Case 580 CK rear differential way overfull why?

[onemank6]

D26 ..........to me it also sounds like you are leaking internally in that cylinder or it is possible that the piston nut in that cylinder has come loose allowing oil to bypass the piston i think i would eliminate the packing's that jusk mentioned and nut first .........I havent done this one myself but i read where if you start up the machine and you get the hyd oil up to temp and cycle that cylinder and hold the valve that if the piston is leaking internally past the piston the outside of that cylinder will get a lot hotter than one thats not leaking inside....What the heck its worth a shot.....

Mine had a ton of leaks on the valves when i got it and a lot of drifting going on but after rebuilding the cylinders the drifting stopped then i fixed the valves that were leaking...

 

[dad2six]

Thanks for the info guys. I ordered a rebuild kit for the bucket cylinder. I'm going to try and rebuild it myself.

 

[onemank6]

d26 you might consider buying one of these gland nut wrenches this is the size i bought when i started repairing the cylinder on my ck and it has paid for itself heres the link
http://www.ebay.com/itm/8605-ADJUST...GHlaZm7gI9mHxOj4EFQ&item=201223425918&vxp=mtr

these arent that bad to rebuild yourself with the right tools the biggest thing is the mess (oil) but i like to leave the bore right on the tractor then pull the pin for the ram end only then look for a little screw that is screwed into the gland nut and the bore (usually a flathead) remove it if it has one some cylinders dont have this screw.......Then remove the gland nut and pull the ram and piston out of the bore and sometimes these pull hard i usually put a old piece of round stock in the pin hole and just drive it out with a hammer but i have heard of others needing to pull them out with tractors or ratchet straps..........

Then you can take the ram and piston to the bench and its pretty much self explanatory from there just pay attention to how many packings you have on the piston and how they are facing when you remove them ...........The bolt or nut that holds the piston can sometimes be stubborn but i have always got them loose with the ram head locked in a big vise and a 3/4" breaker bar and a cheater pipe if the 1/2" drive impact dont get them loose ..........for the internal seals in the gland nut they are in the nut pretty tight you have to pry them out with a screwdriver and when you put the new ones back in you might think they wont fit as they are a pita but they go in with some bending and twisting but you want to make sure you have this seal facing the right direction before cramming it in there as you might tear it up if you have to remove it if you put it in wrong.......

good luck and if you need anything just give a shout

 

[dad2six]

Great in for xpac! Thank you so much!!

 

[Billrog]

This is a stabilizer cylinder but the pics. may help.

 

[Billrog]

Sorry their not in order I don't know how to make that happen.

 

[dad2six]

Thanks for taking the time to post up all the pics Billrog!!

 

[dad2six]

..........well there's your problem.
Good call guys.

 

[onemank6]

d26 ......Yea that will do it.......you want to look at the cylinder and make sure it isnt dented in ....sometimes these get hit with a big rock or bumping stuff like trees and it dents the bore also look for scratches on the piston and in the bore but the piston looks good in the pics and i have put them back together with scratches and sometimes i wonder how they seal but they do.........

 

[Grady]

Dad, Does your rig have quick disconnects on the main hydraulic lines to and from the hoe? Most do and if so, you may want to crack them and have a look. They are great collectors of those small packing pieces that don't make it to the filter but do restrict the flow at the small passages in those connections.

 

[dad2six]

Dad, Does your rig have quick disconnects on the main hydraulic lines to and from the hoe? Most do and if so, you may want to crack them and have a look. They are great collectors of those small packing pieces that don't make it to the filter but do restrict the flow at the small passages in those connections.

I think mine does. I will have to check them.

 

[Grady]

I was surprised how clogged up mine were when I pulled them apart to change a hose that burst. I think the increased pressure from the clog contributed to the burst hose. You don't want the hot oil treatment from a hose that close to you - or any hose for that matter but one that close is dangerous. Hoses and connectors are expensive but….. I'd at least check those connectors. I've blown lots of hoses over the years and that oil has some range [and volume]when one lets go.

 

[dad2six]

I got the bucket cylinder all rebuilt. And it WORKS great! Holds pressure does not bleed off like it used to. It was pretty straight forward and easy to rebuild. I think i will do a few more

 

[Juskatla]

Good for you! Its great to get something done with good result. The rest will be as easy now that you know the basics and have gained some valuable experience.

 

[Billrog]

Great happy your in business and there'll be no anxiety attached next time. Always feel better when toughs jobs are behind me.

 

[Grady]

D26, Now that you have that boom cylinder all rebuilt, consider supporting it when it's not in use. Later models all came with some way to stabilize the boom but the old CKs only had chains. Anything is better than nothing.

 

[dad2six]

I have been thinking of ideas for a boom lock. It's on my list for sure.

 

[Juskatla]

The chains work ok for transport and for sitting when not in use, the answer is to rest the loader and backhoe bucket on the ground for safety. Once its shut off, a quick back and forth will equalize the hydraulic pressure and relieve the stress on the cylinders. Anyone getting at the machine won't be be in danger of having it move of dropping the working parts on someone else or themselves.

 

[dad2six]

I'm still having the fluid migration issue. Filling up the differential

 

[Juskatla]

D26, I'm going to suggest that its the seals leaking between the torque tube and transmission. In order to replace them, you have to split the tractor there. I already have the seals for that part of my project and the replacement gaskets. When I ordered the other stuff from Dale, I had him send me all the seals for the transmission and rear end which I will replace as I get to them. Xpack has already done the seals between the tow sections and posted pictures of them.
I will get to them in a couple of weeks and will document the process and whatever stands I build to support the sections. I have a good shop floor and a commercial jack, so may just use the jack for the rear end and roll it all back. If its not too serious a transfer, you could just wait until you have the parts, time and setup to do it safely. Mine has leaked for years and I am only getting to it now.