The brakes are a very handy feature on the 450 and being able to pivot turn is something most of us would not be without. Using them to stop the machine is a very valuable bonus as well.
Baz
-
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Case 450 advice
- Thread starter Jednlulu
- Start date
The brakes are a very handy feature on the 450 and being able to pivot turn is something most of us would not be without. Using them to stop the machine is a very valuable bonus as well.
Baz
Pretty sure that we already cleaned the suction filter. I know we changed the oil thinking that it had just thinned out on us, but it did not fix the problem. Can't remember for sure, but I would say almost certainly that we changed filters with the new oil.
If you have done all the obvious things, you have two choices, either start replacing parts you think might cause the problem, (charge pump etc), this is hit and miss and could be an expensive way of doing it the first thing doesn't work, or get a Case expert to test the system with a pressure gauge and a flow meter as per the Case manual. You could do it yourself if you can get hold of the test equipment and a manual if you feel confident.
Baz
Baz
truckman
New Member
Hi i have a 450 case dozer i replaced the rear sprockets and tracks just chain reused the same pads now when i grade i make bumps every six feet if i go slow it seems to work better his it me or the machine
That's a weird one. Can you feel the machine jump every time you get a bump?
If you can, you may have a set of sprockets that are not the correct pitch for the chains, or a seized link in the chain. Try walking the machine with the blade up on smooth ground and see how it travels. If the machine does not jump or buck it may be a problem with how you are operating. With a dozer if you get a scallop or mound created by the blade it will then create a repeat of the same as you run over the undulating ground. once you get this condition it is hard even for an experienced operator to correct and generally requires that you reverse up and start the pass again.
Baz
If you can, you may have a set of sprockets that are not the correct pitch for the chains, or a seized link in the chain. Try walking the machine with the blade up on smooth ground and see how it travels. If the machine does not jump or buck it may be a problem with how you are operating. With a dozer if you get a scallop or mound created by the blade it will then create a repeat of the same as you run over the undulating ground. once you get this condition it is hard even for an experienced operator to correct and generally requires that you reverse up and start the pass again.
Baz
The 455/450C are a very reliable machine if maintained well.
Apart from filters and oil, Valve clearance need to be done at least every 500hrs, and belt tensioner can cause problems with alternator bearings and water pump. If brakes are dry type, they need to be adjusted to work properly, and if the balls wear into the disc tracks, the disc need to be replaced or the brakes will either grab or not work. Other than these things I can't think of a recurring problem or weakness in the 10,000 hrs I have done on my 455C.
Baz
Apart from filters and oil, Valve clearance need to be done at least every 500hrs, and belt tensioner can cause problems with alternator bearings and water pump. If brakes are dry type, they need to be adjusted to work properly, and if the balls wear into the disc tracks, the disc need to be replaced or the brakes will either grab or not work. Other than these things I can't think of a recurring problem or weakness in the 10,000 hrs I have done on my 455C.
Baz
Last edited:
D&GExcavating
Senior Member
Well lets see some pictures of her doing some work now!
Jednlulu
Active Member
- Joined
- Apr 5, 2010
- Messages
- 40
- Location
- Carey, OH
- Occupation
- Sales-Automotive & PSP Brake Manufacturing Company
Truckman, welcome to the forum. You'll find this place really helpful if you provide as many details as possible.
You didn't mention what year your machine is. I've recently learned that in 1973, the pitch of the chain changed slightly. You may want to confirm that your sprockets are mated to the chains. If you don't mind me asking, what is / was condition of your previous chains and sprockets prior to changing them out? Also, any details on where you got them from and cost would be greatly appreciated. Mine has "pre 1973 type" sprockets and chains....27 teeth on the sprockets. I'm looking for some "used but have a little life left in them" sprockets myself so,depending upon the condition of yours (and chains), where you're located, I may be interested in them.
You didn't mention what year your machine is. I've recently learned that in 1973, the pitch of the chain changed slightly. You may want to confirm that your sprockets are mated to the chains. If you don't mind me asking, what is / was condition of your previous chains and sprockets prior to changing them out? Also, any details on where you got them from and cost would be greatly appreciated. Mine has "pre 1973 type" sprockets and chains....27 teeth on the sprockets. I'm looking for some "used but have a little life left in them" sprockets myself so,depending upon the condition of yours (and chains), where you're located, I may be interested in them.
