New-to-Me 1845C -- questions, etc

[Dmoneyallstar]

Just picked up a Case 1845c locally for regular farm/residential putzing around. Will mainly be a forklift for moving a 1/2-ton or less. I know these things are as tough as nails, but you never know who owned one nor what they did and how they treated it. ANYONE RECOGNIZE HER? Bought it in SE MICHIGAN.

Almost walked away when the guy tried to tell me a bogus year plus it left a trail of hydraulic fluid behind it. Got in my truck to drive away and the guy made me an offer I couldn't refuse. Sold. OMG, what did I do?? <genuflect> haaaa

VIN #: JAF0067XXX Any confirmation on a model year? I'm guessing 88-90. The ignorant seller tried to tell me it was a 2001-02, LOL. Also has the yellow chassis with brown cab and earlier "block" decals on arms. Plus...they stopped production in 2000.

Can I call a Case dealer and see if the VIN is in their system for service/sales history? Call it a DIY "carfax" approach.

Got it home. Hydraulic leak was just a loose aux hose. The aux control valve is frozen, so I'm guessing someone was wrenching on it and didn't tighten that line. Topped off fluids and off she went doing some light lifting and normal driving around the yard. Engine bay is very clean and proper. Filters are all newer Donaldson or Case brand.

Tilt hinge pins are a tad loose, but it IS a 4.5k hr machine. However the hourmeter (which works) says 1.6k. I'm guessing it doesn't actually keep proper time, or, it's a replacement gage cluster. The prev owner wrote the oil change hours and date in the engine bay (4.5k done last week). Everything on the gage cluster plus lights work fine.

Diesel fires right up & purrs. Drive is smooth and it tracks straight. No creep or drift. No noises. Radiator has a pin-hole leak right at the filler neck, but only air (above fluid level).

Loader & hand controls work smooth. Right side safety latch is a little stiff, plus I think I can hear the right e-brake pin slipping past the brake holes. Plan to cleanup the pan and adjust. I know a hose is pressing on the cables. Right tilt cylinder is a little tweaked but works and doesn't leak.

Nice newer seat. Cab in good shape.

72" big bucket has a few patches. Needs a few more. I'll prob buy a new low-profile bucket. Quick-attach works as it should.

Needs a new front tire, as it's not holding air and only about 15% tread left. They replaced the front right with new wheel & tire, but front left is an older tire on an original wheel.

Been painted, but could use some sprucing. Last on my priority list.


ANY SUGGESTIONS for specific things to look for? Known issues? Low-hanging fruit?


Like I said, this machine is for my home shop mainly as a fork lift and probably clearing my 6k sf driveway in winter. My little Ford 1210 loader tractor was too little for much lifting.

Wish me luck!

 

[kshansen]

I know you are aware of the parking brake pin needing adjusting but that would be very important to get right be fore you move again! If that happened to pop into one of the hole while traveling it can cause major frame damage, I seen what that looks like, not good!

As for the age I'm sure a dealer could give you a build date with the complete S/N. That said where I worked we had S/N JAF0039895 and that was a 1989 machine. So yours is a bit newer than that. Say 1990-91? Just a guess!

It does look like a good machine. I was going to say you got took and I'd be a "Nice Guy" and take it off your hands but don't have a trailer to haul it on so guess you can keep it!

 

[Dmoneyallstar]

I know you are aware of the parking brake pin needing adjusting but that would be very important to get right be fore you move again! If that happened to pop into one of the hole while traveling it can cause major frame damage, I seen what that looks like, not good!

Good grief, I didn't even think about that! Any pointers for the adjustment? Only seems to make the pin-knock when I've got weight on the loader.

I've worked around ag tractors and trucks plus I'm a hydraulics engineer, but this is my 1st skid steer. Mechanics I've worked with have always preferred the 1845c, hence why I picked one up.

Also...I don't exactly have the trailer for this thing either. Brought it home on my 7k car hauler with brakes on both axles. Hauled easy. Only a 45min drive.

 

[Dmoneyallstar]

The right-foot side parking pin is stuck. Cable, pulley and linkage aren't bound-- its the pin in the hole. Soaking it with PB Blaster.

 

[kshansen]

The right-foot side parking pin is stuck. Cable, pulley and linkage aren't bound-- its the pin in the hole. Soaking it with PB Blaster.

I believe there is a spring in the linkage someplace that allows you to put the lever in the release position then when you move the machine a little in each direction to take pressure of the pin it will pop out of the hole in the big gear. I know they are not in an easy place to work on them but if you can pull the rubber boot that should be over the hole the pin is in you may be lucky and get the PB Blaster to do some good.

The other option might be to slide the cab assembly forward and remove one or both the chain box covers so you can better see what you are doing. If you don't have the operators manual, it should be in a box located somewhere in the cab area I would try to get one someplace either online or from the dealer. There is a simple step by step instruction on how to slide the cab forward and on the 1845C that makes things 100% easier to work on. If I was still working at the quarry I'd scan those pages in for you!

 

[Dmoneyallstar]

Oh man, i think i lucked out! I had thought i moved the girl and set the brake with the bucket, but it wasnt enough to release the pin. I inched her forward and voila...both pins move freely.

The left vertical link (operates right brake pin) needed adjusted / shortened to give more yank. The little pulley wheel was full of crud and stuck - no spin. I removed the link and shortened it on the bottom end about 1/2". And then loosened the pulley's bolta 1/2-turn and rinsed her with some PB Blaster. Put it all back together.

Now getting full yank on left safety arm and linkage, pin coming all the way out. Pulleys spinning freely. Both handle latches moving freely. Took unit for a spin and no more clicking pin. The sound it WAS making...if you've ever used a garage lift and has a safety latch that "clicks" every couple inches...but not nearly as loud. Just enough to hear and also feel through the chassis.

