d26.........did you get the chance to eliminate the plug thats between the trans/shuttle mentioned on page 1 of this thread.....if not you might want to pull the cover with the shift lever and take a look at it ....if thats good it almost has to be the seals jusk talked about......
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Case 580 CK rear differential way overfull why?
- Thread starter dad2six
- Start date
jusk ........Thats how i put my rearend to the torque tube except i used my 3 ton h/f floor jack under the tranny then one guy on each rear tire to roll the whole tranny/rearend to the torque tube and it went really good ....
Juskatla
Senior Member
Xpack, I was kinda copying your method to get it apart and back together again. I will have the front on stands and the front wheels so it will stay put. I'm hoping to get started in a week or so, if the weather lets me get some painting done first.
For D26, its something that will need to be done but could wait as long as you watch your levels in each half. I am anxious to get mine done before I refill the torque tube with Hytran Ultra and the rear end with gear oil. I don't know if they mix or just go to the rear end but it can and will get fixed....
For D26, its something that will need to be done but could wait as long as you watch your levels in each half. I am anxious to get mine done before I refill the torque tube with Hytran Ultra and the rear end with gear oil. I don't know if they mix or just go to the rear end but it can and will get fixed....
I will just keep adding fluid for now.
Once I got my hoe bucket cylinder rebuilt I was able to grab rocks and move them with the dipper and swing cylinders. But the boom could not pick them up. It would start to very slowly then stop. I'm assuming the boom cylinder needs to be rebuilt as well. I took it apart and found this pin sticking out of the bolt what's it for? And It's bent a little. The packing was not as bad as the bucket cylinder. But still look worn. What do you guys think?
Once I got my hoe bucket cylinder rebuilt I was able to grab rocks and move them with the dipper and swing cylinders. But the boom could not pick them up. It would start to very slowly then stop. I'm assuming the boom cylinder needs to be rebuilt as well. I took it apart and found this pin sticking out of the bolt what's it for? And It's bent a little. The packing was not as bad as the bucket cylinder. But still look worn. What do you guys think?
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d26.....heres a link kinda explaining it
https://axleaddict.com/auto-repair/...-How-to-Rebuild-or-Repair-Hydraulic-Cylinders
Heck i didnt know what it was until reading Gradys post ......learn new stuff all the time ...........
im with Grady replace them while its apart and it looks like in your first pic that the end of the piston has a hole in it or is it just the pic........
I think it was Grady who said it a while back after you get all the cylinders rebuilt you can almost start over again rebuilding them ........especially the outriggers they get a lot of dirt mud around them i try shake the dirt off them before fully retracting them to keep it at a minimum............
https://axleaddict.com/auto-repair/...-How-to-Rebuild-or-Repair-Hydraulic-Cylinders
Heck i didnt know what it was until reading Gradys post ......learn new stuff all the time ...........
im with Grady replace them while its apart and it looks like in your first pic that the end of the piston has a hole in it or is it just the pic........
I think it was Grady who said it a while back after you get all the cylinders rebuilt you can almost start over again rebuilding them ........especially the outriggers they get a lot of dirt mud around them i try shake the dirt off them before fully retracting them to keep it at a minimum............
diver
Well-Known Member
Good question. I will have to look and see. I wil get a pic if I can.
Juskatla
Senior Member
Restrictor Pin / Pin, Cushioning
I've been trying to post a picture from the Sevice Manual that shows the boom cylinder with the restrictor pin in a sectioned view. It looks like its intended to cushion the end of the retracted stroke of the piston by having the pin go into the hydraulic fluid port in the end of the cylinder. As the pin closes the outflow of oil, the remaining oil cushions the last of the stroke until the spring is completely collapsed before the piston bottoms out. If the pin is hollow, it would allow a gradual flow of the remaining oil, creating a soft stop. In the Case Parts manual, its called restrictor pin and pin, cushioning in a couple of variation of the boom cylinder. The swing cylinders have the pin as well.
A picture is worth a thousand words and I'll try to rescan and post. It wouldn't accept the file type, so its something I'm doing wrong. The diagram makes the explanation understandable
I've been trying to post a picture from the Sevice Manual that shows the boom cylinder with the restrictor pin in a sectioned view. It looks like its intended to cushion the end of the retracted stroke of the piston by having the pin go into the hydraulic fluid port in the end of the cylinder. As the pin closes the outflow of oil, the remaining oil cushions the last of the stroke until the spring is completely collapsed before the piston bottoms out. If the pin is hollow, it would allow a gradual flow of the remaining oil, creating a soft stop. In the Case Parts manual, its called restrictor pin and pin, cushioning in a couple of variation of the boom cylinder. The swing cylinders have the pin as well.
A picture is worth a thousand words and I'll try to rescan and post. It wouldn't accept the file type, so its something I'm doing wrong. The diagram makes the explanation understandable
Juskatla
Senior Member
Ouch, That boulder must be heavy. I move rock that I can't lift by dragging the bucket, but nothing that large. You could also have broken the loader lift frame which is common on these old girls. The axle can be fixed.
On my 580CK, I replaced the axle ends with aftermarket weld on pieces and transferred the spindles with new bearings. Mine came from Draper Tractor in Spokane but others carry this repair part too. You may get lucky and be able to have a welding shop fix that up for you. You will need to remove the spindle and bearing bits. Pay attention to the shims as you will need to get it back to approximately the same play or the bearing will be toast in no time. Good luck on getting going again without too much trouble.
On my 580CK, I replaced the axle ends with aftermarket weld on pieces and transferred the spindles with new bearings. Mine came from Draper Tractor in Spokane but others carry this repair part too. You may get lucky and be able to have a welding shop fix that up for you. You will need to remove the spindle and bearing bits. Pay attention to the shims as you will need to get it back to approximately the same play or the bearing will be toast in no time. Good luck on getting going again without too much trouble.
diver
Well-Known Member
wow, never thought id see one break there, I had spindle break on a ol international 340 utility before