Jednlulu
Active Member
- Joined
- Apr 5, 2010
- Messages
- 40
- Location
- Carey, OH
- Occupation
- Sales-Automotive & PSP Brake Manufacturing Company
..truckman..also, i think it may be possible to install the pads (on the pre 73 style) backwards as the bolt pattern is a perfect rectangle, where as 73 and later have offset mounting. THe two bolts in front of each pad are slightly offset to the rear bolts. If you have pre 73, possible to have installed one pad backwards and it's binding on the one adjacent to it when it rounds the radius of the idler or sprocket....? Just a thought.
Jednlulu
Active Member
- Joined
- Apr 5, 2010
- Messages
- 40
- Location
- Carey, OH
- Occupation
- Sales-Automotive & PSP Brake Manufacturing Company
TALLRICK, Check eBay for a CD version...I got one for my 1973 Case 450. I think it was like $10 bucks or something....very insightful, well layed out and good quality detail. Good luck.
truckman
New Member
hi my machine is 1975 sir# 3062316 sorry i scraped the old tracks i used aftermarket chain about $5000 canadian my friend did the same as i did and got the same problem.as soon as i get into a pile i cant keep a even grade only way is to go slow thanks
Jednlulu
Active Member
- Joined
- Apr 5, 2010
- Messages
- 40
- Location
- Carey, OH
- Occupation
- Sales-Automotive & PSP Brake Manufacturing Company
AU.Case, sorry, I can't seem to find ANYTHING in my records. I never noticed the branding....but every single page has it in mine too...ah well, can't gripe over $10. Sure helped me with timing my fuel pump....Good luck!
Jednlulu
Active Member
- Joined
- Apr 5, 2010
- Messages
- 40
- Location
- Carey, OH
- Occupation
- Sales-Automotive & PSP Brake Manufacturing Company
Got my sprockets!
So, I managed to locate some used sprockets that are in like new condition. Made a nice day trip with the family to western PA to get them and managed to drive a little farther north, back into Ohio to visit my aunt. Managed to pick them up for $200 cash. I'd gotten quotes for new ones for $700 delivered. Man, www.craiglook.com is a real gem and helps you look much farther away than just your immediate area of location.
My track had popped off about 2 weeks ago when I was out "training", performing a sharp turn to the right using Left HI and Right LO. Dangit to heck!
But, got my sprockets picked up this weekend, and got one on tonight, back in action. Just have to do the left side.
I was intimidated about having to split the track, I can't seem to find the master pin(s) and several were welded in place. So, I decided to remove the grease fitting from the adjustment cylinder and "jack" the front roller back. You can see in the pics that the cylinder grease "oozed out" with little effort.
I put blocks underneath the rear and raised the machine ups slightly in order to give some ground clearence to move the track around a bit. Then, I compressed the adjustment cylinder by "jacking" against the front blade with a screw jack from my 86 F350 dually (hyd jack won't function sideways). I used a come-a-long to hoist the track up and over the sprocket (once installed) and then used reverse to pull the track back on completely. I'm posting a few pics of this, along with a pic of the bargain sprockets I was able to score! Thanks to everyone, within the forum and "out there" for the help. Very much appreciated. Our pond is getting closer to a reality!
So, I managed to locate some used sprockets that are in like new condition. Made a nice day trip with the family to western PA to get them and managed to drive a little farther north, back into Ohio to visit my aunt. Managed to pick them up for $200 cash. I'd gotten quotes for new ones for $700 delivered. Man, www.craiglook.com is a real gem and helps you look much farther away than just your immediate area of location.
My track had popped off about 2 weeks ago when I was out "training", performing a sharp turn to the right using Left HI and Right LO. Dangit to heck!
But, got my sprockets picked up this weekend, and got one on tonight, back in action. Just have to do the left side.
