CASE 450 . DIESEL

[Tinkerer]

You are right Delmer. He is starting from scratch. A difficult task for even an experienced repairman.
Here is the correct wire harness for it and all the corresponding part numbers.
Hopefully it will help in some small way.

 

[mcprp]

You don't need the HD relay. You essentially already have one. It's the solenoid mounted on the starter.

Has anyone else looked over their shoulder to see if Candid Camera is watching?

It’s a long complicated story that I didn’t want to have to tell just to bore you but what happened is I burned up a starter . Now with hindsight the reason is probably because it was aftermarket . So at first I wondered why the starter burned up . After getting home and looking at the wire diagram I saw that it shows a generator . So I thought that it may have burned up because it wasn’t wired right. So I bought a voltage regulator and attempted to wire it like the schematic which would not work because it is an alternator . By that time I did get all the wires mixed up . Anyway enough of all that . I word in my new key switch and wired everything just the way you guys told me and everything works perfect . Now that you showed me the hd relay , I do have one . It’s wired from the starter + to the exhaust manifold for the glow plug. I do not have push button start , I have key switch. And now I have a brand new key switch and new wiring. Very simple project when you know a basic ignition system which I obviously did not . It’s all done now so I thank everyone very much and sorry for the confusion . I tried to explain it as easy as I could .

 

[mcprp]

this would have never happened if case updated theyre wire schematic for the dozer i have . ridiculous ! this the hd relay i have that ties into the exhaust manifold .

 

[mcprp]

The 450 has a push button switch. It is wired between the key switch and the starter solenoid.
The starter is a plain ole Delco-Remy.
There is no need for an hd relay to be added in the starting circuit. The switches in the system are adequate for the electrical loads put on them. If they are oem equivalent. The push button can be eliminated by replacing the OEM key switch with one that has a start position in it. I have done this myself.
I don't understand how this got so complicated. The photo of the engine clearly shows the alternator wires in place. The starter is missing but the wires are hanging there waiting to be reconnected.
Did the harness get altered after the photo was taken ?

no I replaced the key switch and got mixed up there

 

[Delmer]

If it works, we're all happy, these threads teeter on the edge of going into the abyss sometimes, we're all glad when they don't.

That's the intake manifold and you have a heater to help with cold starts in there, most likely. It's good to have if you need it in an emergency, or if you need a little help to get it to fire off some cold morning. A block heater is much better though, if you plan to use this thing in cold temps.

 

[Tinkerer]

Quote "no I replaced the key switch and got mixed up there"
Now this whole thing is beginning to make sense.https://www.heavyequipmentforums.com/posts/825925/edit
You would not have bored anyone as to what happened.
Actually, that was crucial information we needed to help you.
Is there any reason that you cannot remove that voltage regulator and restore the wiring back to the original configuration ??

 

[mcprp]

If it works, we're all happy, these threads teeter on the edge of going into the abyss sometimes, we're all glad when they don't.

That's the intake manifold and you have a heater to help with cold starts in there, most likely. It's good to have if you need it in an emergency, or if you need a little help to get it to fire off some cold morning. A block heater is much better though, if you plan to use this thing in cold temps.

Yes exactly . I do have a plug for the engine also . Thanks again so much !

 

[mcprp]

You would not have bored anyone as to what happened.
Actually, that was crucial information we needed to help you.
Is there any reason that you cannot remove that voltage regulator and restore the wiring back to the original configuration ??

Yes that’s what I did !

 

[mcprp]

Yes that’s what I did !

Well I learned a lesson with the after market starter . Again the hard way but that’s my life . I ended up getting a used delco remy. Case wanted 380.00 they’re prices are ridiculous. I get parts now from a junk yard in Illinois. They have been really fair.its called Schaefer enterprise .

 

[Tinkerer]

this would have never happened if case updated theyre wire schematic for the dozer i have . ridiculous ! this the hd relay i have that ties into the exhaust manifold . View attachment 200123

That is an air heater on the intake manifold to aid in cold weather starting ! It has it's own HD relay because it draws a lot of amps when it is in use. Do Not alter the way it was wired originally !!

