Old Magnet
Senior Member
There is no way that you can flush out the lube retaining cavities. Just go with the grease you used for now. Any grease is better than no grease.
Does the 00 grease come in a tube for grease gun or in a squeeze tubeThixotropic is the word I was thinking of. I don't know if there's a lot of difference between OO and O grade grease? I think they're both basically pourable grease but also thixotropic. I read the JD corn head grease didn't mix with some other lubes. It was OK to use if you knew what the original lube was or had all the old lube washed out. That's what I was going to use until I read what's at the bottom of this post. This is what I ordered from Napa. You can also get grade OOO grease.
BPXE-A56UZ2.pdf (castrol.com)
Polyurea based grease should not be mixed with oil as they are incompatible (JD cornhead grease is Polyurea based).
Are you able to some how get me a picture. I havent been able to find it anywhere online and no one knows what im talking aboutTube similar to a grease gun tube but has a nozzle with plastic cap on the end. I think using with a grease gun would be too much pressure and blow seals out. Seems to me I used a hammer handle or piece of wood to push the plunger up the tube.
Oh crap im sorryLike a caulking tube. Castrol Speeroil 00 or similar. You'll have to do some looking on your own. I'm dealing with cancer treatment right now.
When you say bleeding off, do you mean the blade leaks down? If so, it either means an issue with the valve or the hydraulic cyilinder piston packings.How do you drain the hydraulic fluid and also the blade is bleeding off is there something i can do to fix that
The blade leaks down and neither cylinder is leaking so i figure its the valveWhen you say bleeding off, do you mean the blade leaks down? If so, it either means an issue with the valve or the hydraulic cyilinder piston packings.
(FYI)I just bought a 17a and i am going to change all the fluids when i get it to the house. I have delt with diesels so in my head 15-40 is the oil to use but everything im finding about fluids is they used 30w in them in the day so what will it do to change over or should i use 30w
I recommend you stick with SAE30 or even SAE40 in a tired engine.
Use TO-4 30wt in the oil clutch and steering clutches if they are oil type.
There is nothing in these old units that require thinner oil and the viscosity modifiers do nothing.
View attachment 234300
Also I believe I have added the operator manual.(FYI)
I have a D7 (17A8715) I wanted to let you know of an issue I had with the pony engine, it has a screen in the pan that strains the oil before the oil pump, someone had put some type of cloth under the screen apparently to catch more fine particles, which it did.However there is no way to change it ,when it became clogged, without removing the pony. Anyway I was unaware of the cloth being there, and starved the pump/pony engine of oil even though the dipstick said it was full.
The book shows only the screen, I don’t know if this cloth addition was a one off with my unit , or if it was in fashion at one time.
I removed the screen and added a spin on oil filter so that I can remove the debris with the filter, instead of needing to remove the pony to service the screen.
The wider pic shows the rectangular opening where the screen went, the close up shows the spinon adapter with the oil feed tube to the pump galley.
I believe I added pics of this
Mine doesn't have a pony motor so im a little confused on what exactly your talking aboutAlso I believe I have added the operator manual.
There is no way that you can flush out the lube retaining cavities. Just go with the grease you used for now. Any grease is better than no grease.
If you have the electric start diesel and no pony motor it will not matter to you.Mine doesn't have a pony motor so im a little confused on what exactly your talking about