D5G XL Park brake came on when using

[mike holcomb]

I tried to erase the 262 code, now back to pin 1 and 2 I get a 352 code. But I don't see that on list

 

[Nige]

I tried to erase the 262 code, now back to pin 1 and 2 I get a 352 code. But I don't see that on list

If the 262 code is active you won't be able to erase it. I suggest before moving forward power the machine off and back on again to reset everything.

Attached is the troubleshooting procedure for the 262. This relates to CID 1702 which is the Decel switch. If a complete electrical schematic would be of use to use let me know and I'll send you one.

 

[mike holcomb]

I just got a 251 after erasing the 352, now it's blinking 222

 

[mike holcomb]

After thinking about this for a min, the Opperator said 2 weeks ago it was hard to turn and go in rev to the left and it would pop out of reverse on him. So I took boot off and lubed the fwd-rev -left -right control and put it back together. Ran for 2 weeks and said it didn't do that anymore. Then this parking brake light thing happened yesterday

 

[Nige]

I just got a 251 after erasing the 352, now it's blinking 222

222 indicates no Active Codes. Try powering off, leave it for a couple of minutes, then power on again. See what you get.

 

[mike holcomb]

Nothing, still 222 code flashing. I tried main power off, ran it switched thru fwd rev, on and off with park brake switch and still 222 when I recheck it

 

[Nige]

OK, so that indicates there is nothing electronic amiss, at least nothing that is being registered.

I guess the next step is to check the park brake solenoid valve is receiving power to release the brakes. Does the Park Brake light on the dash go off when you move the switch from ON to OFF.?

 

[mike holcomb]

OK, so that indicates there is nothing electronic amiss, at least nothing that is being registered.

I guess the next step is to check the park brake solenoid valve is receiving power to release the brakes. Does the Park Brake light on the dash go off when you move the switch from ON to OFF.?

No, park brake stays on , even when brake is on if I put it in reverse the back up alarm comes on. I don't remember if that's normal? Park brake light will not go out when switch brake to off

 

[CM1995]

OK, next step is to measure alternator output voltage at Low Idle and High Idle RPM.

Hopefully @CM1995 will chime in with confirmation. I know he has a D5G and has experienced the exact same problem.

A little late but here's what we did -

Both batteries check out ok, little low when I put under load 100amp, they show 11 & 11.5 recover to 12 & 12.3

Since ALT is putting out 14.4 V and the park brake switch is new (we've replaced both which fixed the same problem) the third thing to try is another set of batteries. One time we had one battery that tested decent but was pulling down the system voltage. Not saying to buy new batteries but if you have a set that are known to be good swap them out.

G series machines are very finicky with voltage as we all know. I'm not a mechanic these were just our experiences.

 

[mike holcomb]

I dont have another set to try, I dont think it's battery issue both seem to test ok

 

[mike holcomb]

OK, so that indicates there is nothing electronic amiss, at least nothing that is being registered.

I guess the next step is to check the park brake solenoid valve is receiving power to release the brakes. Does the Park Brake light on the dash go off when you move the switch from ON to OFF.?

Where would the park brake solenoid be located? Do I access it up top under floor or drop belly pan

 

[Nige]

I'll send you an electrical schematic. It might come in handy. Keep an eye on your messages.

Check the park brake pressure switch #5 is operating when the brake switch is moved from OFF to ON. The switch is NC and should OPEN with pressure.

Also check that the parking solenoid valve #4 is getting power to release the park brake.

Where would the park brake solenoid be located? Do I access it up top under floor or drop belly pan

I'm sorry I don't know the answer to that. Maybe @CM1995 can answer better than I can. He has a D5G.

 

[mike holcomb]

I'll send you an electrical schematic. It might come in handy. Keep an eye on your messages.

Check the park brake pressure switch #5 is operating when the brake switch is moved from OFF to ON. The switch is NC and should OPEN with pressure.

Also check that the parking solenoid valve #4 is getting power to release the park brake.

View attachment 287759

I'm sorry I don't know the answer to that. Maybe @CM1995 can answer better than I can. He has a D5G.

