CASE 450 . DIESEL

[alrman]

The "front" cover is at the front of the transmission - hence the need to remove it for repairs.
It weighs over 1 ton; the machine needs to be raised & the transmission is lowered out from under the machine towards the rear.
The transmission needs to be on it's back with the front cover facing skywards for most of the repair procedure.

There is some special tooling required to overhaul these. Everything can be made, as with anything mechanical, there is a great deal of things to get wrong during reassembly.

• Pinion depth is critical - tool required
• Clutch packs need to be pressure tested before installation - tool required
• Shaft end floats need to be measured - tool required

The service manual lists all the tools you will require - forget about trying to buy the tools, they don't exist - best bet is find someone that has them.
Exchange transmissions, if you could find one which I doubt, will cost 2-3 times than what the machine is worth.

First thing you need to do is the simple pressure test I described above, take particular note of where the pressure loss / delays are & let us know.

As much as I like to help people, I don't really fancy talking you through a transmission rebuild over the internet.....

 

[mcprp]

The "front" cover is at the front of the transmission - hence the need to remove it for repairs.
It weighs over 1 ton; the machine needs to be raised & the transmission is lowered out from under the machine towards the rear.
The transmission needs to be on it's back with the front cover facing skywards for most of the repair procedure.

There is some special tooling required to overhaul these. Everything can be made, as with anything mechanical, there is a great deal of things to get wrong during reassembly.

• Pinion depth is critical - tool required
• Clutch packs need to be pressure tested before installation - tool required
• Shaft end floats need to be measured - tool required

The service manual lists all the tools you will require - forget about trying to buy the tools, they don't exist - best bet is find someone that has them.
Exchange transmissions, if you could find one which I doubt, will cost 2-3 times than what the machine is worth.

First thing you need to do is the simple pressure test I described above, take particular note of where the pressure loss / delays are & let us know.

As much as I like to help people, I don't really fancy talking you through a transmission rebuild over the internet.....

 

[mcprp]

Thank you so much Alrman . That’s all I wanted was your honest opinion . Once again you have been a great help . Like I said it’s been getting me through a lot of good work so I’ll take the best care of it I can and just see what I can get out of it . I really don’t see the big deal that I steer with the brakes . It works good for me and I have never had a reason to take it out of low speed so I’ll leave well enough alone for now . It works pretty darn good besides not steering with the the hy low shifters . Lol . Does everything I want it to do . I was actually quite happy with it until coy told me I should steer with the hy low shifters . I just didn’t know that .

 

[Coy Lancaster]

Ufortunately there is only one way to access the internal workings of the 450 trans and that is to pull it out and lay it on its back to remove clutches and shafts.

 

[mcprp]

Yeah it’s no problem , it’s working good for me . Fixed a leak on the control valve today . Seemed funny , the elbow was loose but how did it get loose because the hose is attached to it . Lol . I took the hose fitting off and got three full turns out of it . I think the left clutch pack is bad because today I was able to steer it with the control levers but it won’t go right with the levers . Transmission pressure stays at a little over 200 all the time .

 

[mcprp]

The "front" cover is at the front of the transmission - hence the need to remove it for repairs.
It weighs over 1 ton; the machine needs to be raised & the transmission is lowered out from under the machine towards the rear.
The transmission needs to be on it's back with the front cover facing skywards for most of the repair procedure.

There is some special tooling required to overhaul these. Everything can be made, as with anything mechanical, there is a great deal of things to get wrong during reassembly.

• Pinion depth is critical - tool required
• Clutch packs need to be pressure tested before installation - tool required
• Shaft end floats need to be measured - tool required

The service manual lists all the tools you will require - forget about trying to buy the tools, they don't exist - best bet is find someone that has them.
Exchange transmissions, if you could find one which I doubt, will cost 2-3 times than what the machine is worth.

First thing you need to do is the simple pressure test I described above, take particular note of where the pressure loss / delays are & let us know.

As much as I like to help people, I don't really fancy talking you through a transmission rebuild over the internet.....

 

[mcprp]

So I just want to respond to your post where you said pay particular attention to the hydraulic pressure loss when shifting . As I stated in my post , the hydraulic pressure stays system at 200 all the time, even when shifting . The torque converter pressure stays at about 35 I think but when I shift the left hy low shifter either to hy or low , I notice the torque converter pressure goes down to zero quickly and then jumps back up . Does this give you any insight on what could be happening ?

 

[mcprp]

This does not happen when shifting the right hy low lever . On another note the torque converter stays in the green as it should

 

[mcprp]

This does not happen when shifting the right hy low lever . On another note the torque converter stays in the green as it should

 

[mcprp]

nothing ?

 

[alrman]

200psi sounds low, is that even with full RPM?
The test needs to be done at operating temp & at engine idle - minimum oil flow from the pump.

You do realise that Australia is a completely different time zone & that people may need to go out to work for a living & have to sleep for a while......
Patience @mcprp ...... post your questions & wait, they'll be seen

 

[mcprp]

200psi sounds low, is that even with full RPM?
The test needs to be done at operating temp & at engine idle - minimum oil flow from the pump.

You do realise that Australia is a completely different time zone & that people may need to go out to work for a living & have to sleep for a while......
Patience @mcprp ...... post your questions & wait, they'll be seen

 

[mcprp]

The tests I did were after the dozer was warmed up good and at idle speed . It might be 225 but not any higher . The needle is a hair over 200 . Yes alrman I realize that . The nothing I posted was not directed specifically at you . Just any response from anyone . I think I’m becoming more annoying on this site than it’s worth . Sorry about that . I also think the bottom line is I’ll just have to get it somewhere to have a pressure test on it . Pretty sure I have a Bad left hy low clutch pack . The torque converter could be worn also . You told me to let you know when I shifted both sides what happen to the pressure so I posted it . Hydraulic pressure stays the same , torque converter pressure drops to 0 and jumps back up on left side . Right side stays the same .

 

[mcprp]

It jumps a hair when full throttle . I think it at 200 at idle and jumps a hair at full rpm but that’s all .

 

[alrman]

Yes, the system pressure is low - it should be 275 at full RPM at operating temp. But that would need to be confirmed with a test gauge.

What about any delay when you pull LH & RH levers into low & then into high?
Do both sides engage at the same time & with the same amount of "clunk"

 

[mcprp]

Neither side clunks I think . The only time it clunks is forward reverse . I’ll have to check tomorrow . One thought on the transmission pressure is I did not use case transmission fluid . I used this .

 

[alrman]

Hmmmm..... It shouldn't really bother it too much, But I don't like the idea of running synthetic based oils in transmissions that are 50yrs old.
Case specifies a 10w transmission oil, but here everyone runs a 30W oil because of our high temps & lack of white winter - (that's old school mineral oil)

 

[mcprp]

So low Tran pressure . Probably from a few small leaks at?

 

[mcprp]

I meant to type ayyy? Not at ?

 

[mcprp]

Anyway it all boils down to pressure tests . I don’t want to waste anymore of your time . The tests will tell all