the manual stated but sure thought they would have used a higher number. Bell housing 7/16 inch diameter coarse thread went to 37 +/- 4 FTLB, and flywheel was 7/16 fine thread were 55 +/- 5 FTLB. Oh well, just hope it all works out. Thing I'll try installing this thing tomorrow if I can find some help to steady it
Well got the bell housing and flywheel on. Did as we discussed kshansen and it worked, many thanks. Used Permatex cylinder adhesive and put the wear ring on, then installed the seal in the housing. Put tap around forward edge and used some oil, slide right on. Managed to get the oil sump tube on use blue locktite on those bolts, don't want them coming off again. Installed the oil pan and lifters, think she is about ready to go in.
Torqued all bolts as the manual stated but sure thought they would have used a higher number. Bell housing 7/16 inch diameter coarse thread went to 37 +/- 4 FTLB, and flywheel was 7/16 fine thread were 55 +/- 5 FTLB. Oh well, just hope it all works out. Thing I'll try installing this thing tomorrow if I can find some help to steady it
kshansen
Senior Member
- Joined
- Mar 11, 2012
- Messages
- 11,165
- Location
- Central New York, USA
- Occupation
- Retired Mechanic in Stone Quarry
Installed
Put the engine in today with help from the wife. Kept the head off until it was in then put it in, adjusted rocker, cranked it around until she is now a TDC on No 1. Pined the block so maybe tomorrow I can get the injection pump installed. Been painting everything white because it's what I had on hand. Might leave it that way, who knows, got to get running first.
Put the engine in today with help from the wife. Kept the head off until it was in then put it in, adjusted rocker, cranked it around until she is now a TDC on No 1. Pined the block so maybe tomorrow I can get the injection pump installed. Been painting everything white because it's what I had on hand. Might leave it that way, who knows, got to get running first.
No 4 Rocker Adjustment
Have had some problems with the machine shop I used to do the work. Checked the mains and rods with plastic gauge and all were within range. I looked at the cam but did not check it other then visual. No 4 cylinder was the worst with rust when the engine was torn down, figure it was the one where the rain water came into the engine. All the lifters cleaned up pretty well and saw nothing that would give me concern.
After adjusting No 4 exhaust for .025 I noticed I didn't have full thread on the nut. The intake side appears acceptable and there are a couple others which are close but all have full thread. My options are to pull the cam back out and replace (don't want to do that, or maybe putting the jam nut under the rocker? What do you think?
Just noticed something before I posted this. The push rod looks different then all the others in the engine. May have been replaced with one which is a bit shorter. Think I'll swap the rods to see if that is the case. Would still like your opinion of putting the nut on the bottom of the rocker
Have had some problems with the machine shop I used to do the work. Checked the mains and rods with plastic gauge and all were within range. I looked at the cam but did not check it other then visual. No 4 cylinder was the worst with rust when the engine was torn down, figure it was the one where the rain water came into the engine. All the lifters cleaned up pretty well and saw nothing that would give me concern.
After adjusting No 4 exhaust for .025 I noticed I didn't have full thread on the nut. The intake side appears acceptable and there are a couple others which are close but all have full thread. My options are to pull the cam back out and replace (don't want to do that, or maybe putting the jam nut under the rocker? What do you think?
Just noticed something before I posted this. The push rod looks different then all the others in the engine. May have been replaced with one which is a bit shorter. Think I'll swap the rods to see if that is the case. Would still like your opinion of putting the nut on the bottom of the rocker
I think it's unlikely to be a problem with the cam. You adjust the clearance on the 'back' of the lobe which gets very little wear.
Possible causes are;
Bent/wrong pushrod,
Lifter worn to excess,
Valve stem too short,
Worn pad on the rocker arm.
I wouldn't try to fix it with a bodge if I were you. I think you should try to work out the actual problem.
Possible causes are;
Bent/wrong pushrod,
Lifter worn to excess,
Valve stem too short,
Worn pad on the rocker arm.
I wouldn't try to fix it with a bodge if I were you. I think you should try to work out the actual problem.
kshansen
Senior Member
- Joined
- Mar 11, 2012
- Messages
- 11,165
- Location
- Central New York, USA
- Occupation
- Retired Mechanic in Stone Quarry
I think I'd try swapping the push rod with another that looks different. Do they happen to have part numbers on them?
I agree, after posting and thinking about it, (takes a while old guy stuff) I ordered a new push rod. Hey listen to this... Looked up the part on line at CAT and tells me it is 10.68 for a push rod, but also says it has been superseded and to contact dealer. Called dealer and they said it's just a part number change and it will automatically give me the new number. I ordered the part and the 10.68 part went to 31.89 each (they had 1 in stock) unless I want the classic part which was 14.50 each. I ordered the CAT part because it was at Louisville and could be picked up as we passed thru tomorrow. Dang there is no way a push rod is worth