michigan 75a wheel loader

[Komatsu 150]

Well komatsu I talked to a guy that is local and he has two 75a's and I think I'm gonna buy them both. So I guess I'm gonna start my own fleet of 75s. If its alright with you I would like your help to get both of them up and running also. One has a blown motor and the other has drive line issues. Then again I might just fix two and have one for parts. I have not seen eather so I do not know the condition they are in.

Sure, happy to help. I like to see the old iron saved. These machines were much unloved at the end of their careers and most were scrapped. An insurance company tried hard to total mine after it was rear ended by a car but I was able to force them to fix it.

 

[Dillpics]

What would it be if I picked it up

 

[Dillpics]

To be honest I like working on the old equipment because its far more simpler. Its also nice to be able to fix something without having to hook the computer to it. In a lot of ways older equipment is probabilly more reliable then the computer controlled machines of today.

 

[Travis2]

What would it be if I picked it up

$750 For Everything If You Come Pick It Up. What State Do You Live In? I Live In Michigan.

 

[Dillpics]

I live in pa near harrisburg.

 

[Travis2]

I live in pa near harrisburg.

If you Want It Delivered It Would Be $1,100

 

[Dillpics]

Hey komatsu I have a question for you. I will have my starter for Friday and will try to get mine running then. What I wanted to know is if you know what plug wire went where on my cap. It was just something I was thinking about. I know having them right would def help. I know I did not move any but I just want to make sure they were on right when I got it. Thanks

 

[oldseabee]

To find where your plug wires go, rotate the engine to TDC compression stroke #1 cyl., pull the cap off and see where the rotor is pointing. That will be #1 plug wire. firing order should be cast into manifold, should be 1-5-3-6-2-4.

 

[Komatsu 150]

I don't have a gas engine so I can't help with that. Don't have any engine books either except operators manual with only the specs in the attachment. The advice to check the manifold is right. Also if you can't find timing mark, I wouldn't be too surprised to find it on flywheel under some access cover. A lot of the old engines were like that.

 

[Dillpics]

Thank you oldseabee that's what I was looking for! Thank you komatsu for the help.

 

[RonG]

Too young,too old,just right.15-36-24.lol.
I was told that many years ago and never forgot it.Ron G

 

[Dillpics]

After putting the new starter in and finding a battery and some jumper cables I got to work trying to start the 75a. First I drained the gas and flushed the line. Still would not start. So I checked for spark and I did not have any at the plugs. So I looked at the points and yep I had it. Cleaned the cap and rotor witch needs replaced and installed new used wires. I found the problem the wire on top of the coil was coroaded very bad, cleaned it and put the new used one on and she fired right up! I love the way it sounds! So komatsu and old seabee I got it running. Thanks for all the help. Also thanks for the timing the 4 and 6 spark plug wires were switched but I have them right now. I have been looking at my book and it shows a parking break, mine does not have one should it? I also see in the wiring diagram it shows a horn that mine is missing! Last it shows rear lights I'm guessing red my work lights re there and there are 2 small oval housing that I'm guessing should be the rear lights. Let me know what you think! Thanks for the help

 

[oldseabee]

Parking brakes are in the front wheel brake assys operated by cables from a control handle to the left of the seat. There has been a change on oil specs. Transmission above 30Deg F prevailing use 30W engine oil, -10 Deg F and up prevailing use 10W engine oil, below that use Dexron ATF (not Dexron II). Hydraulics, above 0 Deg F prevailing use 10W engine oil or C-2 hydraulic oil, -30 Deg F and up use Dexron ATF.

 

[Dillpics]

Can you give me an updated list of all the oils because I intend to replace it all and would like to put in what it calls for!

 

[oldseabee]

Engine Gas 70 Deg F and above 30W type MS, 32 Deg F -70 Deg F 20W, 0 Deg F and below and up to 32 Deg F 10W
Transmission and converter as in my previous post and Hydraulic as above to meet specs API SD or SE, MIL 2104B or MIL 2104C
Diff/planetary 90 W EPGL
Brake master Cyl. Brake fluid dot 3.
Distributor each 50 hours 2 drops 10W on wick under rotor. 500 hours remove plug on side of housing and fill with 20W oil.
Generator and starter 50 hours a few drops 10W oil to oil cups.

 

[Dillpics]

I have 2 questions. Should I be running pump gas in the loader or should I be putting a lead additive in the gas? Also my forward and reverse lever is messed up, when the lever is in neutral the tranny is in forward and when the lever is in reverse the tranny is in neutral. What would you check or do to make it right? Also my manual says how to check the tranny oil level. It sounds to me like it is checked with the engine off but I know I have read on here that it is checked running! Am I right or wrong when I say it is checked running?

 

[oldseabee]

That is 3 questions.
1. Can't answer about the gas, I would think that the lead additive couldn't hurt but may not be needed. Do a Google on the eng. manufacturer, see what you can find.
2. Go down to the transmission control valve, disconnect the linkage from the Fwd/Rev handle, manually shift the transmission to neutral, each position has a detent so you can feel it. When the transmission is in neutral, move the handle to the neutral position, ( You may have to put some sort of clamp to hold it in that position or have a buddy hold it). Now adjust the linkage to the point that it connects back to the transmission Fwd/Rev lever. Adjustments could be at either end of the linkage, you just have to look see.
3. This transmission fluid level is checked with the engine off. Fill it through the converter housing, start the engine and run for a couple of minutes to make sure that the converter is full, shut engine off, wait 5 minutes for oil to drain back then check it again.
The later Clark transmissions fluid level is checked with the engine running.

 

[Komatsu 150]

That is 3 questions.
1. Can't answer about the gas, I would think that the lead additive couldn't hurt but may not be needed. Do a Google on the eng. manufacturer, see what you can find.
2. Go down to the transmission control valve, disconnect the linkage from the Fwd/Rev handle, manually shift the transmission to neutral, each position has a detent so you can feel it. When the transmission is in neutral, move the handle to the neutral position, ( You may have to put some sort of clamp to hold it in that position or have a buddy hold it). Now adjust the linkage to the point that it connects back to the transmission Fwd/Rev lever. Adjustments could be at either end of the linkage, you just have to look see.
3. This transmission fluid level is checked with the engine off. Fill it through the converter housing, start the engine and run for a couple of minutes to make sure that the converter is full, shut engine off, wait 5 minutes for oil to drain back then check it again.
The later Clark transmissions fluid level is checked with the engine running.

The factory changed the original method of checking oil and sent out a service bulletin. It can be dangerous but supposed to be running.

 

[oldseabee]

I did find that bulletin so that is the way to go, with the engine running. Sorry about missing that bulletin first time around. That said, crawling around under a running machine always made me nervous.

 

[Dillpics]

I realize that was 3 questions , I just did not think about the number. Thanks for all the info you two it always helps me a lot. It there any way one of you could send me an email of all the 75a updates?