 

[mcprp]

That is an air heater on the intake manifold to aid in cold weather starting ! It has it's own HD relay because it draws a lot of amps when it is in use. Do Not alter the way it was wired originally !! no i didnt . and dont plan to thanks !

 

[Tinkerer]

Good on the heater wiring .
Never ever use it and ether at the same time or very bad things will happen.

 

[mcprp]

Well I learned a lesson with the after market starter . Again the hard way but that’s my life . I ended up getting a used delco remy. Case wanted 380.00 they’re prices are ridiculous. I get parts now from a junk yard in Illinois. They have been really fair.its called Schaefer enterprise .

I don’t want to start a whole big thing here but I do have a question . When I run my dozer for say a couple hours the engine tempeture reaches 230f that’s when I just shut her down and I’m done . But my question is do you think I might need a new radiator . It just seems to me that if everything was working right it should never get that hot .

 

[mcprp]

I don’t want to start a whole big thing here but I do have a question . When I run my dozer for say a couple hours the engine tempeture reaches 230f that’s when I just shut her down and I’m done . But my question is do you think I might need a new radiator . It just seems to me that if everything was working right it should never get that hot .

I know the manual says it can get that hot but don’t let it get any hotter

 

[mcprp]

I know the manual says it can get that hot but don’t let it get any hotter

. Is this normal ?

 

[mcprp]

I changed the thermostat and that helped a lot . It used to get hot after an hour

 

[Tinkerer]

Is the radiator cap holding pressure ?
Idle the engine several minutes before shutting it off.
There is no guarantee your temp. gauge is accurate. The coolant temp. needs to be checked with a thermometer or infrared gun and compare that to the gauge reading.
To answer your question about 230° -- no that is hotter than normal.

 

[mcprp]

Is the radiator cap holding pressure ?
Idle the engine several minutes before shutting it off.
There is no guarantee your temp. gauge is accurate. The coolant temp. needs to be checked with a thermometer or infrared gun and compare that to the gauge reading.
To answer your question about 230° -- no that is hotter than normal.

The cap seems to be holding pressure . There is no evidence of any leaks . Maybe it needs to be flushed. It seems to be the original radiator . Which would make it 44 years old . Maybe I should just get a new one. The gauge seems to be pretty accurate because when it starts to reach 230 and I shut it down I can hear it sizzle which tells me it is to hot . I will try to do what you said though . I do have one of those guns . . Why would the service manual say that it could reach that tempeture though . It does say don’t let it get any hotter.

 

[mcprp]

The cap seems to be holding pressure . There is no evidence of any leaks . Maybe it needs to be flushed. It seems to be the original radiator . Which would make it 44 years old . Maybe I should just get a new one. The gauge seems to be pretty accurate because when it starts to reach 230 and I shut it down I can hear it sizzle which tells me it is to hot . I will try to do what you said though . I do have one of those guns . . Why would the service manual say that it could reach that tempeture though . It does say don’t let it get any hotter.

I do have to clarify that it does run at a tad over 180 but after about two hours it reaches 230 after an hour it starts to reach 210 and then at the end of two hours it starts to get to close to 230 that’s when I shut her down. The engine runs beautiful .

 

[Delmer]

Don't let it get to 230, stop at 210 and let it idle at medium speed, it should cool down to under 200 in a few minutes, if it doesn't, then something is wrong. As long as the level is correct and you're not losing fluid, it's fine to run it hot, but don't keep doing that because something is wrong.

Don't replace a radiator without figuring out what is wrong first. You can take the temps of the thermostat housing going to the radiator, then the water pump housing coming back from the radiator, and a couple spots on the head, while the engine is as hot as you get it. Those temps will tell you/us what is wrong, or narrow it down a little at least.

Or you can clean the radiator, if you think it's clean then put a light on one side and look through from the other side.