d9gdon
Senior Member
I've welded them before with success.
I've welded them before with success.
Looks like both the steel lines going to the tile cylinders have a crak in them. CAT wants 110 for one and 102 for the other side. Thinking about other options for the fix.
Quickest way would be to go intown and have some flex lines made up with male ends. Issue with this is I would have to modify the guards to keep them protected. Would probably take some doing so I'm still leaning at buying the new lines.
Is there any method to fix them as I would with brake lines, or is the prossure to great?
If you have a good industrial hose shop near by you might be able to have them make new ones up. I know the place we deal with near here does it. Not sure how much you would save. I'm guessing the ends have male JIC threads for the swivel on the hose. You could probably use a heating tip on a torch and get them off and reuse them on some new tubing. They are most likely silver soldered on. Just make sure new tubing is as thick as the original so it can take the pressure.
At the risk of sounding insulting, I have been known to put the thermostat in upside down. Once. LOL
Also, I usually drill about an 1/8" hole in the thermostat if it doesn't have one already, sort of a brute force way to insure the air bleeds from the block.
:my2c
something else is the fan on the correct way for the rotation and curve of the blades, and the rpms didn't start lugging down did they, hope not
The pump came from CAT, cost $450 as I rememberWhere did you get your oil pump? What did it cost
The blades are fixed non-movable. Going to go under the impression that there was an air bubble in it, don't know how. Going to fill it back up this AM and run it and keep checking on it to see if the coolant goes down when the thermostat opens. Didn't check that the first time I filled it up, just cracked the steel line between the stat and head.Not sure if you have a reversible fan, one where each blade can be rotated individually, but we had a machine once whre someone missed one blade and had it opposite the other and this caused an overheat problem.
I'm digging up an old post. I bought a D3B dozer with 3204 engine. The machine runs great but has blow by when running hard and hot. I figured it's time to freshen the motor up. I have bought an inframe rebuild kit. I have dropped the belly pan and all counter weights. I'm ready to drop the oil pan. Only problem is there is a huge crossmember directly under the pan. My question is: Is there enough clearance for the pan to drop or do I need to pull the engine? I don't really want to do that if not needed. Thank you!
So, can you get the oil pan out with the engine still in the machine?