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Best way to remove old pads from chains
- Thread starter ktm250rider
- Start date
Welder Dave
Senior Member
The topic has been discussed before. I think a reamer may be better than a drill bit but might have to do a little from each side. If you knew a shop that had an ironworker they could punch them.
https://www.heavyequipmentforums.com/threads/drilling-track-pads-tooling.54502/
https://www.heavyequipmentforums.com/threads/drilling-track-pads-tooling.54502/
Tugger2
Senior Member
I would never put something like that in my Ironworker way too hard ,and very difficult to keep centered. A reamer running slow with cutting fluid maybe. We have drilled them before with good success. Slow speed ,steady pressure on the bit and cutting oil. A bit of a flat ground on the cutting edge of the bit to reduce the hook will keep the bit from grabbing as it breaks thru.I can put you in touch with the machinist that works in my shop if you want to carry on with this ,hes good at drilling stuff like this.
ktm250rider
Well-Known Member
I got a bridge reamer coming later this week, as well as a cobalt drill bit.
Is it safe to say, the smaller bolts wont work. It's a farm machine, but I dont want shaky pads in 3 years.
Is it safe to say, the smaller bolts wont work. It's a farm machine, but I dont want shaky pads in 3 years.
Welder Dave
Senior Member
Make sure to sand all paint and crud off both the pads and the rails. They have to be perfectly flat. Don't just tighten the bolts with an impact. Use the torque turn method. 5/8" track bolts are 130 ft./lbs. +- 30 ft./lbs. initial torque with an additional 1/3 turn.
https://www.barloworld-equipment.com/media/3946114/pegp5027-06.pdf
https://www.barloworld-equipment.com/media/3946114/pegp5027-06.pdf
ktm250rider
Well-Known Member
My manual shows 282 ft lbs +/- 10%
ktm250rider
Well-Known Member
Oh yes, paint will be ground off. I had a whole assembly line setup with my kids and then it all ended on the first pad.
Ugghhh, I've been waiting to get these fixed for 5 years. Finally get to it and I'm stuck again.
Ugghhh, I've been waiting to get these fixed for 5 years. Finally get to it and I'm stuck again.
Nige
Senior Member
You'll get more consistent bolt tension by torquing them to a lower initial figure then turning 120 degrees. The problem with track shoe bolts is that often the surface that they are pulling down to is nowhere near 100% flat and that will affect the torque required to turn the bolt and thus crack off the torque wrench.
5/8" diameter track shoe bolts on a Cat machine would be tightened to the specs quoted above by Welder Dave. Also SAE30 oil would be applied under the bolt head and on the threads.
Does your manual recommend putting a dab of anti-seize or some type of oil under the head of the bolts and on the threads before assembling..? Use (or not) of lubricant can also majorly affect the final tighness of the bolted joint.
Welder Dave
Senior Member
Is this a final torque number specific for track bolts or just 5/8" bolts in general? The torque turn method is the best for track bolts. If the bolts come loose they will never stay tight again.
ktm250rider
Well-Known Member
It's the actual spec for the pad. Oh and it's only a 9/16 bolt. Which I apparently never realized until I went to reinstall.
Welder Dave
Senior Member
282 ft./lbs. seems really high for 9/16" bolts.
Nige
Senior Member
Sorry I understood it that you were going to open up the holes on the track shoes and use 5/8” bolts, so that’s what I quoted specs for. If you use 9/16” hardware the initial torque would be 90 ft. lbs, again plus 120 degrees.
Welder Dave
Senior Member
His rails are 5/8" but the pads only have 9/16" holes he has to enlarge. Cat standard specs. for 9/16" bolts looks to be 190 to 210 ft./lbs. This is on a Hyundai so wondering if the OP is converting everything from metric to standard? Could see where you could run into problems mixing and matching hardware.
Last edited:
ktm250rider
Well-Known Member
Sorry for the confusion.
Old bolts were 9/16 and shown as 9/16 in the manual. It's weird, everything else is metric, but the pad bolts. New chains are 5/8. I didnt notice the difference until trying to install the pads.
Probably could have ordered the correct stuff, but didnt realize.
Old bolts were 9/16 and shown as 9/16 in the manual. It's weird, everything else is metric, but the pad bolts. New chains are 5/8. I didnt notice the difference until trying to install the pads.
Probably could have ordered the correct stuff, but didnt realize.
Welder Dave
Senior Member
Your original post mentioned metric sizes.
ktm250rider
Well-Known Member
Yeah. I even bought a special 22mm socket to try to break the bolts off originally. Thinking its gotta be metric. I mean why not. Everything else is.
John C.
Senior Member
It seems kind of funny but all the undercarriage components I've worked with in the 40 years were all Imperial measurements. Chain pitches are 7", 7.5", 8", 9" and so on. Pad widths have changed to metric. There are plenty of 800 MM and 850 MM three bar track pads on excavators.
As far as pad bolt torque methods go, both ways were used. Cat was the only manufacturer to use torque turn for years. The rest of the dozers that I had to do track work on just used torque. I had a welding instructor years ago that told us about working on bridges and how all the bolts were torqued into the yield point of the bolt. It was his position that pad bolts are the same. That is the point that the bolt has the maximum amount of holding power. It is also the reason you are not supposed to re-use pad bolts. As far as what is right goes, do what the manufacturer of the bolt specifies.
As far as pad bolt torque methods go, both ways were used. Cat was the only manufacturer to use torque turn for years. The rest of the dozers that I had to do track work on just used torque. I had a welding instructor years ago that told us about working on bridges and how all the bolts were torqued into the yield point of the bolt. It was his position that pad bolts are the same. That is the point that the bolt has the maximum amount of holding power. It is also the reason you are not supposed to re-use pad bolts. As far as what is right goes, do what the manufacturer of the bolt specifies.
Nige
Senior Member
Good spot. 14mm was the bolt size originally mentioned. I wonder if the holes in the new links are actually designed for 16mm bolts and the hardware has been metric all long..?
Either way 16mm is only a few thousandths larger than 5/8". At that sort of diameter the only major difference is the pitch. 5/8" is 2.3mm pitch (11 TPI), 16mm is 1.5mm pitch. So M16 could be classed as a signficantly finer thread than 5/8" UNC and that could make a big difference in the tightening specification.
John C.
Senior Member
A 9/16" bolt, 0.56" is actually a little thicker and a 14MM bolt, .55". As I recall a 16MM bolt is the same as a 5/8" bolt both at .66". As far as thread pitch goes, again as I recall, you can spec any of four different thread pitches for any metric bolt.
Welder Dave
Senior Member
5/8" is .625" and 16mm is .629" but should be close enough for the hole they go through. I don't think anyone has more experience with undercarriage than Cat so would use the torque turn method myself. I paid a couple hundred extra to have the track shop put the pads on in the track press using the torque turn method. Then cleaned everything up and it was just easier and saved me a lot of time for not too much more $$.