Ok Thank you

 

[mike holcomb]

On the solenoid I'm getting 10.0-9.9
I tested plug voltage with brake off key on and its 11.5

 

[mike holcomb]

On the solenoid I'm getting 10.0-9.9
I tested plug voltage with brake off key on and its 11.5

11.5v at plug. 10.0 9.9 was ohm on solenoid

 

[mike holcomb]

I'm hoping this is correct solenoid? I had to unbolt the block cause plug had something in it and couldn't get button down to unplug

 

[Nige]

Confirmed that you are on the correct solenoid.

Can you hear it clicking when you apply the 11.5v to it.? If you can't hear it clcking that could be a clue. You might have to remove it from that block

You might get different results with it connected to the machine harness. Do you have any way of back-probing the connector so that you can measure the voltage with it hooked up to the machine.? Also maybe try measuring the voltage with the engine running.?

Solenoid coil resistance specification is 10.16 ± 0.20 ohms, so that is OK.

I'll be honest and say that I am not at all happy with the 11.5v. I'm harking back here to what @CM1995 said in respect of battery condition. I know you have no spare batteries and that makes things more complicated but I'm not happy at all with that voltage.

EDIT: Get on the pressure switch (Ref #5 in Post #32 above) as well. Check the switch contacts, they should be closed. See if the contacts open when you energize the circuit to the park brake solenoid but this will require the engine to be running. My suspicion is that they will stay closed.

BTW I will be stepping out shortly and will be out for the rest of the afternoon. Answers to questions may take longer as a result.........

 

[mike holcomb]

Confirmed that you are on the correct solenoid.

Can you hear it clicking when you apply the 11.5v to it.? If you can't hear it clcking that could be a clue. You might have to remove it from that block

You might get different results with it connected to the machine harness. Do you have any way of back-probing the connector so that you can measure the voltage with it hooked up to the machine.? Also maybe try measuring the voltage with the engine running.?

Solenoid coil resistance specification is 10.16 ± 0.20 ohms, so that is OK.

I'll be honest and say that I am not at all happy with the 11.5v. I'm harking back here to what @CM1995 said in respect of battery condition. I know you have no spare batteries and that makes things more complicated but I'm not happy at all with that voltage.

EDIT: Get on the pressure switch (Ref #5 in Post #32 above) as well. Check the switch contacts, they should be closed. See if the contacts open when you energize the circuit to the park brake solenoid but this will require the engine to be running. My suspicion is that they will stay closed.

BTW I will be stepping out shortly and will be out for the rest of the afternoon. Answers to questions may take longer as a result.........

I have a new solenoid coming in morning. I checked batteries again with different tester and meter and they are up 12.3 12.4 separately. I did have anyone on site to flip switch while I was under it so tomorrow will do those other tests before I switch it. With it running Both batteries are at 13.2-13.4 , And it wings right over when starting so it's just making me feel it's not batteries. Worst-case I can pull batteries out of my truck tomorrow, just to rule that out if need be

 

[CM1995]

I'm sorry I don't know the answer to that. Maybe @CM1995 can answer better than I can. He has a D5G.

Unfortunately I don't know as we have never replaced it.

I have a new solenoid coming in morning. I checked batteries again with different tester and meter and they are up 12.3 12.4 separately. I did have anyone on site to flip switch while I was under it so tomorrow will do those other tests before I switch it. With it running Both batteries are at 13.2-13.4 , And it wings right over when starting so it's just making me feel it's not batteries. Worst-case I can pull batteries out of my truck tomorrow, just to rule that out if need be

From our experience troubleshooting our D5G electrical issues if the entire system is not running very close to 14.4 volts strange things can happen. With it running and reading 13.2-13.4 something on the voltage side is wrong and will cause issues from our experience. However your problem could be something completely different.

I'll be honest and say that I am not at all happy with the 11.5v. I'm harking back here to what @CM1995 said in respect of battery condition. I know you have no spare batteries and that makes things more complicated but I'm not happy at all with that voltage.

 

[mike holcomb]

Unfortunately I don't know as we have never replaced it.



From our experience troubleshooting our D5G electrical issues if the entire system is not running very close to 14.4 volts strange things can happen. With it running and reading 13.2-13.4 something on the voltage side is wrong and will cause issues from our experience. However your problem could be something completely different.

Idk maybe? My buddys D4g is same at his batteries 13.4 13.6 while running, 14.4 at alternator. So after seeing that on his makes me think its something else. I'm not disguarding your info. Thanks