I was intimidated about having to split the track, I can't seem to find the master pin(s) and several were welded in place. So, I decided to remove the grease fitting from the adjustment cylinder and "jack" the front roller back. You can see in the pics that the cylinder grease "oozed out" with little effort.
I put blocks underneath the rear and raised the machine ups slightly in order to give some ground clearence to move the track around a bit. Then, I compressed the adjustment cylinder by "jacking" against the front blade with a screw jack from my 86 F350 dually (hyd jack won't function sideways). I used a come-a-long to hoist the track up and over the sprocket (once installed) and then used reverse to pull the track back on completely. I'm posting a few pics of this, along with a pic of the bargain sprockets I was able to score! Thanks to everyone, within the forum and "out there" for the help. Very much appreciated. Our pond is getting closer to a reality!
Attachments
Jbird1
Member
Good tips, new to dozers bought case 450, 45% track left, no leaks, no water in oil or oil in water, good oil and trans pressure, no smoke, flushing all brake line, hydraulics, trans, finals, idler, new filters for all, new fuel bowl, have slow leak in right side track adjuster, need to be re pumped with grease every 6 hours usually has slipped 1/2. Trans works, seems same at normal or low temp, brakes slightly differ. Nice to know tap and hi-low shift turn, was idling one brake to turn, very slow but works. Plan to flush hydraulic tank and fuel tank, blow out all the lines using air. Is this on track? Sorry new and stupid this. Is a 1976 unit.
Jbird1
Member
Did some research on tch vs other. Friend works for Case TCH is old stuff, he uses O'Rielly Premium it's rated ms-1210, jic145, j20c. Talk to old engineering friend who works in petroleum industry, TCH is the ms-1210 standard.
$39 5 gal.
He also liked the newer ms-1209 stuff, but was concerned about seals with it on old unit.
Been reading on tracks and chains what do you lube tracks with out side 30wt for rollers, idler, etc? What frequency?
$39 5 gal.
He also liked the newer ms-1209 stuff, but was concerned about seals with it on old unit.
Been reading on tracks and chains what do you lube tracks with out side 30wt for rollers, idler, etc? What frequency?
Jbird1
Member
450 update
Getting started, need a bottom cup for hydraulic filter, low iq person had crushed it with what looks like pipe wrench }%#}^%#%^. At least carefully removed it. Trans fluid was good color no burn smell, caught suction filter just in time was falling apart, removed lines and blew out and cleaned with hydraulic fluid. Engine oil was usual normal Delo black. Hydraulic filter was in pieces in the bowl. Used Mobile one grease on track adjuster seems to have stopped the leak. Did 5 hours of heavy work did not slip. Picked up omrings for fuel injector banjo bolts. Had two seapers. $4.68 for ten pack.
Talked to my Case dealer in Pasco, she recommended a prebuilt chain for $652, reused growlers, remachine and baring rollers, sprockets were at 60%, idler and adjusters one greased and oiled work well now. Doing final gear oil change in the morning. Not bad to work on, like my Tym-Kabota.
Glad I got the under work done will snow tonight.
Get tips gents. Also Case lady recommended for trans and hydraulic fluid MS-1210 and case trans additive will work just fine.
Getting started, need a bottom cup for hydraulic filter, low iq person had crushed it with what looks like pipe wrench }%#}^%#%^. At least carefully removed it. Trans fluid was good color no burn smell, caught suction filter just in time was falling apart, removed lines and blew out and cleaned with hydraulic fluid. Engine oil was usual normal Delo black. Hydraulic filter was in pieces in the bowl. Used Mobile one grease on track adjuster seems to have stopped the leak. Did 5 hours of heavy work did not slip. Picked up omrings for fuel injector banjo bolts. Had two seapers. $4.68 for ten pack.
Talked to my Case dealer in Pasco, she recommended a prebuilt chain for $652, reused growlers, remachine and baring rollers, sprockets were at 60%, idler and adjusters one greased and oiled work well now. Doing final gear oil change in the morning. Not bad to work on, like my Tym-Kabota.
Glad I got the under work done will snow tonight.
Get tips gents. Also Case lady recommended for trans and hydraulic fluid MS-1210 and case trans additive will work just fine.