Best way to remove old pads from chains

[ktm250rider]

So, Im finally breaking down and replacing the chains on my excavator. The pads are in good shape so those are going onto the new chains, so i need to remove ~400 bolts. So far just for giggles i tried a 1/2" impact wrench. Yeah that did nothing. I also tried a 1/2" breaker bar going with the snap the head procedure, yeah that didnt work. I was worried the breaker bar was going to turn into a boomerang. I have an old IR electric 1" impact wrench coming from my brother. Its old! From what i can find, its 750 ftlbs of torque. Not sure if that will be enough to break the pad bolts. I hope it will free up the sprocket bolts at the least.
I think the best option for the pads is to cut off the bolts. However, i dont have any cutting equipment. Ive been putting off too long so i need to buy something. Torch set would certainly do it, but what about a plasma cutter? I have a lot of projects that a plasma would be great, instead of using a cut off wheel.
This is a farm machine and i dont need to get the pads cut off all at once. I was thinking of maybe doing a couple each day over the winter.

 

[Trashman]

Buy the plasma cutter, as you said "I have a lot of projects that a plasma would be great".

 

[lumberjack]

Plasma for the win. You’ll be happy long after you forget what you paid for it.

 

[John C.]

You don't mention the size of the excavator nor the size of the bolts you are working with. By far the fastest method is a great big impact and heavy sockets to take them loose. On medium to large size excavator the bolts are installed by the torque turn method. You generally turn them to a certain torque, say 250 foot pounds, and then turn them an additional two flats of the bolt head. The problem most people run into with this method is the nuts drop out of the landings on the inside of the chain links and start turning with the bolt. We have made wedges to pound in under the nuts to hole them in the landings and prevent them from turning.
Many people burn off the bolt heads and remove the pads. The problem with that is they also put cut paths in the pad which many times cause the bolts to come loose when installed on another chain. When I use the cutting torch, I burn the nuts off making two cuts. I burn off one side and then the other a break the pieces off. The bolt can then be knocked out without damaging the pad. I've never used a plasma cutter for this, basically because those require electricity and an electric machine out in the weather. My questions about the machine would be is it any faster and any cheaper in consumable costs. I can do a couple of sets of tracks with standard bottles on a cutting torch.

 

[ktm250rider]

Thanks all, i like the plasma approach. Machine is a Hyundai R130LC3. Bolts are 14mm (22mm socket head size). The nut is square and not captured. From what i understand, putting a crowbar between the nut and chain holds the nut from turning. Again, no rush to do it so if its raining Ill sit and watch TV.

 

[Bls repair]

I use old school torch the nuts off method

 

[Mbar]

As the others said. Torch the bolt heads off. Like John said careful not to cut the pad. Hit the bottom of the pads with a hammer. If your replacing bottom rollers also it’s a good idea to run a tap in the bolt holes. Very least cut a notch in threads on a spare bolt to chase the threads. Not any fun to have a bolt broke in the bottom of a roller frame

 

[Bls repair]

That’s why I cut the nuts off ,won’t hurt the pads.

 

[92U 3406]

Fastest way I found is get a decent 1" gun. My 1/2" makes more torque than the 1" you're borrowing. Get something in the neighbourhood of 1,500 - 2,000 lb-ft. On the bolts that it won't break free, torch the nuts off. When I do tracks solo, I stick a prybar between the chain and nut and hold the nut in place while I zip it up with a small impact. I come back after all the pads are zipped up and torque them down.

 

[RZucker]

My usual weapon of choice is the impact (Big), when that fails I prefer a scarfing tip or the old school rivet washing tip on the torch for the bolt head. With a bit of practice you will never gouge a pad. I hate cutting the nut end because of the spray back.

 

[colson04]

My usual weapon of choice is the impact (Big), when that fails I prefer a scarfing tip or the old school rivet washing tip on the torch for the bolt head. With a bit of practice you will never gouge a pad. I hate cutting the nut end because of the spray back.

I just learned what a scarfing tip is last week. Seems like the right application for one.

 

[Nige]

Best way - get someone else to do it......!!
Can you get hold of a pneumatic HyTorc or something similar..? Those things are the mutt's nuts when it comes to getting track pad bolts off.

 

[colson04]

Best way - get someone else to do it......!!
Can you get hold of a pneumatic HyTorc or something similar..? Those things are the mutt's nuts when it comes to getting track pad bolts off.
View attachment 205560

Holy crap, $1200 for a used eBay one, looks like over $5000 new?! How big a of compressor do you need to run one of these guys?

 

[Nige]

Air requirement is really low. Best comparison I can make is that they’re like an air-driven torque multiplier.

 

[92U 3406]

Holy crap, $1200 for a used eBay one, looks like over $5000 new?! How big a of compressor do you need to run one of these guys?

I was just using a 3/4" drive one the other day to torque up D8 master pads. Don't really use a ton of air from how it sounded. There are a bunch of planetary reduction gearsets inside the tool that give it that high torque output.

 

[colson04]

Can you change the preset torque limit on them? Like if you change from one job to another that has a different torque spec, or do they come with a single preset torque limit?



Update: I looked it up on youtube. I've never seen one of these before, interesting setup.

 

[92U 3406]

You just adjust the air pressure at the regulator. I don't know exactly how accurate the gauge is though. We have a digital torque measuring thing set up in our shop that we use to verify the torque output.

Personally I like the pneumatic gun better than the hydraulic one. Hydraulic one is more compact but its slower and you need a power source, which isn't always easy to find out in the boonies. I'm not too fond of being near hydraulic hoses that have up to 10,000 PSI in them either.

 

[Nige]

Like 92U said, all done with the air pressure regulator. Each tool comes with a chart relating air pressure to applied torque. Set the regulator to the pressure corresponding the torque you want to achieve and have at it. If I had to I'd say the tool maybe uses less than 20cfm when the trigger is pressed.

EDIT: I checked the data sheet and the required supply is a minimum of 30cfm @ 90psi.

 

[petepilot]

2 cents worth. a plasma cutter for beheading bolts imho is not the way to go` tip is usually to big around to get a square cut

 

[Vetech63]

If your careful and skilled with a cutting torch, you can cut the bolt heads with very little to zero pad damage.