THANK YOU for your help. I do love a forum with folks eager to help!! =)

Also snagged a set of fuel filters (next item to tackle for my next episode).

-Dan

 

[Ronsii]

Another thing to check is for cracks near the pins on top/sides of the tanks, they like to crack and let water in... unfortunately the fresh paint will hide cracks that were there before the paint job.

 

[kshansen]

Now getting full yank on left safety arm and linkage, pin coming all the way out. Pulleys spinning freely. Both handle latches moving freely. Took unit for a spin and no more clicking pin. The sound it WAS making...if you've ever used a garage lift and has a safety latch that "clicks" every couple inches...but not nearly as loud. Just enough to hear and also feel through the chassis.
-Dan

Dan sounds like you got it under control!
Like I said an owners manual would be helpful, has most of the day to day maintenance information you would need.

Another thing that might be helpful is to take some time to look at the parts info Case has online

https://partstore.caseih.com/us/parts-search.html#epc::mr52343ag39140

I think that link shold take you to the page on the 1845C. there are many options shown there but with a little digging you should get a better idea of what the machine is built like.

Now if the former owner(s) were nice they would have left the operators manual in the box for it behind the seat in one of the two different places shown in picture below.


The lower on in the picture would be mounted up above on the underside of the ROPS canopy.

 

[sims]

Danl
I would ask the PO if they added HTO to the hydraulic system. After P.I.N. JAF0067438 it is required. Your unit looks good. Good luck
SimS

 

[Dmoneyallstar]

Thanks for the info, KS. I doubt they left me a manual, plus I haven't seen any little treasure boxes while crawling around it.

Definitely planning to drain & replace the engine & hydraulic oils before I do any real work. I don't trust PO's and their decisions esp. on trade-in equipment. Hydraulic oil will def include the HTO. The PO has "10w40" written below the hydraulic filler neck. And remember...the guy I bought it from was the dealer who took it on trade. Not only do I not have a clue who the original owner was, but I also do not trust the dealer/seller guy.

Now if I could just go back in time and tighten that aux hydraulic hose BEFORE I drove the unit off my trailer and across my yard. Nice dead yellow 4" wide stripe in my grass, lol. Don't tell the EPA.

 

[Dmoneyallstar]

The HTO...from what I've read (beating a dead horse here) this is the magic added to regular 10w30/40 engine oil to make it perform like a hydraulic oil (i.e. high pressure, high temps, 8-10hr days, etc).

I've got my own theories on it all. In my personal opinion with 20yr in the pass-car & heavy duty filtration & hydraulics industries...I'm not gonna take a swing at that dead-horse pinata.

I'm just gonna' keep using what this machine has been used to seeing, which is 10w40 (plus an additive). At 4.5k hours she's doing what she's told without any problems.

 

[phil314]

My 1845c is serial JAF00406XX and it's a late 89 from what I know, just for reference.

If you can, it's probably a good idea to park it inside. The chain case covers tend to crack and with the open cab, they tend to get water in the chain cases easily. Something to keep an eye on. And other than the parking brake, they don't usually have a lot of problems. Just be glad you didn't get the early model with the spaghetti noodle quicktach handles.

 

[jacobd]

x2 on the HTO and parking somewhere dry. As I understand it the HTO is an extreme pressure additive that helps protect the orbital motors from wear. It wasn't required on early machines because they used piston motors. Also a good idea to pick up the back end and check for play in the wheel bearings. Those are a commonly worn item on 1845C's

 

[phil314]

If your drive motors look like this, you've got plantery gears. They take 80w/90 gear oil and you don't need HTO.
Nobody told me about them when I first got my machine, lucky they weren't leaking.

 

[kshansen]

If you can, it's probably a good idea to park it inside. The chain case covers tend to crack and with the open cab, they tend to get water in the chain cases easily. Something to keep an eye on.

Yes good point to keep an eye on those four chain case covers. They can get cracked, often from someone getting to strong tightening the bolt in the center down.

Do any of you other 1845C people have a copy of the owners manual? I'm sure Dmoneyallstar would appreciate having some pages scanned in. Me I would like to see him have the pages on sliding the cab assembly forward. Doing that makes working on things 1,000% easier!

If no one has a copy I might be able to talk nice to my old boss and get the one from the 1845C they have, or at least did have when I retired in 2015! I'd scan it in and post it here.

 

[sims]

Dan
PM me
SimS

 

[Ronsii]

Don't remember if I got books with mine or not.... only gave a couple grand for it as a project to get to one of these days but it still has old original paint and rust.. and a few other problems... but I did drive it on the trailer!!!

I'll have to do a bit of searching for the books... I wish I was more organized.

 

[phil314]

Do any of you other 1845C people have a copy of the owners manual? I'm sure Dmoneyallstar would appreciate having some pages scanned in.

I wouldn't mind a copy either. So far I've been figuring stuff out the hard way.

 

[kshansen]

Right out front I have nothing in this just did a Google search and this was one of the first things to pop up.

I'm almost afraid to suggest someone buy this as I got in a fix on this site for recommending "Buying a Manual" for a machine in another thread. Just know if I owned an 1845C this manual would not be available as it would be in the mail to me!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/CASE-1845C...8279?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c1#viTabs_0

And I would add this one to my shopping list:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Case-1845C...ual-Owners-Maintenance-Book-NEW-/172078984452

Sometimes Service Manuals do not include things that are in Operator'owner manuals so having both would be my personal choice. As far as parts manuals, while nice to have a paper copy in hand the link to Case I posted above is easy to use and it's free!

 

[Dmoneyallstar]

Good news is that the PO did leave the Operator and Safety manuals in the little plastic tote. I didn't even realize it was there to be honest, ha.