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CAT D3 Project part 2
- Thread starter AllDodge
- Start date
It's ALIVE
I cranked and cranked and got nothing but puffs of white smoke. I started hitting it with either and it would run for only a second until the either was gone. Again and again the same thing. So I did what Hatch mentioned with 3 of the 4 injectors. The injectors were attached to the adapters and facing straight up. Crank the engine and after a short bit I see them popping.
Reinstall the injectors and crank it and it hits but not run. Hit it again and it fires up and runs great. The only thing I can think of is since it did not have a prime pump installed it took all this to get the air out. Either way it is alive and I'm going to put the rest of the stuff on it tomorrow and find out what shape the running gear and hydraulics are in.
Thanks for all the help
I cranked and cranked and got nothing but puffs of white smoke. I started hitting it with either and it would run for only a second until the either was gone. Again and again the same thing. So I did what Hatch mentioned with 3 of the 4 injectors. The injectors were attached to the adapters and facing straight up. Crank the engine and after a short bit I see them popping.
Reinstall the injectors and crank it and it hits but not run. Hit it again and it fires up and runs great. The only thing I can think of is since it did not have a prime pump installed it took all this to get the air out. Either way it is alive and I'm going to put the rest of the stuff on it tomorrow and find out what shape the running gear and hydraulics are in.
Thanks for all the help
Andrew_D
Senior Member
Congrats!
Andrew
Andrew
It move and brakes appear good, but have 2 more issues
Drove it out today, and looks like the tranny is OK, will need to run it a bit more before a final determination. So far so good.
1st Issue, No 3 injector was the one I had trouble with the leak and cranked on it to hard (I guess) so the collar cracked. Picked up two new ones from CAT and also replaced No 2, just didn't look right. No 3 is still leaking, took it back off and blew it out, inspected with my old eyes and could find nothing. Bent the line just a hair just to see if the would help but no luck. Have any ideas why it would be leaking?
2nd issue isn't much really, old dozer has the left/right angle lines leaking real bad. Still taking them apart but both are leaking where the metal lines go in between the forward and rear flex lines.
Drove it out today, and looks like the tranny is OK, will need to run it a bit more before a final determination. So far so good.
1st Issue, No 3 injector was the one I had trouble with the leak and cranked on it to hard (I guess) so the collar cracked. Picked up two new ones from CAT and also replaced No 2, just didn't look right. No 3 is still leaking, took it back off and blew it out, inspected with my old eyes and could find nothing. Bent the line just a hair just to see if the would help but no luck. Have any ideas why it would be leaking?
2nd issue isn't much really, old dozer has the left/right angle lines leaking real bad. Still taking them apart but both are leaking where the metal lines go in between the forward and rear flex lines.
spitzair
Senior Member
Congratulations on getting 'er running! :drinkup
Yes, the pump was rebuilt by Diesel Injection Service in Louisville. Maybe they missed that No 3 had an issue. Guess I can call and ask, but if it is the bonnet can it be easily replaced or does the pump need to come apart?
Dug out all the crud that was in side the arm and removed the guards off the blade arms (what ever there called). The two short hoses had been replaced and looked fairly good. The two longer ones with the wire coating didn't look the same. One had a cut on the outer jacket and the other the armor wire was falling apart.
Did notice the steel part of the lines are not held off the arm and do a bit of rubbing. I did feel of see a crank and plan to put pieces of hose over the areas that make contact.
Did notice the steel part of the lines are not held off the arm and do a bit of rubbing. I did feel of see a crank and plan to put pieces of hose over the areas that make contact.
Mobiltech
Senior Member
The bonnet can be replaced without removing the pump. Takes a bit of instruction to do by yourself. If its leaking they should fix it for you but they will want you to bring the pump to them.
Thanks much, that's what I was afraid of. Figured no matter what I would have to remove the pump, gee wiz. Was hoping there would be some kind lapping tool to use to freshen up the face of it. I'll give them a call this AM and ask
HATCHEQUIP
Senior Member
You might want to try another line first since youve allready had 2 of 4 bad 
opcorn
opcornYou might want to try another line first since youve allready had 2 of 4 bad
It would be one of four. Three has always leaked a bit so I bought a new line for it. While I was at it replaced two because just didn't like the way it looked (no leak). Each line is $75 a piece
HATCHEQUIP
Senior Member
Then bend 2 to fit just to try it and see what happens
kshansen
Senior Member
- Joined
- Mar 11, 2012
- Messages
- 11,167
- Location
- Central New York, USA
- Occupation
- Retired Mechanic in Stone Quarry
Call Diesel Injection Service and they will be coming to my location to fix it. You just cannot find better service then that. Wow
Put on a pot of coffee had make them something for lunch, need to take good care of someone like that!:thumbsup
Found the leak, Crack in Steel line
Looks like both the steel lines going to the tile cylinders have a crak in them. CAT wants 110 for one and 102 for the other side. Thinking about other options for the fix.
Quickest way would be to go intown and have some flex lines made up with male ends. Issue with this is I would have to modify the guards to keep them protected. Would probably take some doing so I'm still leaning at buying the new lines.
Is there any method to fix them as I would with brake lines, or is the prossure to great?
Looks like both the steel lines going to the tile cylinders have a crak in them. CAT wants 110 for one and 102 for the other side. Thinking about other options for the fix.
Quickest way would be to go intown and have some flex lines made up with male ends. Issue with this is I would have to modify the guards to keep them protected. Would probably take some doing so I'm still leaning at buying the new lines.
Is there any method to fix them as I would with brake lines, or is the prossure to great?