Can someone explain this

[lantraxco]

That track adjuster rod is a relatively inexpensive part, I would buy a new one so you know it's straight and strong, I think there's two seals for it should be replaced at the same time.

Don't get too excited about the undercarriage, a bit of thoughtful study will lead you to what needs to be corrected or replaced. A bit of grinding on the pin ends needs attention but not panic. It's what, a forty year old machine? Bound to need a little love to keep it going.

 

[Nige]

Your idlers don't match wear wise side to side for one. The broken idler is def causing that side chain to be rubbing. Start looking for undercarriage parts.

Seconded. The left idler is worn like a razor compared to the right. However see below ......

Can't I repair broken idler by welding it?

It may be possible to weld if it is the shaft from the idler frame back to the tensioner/recoil mechanism that is broken, however I would start by trying to identify WHY the shaft broke in the first place. Also price a replacement and then ask yourself if you can weld it cheaper/better than replacing it. It could have broken due to excessive vertical play in the idler guides caused by a combination of poor maintenance and/or wear.

Like others here I think it needs a look at the complete undercarriage system, starting with the track frames, equalizer bar & pins, and the rear track frame pivots, because if there is anything major there then one or both track frames are going to have to come off for a start. At the same time you could start looking at the condition of bottom & top rollers, idlers, & sprockets. Lastly the tracks. I know zilch about the JD450 so I have no idea if as others have opined that the tracks are incorrect. Maybe it might be an idea to find some marks on the sides of the links to see whether or not the tracks are even the correct ones to fit the tractor, because if they are wrong then it would be nonsense to replace damaged sprocket segments for example.

This tractor is not necessarily going to be a money pit, however it looks as though it's in need of some TLC in the undercarriage department. I hope you didn't pay too much for it. If the undercarriage is in that sort of state it makes me question what the rest of the machine is like..?

 

[lantraxco]

Just a note for those not familiar with this make and model, the track adjuster rod is solid where it goes into the yoke and acts as a piston rod, but is welded to a pipe section which is why you see the chrome part near the yoke and a rusty rod further back. They almost always break at the weld when the idler brackets get worn and the idler starts to move and twist, very common.

 

[Nige]

Just a note for those not familiar with this make and model, the track adjuster rod is solid where it goes into the yoke and acts as a piston rod, but is welded to a pipe section which is why you see the chrome part near the yoke and a rusty rod further back. They almost always break at the weld when the idler brackets get worn and the idler starts to move and twist, very common.

From failure to correctly shim/poor maintenance then..?

 

[redneckracin]

I just replaced my yoke and rod for a 550 jd for about $450 bucks. That's brand new no messing around with old welds. Also, bottom rollers were about 125 a piece this winter and actually seal kits from jd weren't to expensive either for the tensioner or the rollers. Jdparts.com will give you prices if it's still available but most importantly it will give you part numbers to search for parts.

 

[lantraxco]

From failure to correctly shim/poor maintenance then..?

Exactly Nige, or possibly a broken recoil spring at the rear putting an angle on the back end of the rod. There's typically a sheet metal cover over the rear section so you don't see it until things start looking knackered.

 

[StxRancher]

Well, I can blame anyone, but I feel the seller should have been a bit more honest about the description..for instance..it wouldn't steer at all, so I tore into it and found that the brake levers were frozen in the engaged mode top steer and I'm guessing the wanted machine to move so they used the cog wheel to loosen up brakes to get it moving and were too lazy to fix..so if I had to guess, they gave the machine very little attention....it starts right up and has good power, I'm hoping I can give it all the attention to get it the way it should be...honestly the tracks scare me, since I've never worked on them before. I might have paid too much, but it's done..I paid $9k

 

[lantraxco]

No that sounds like a fair price unless there's more wrong with it. I see these going for around $15K typically in good condition.

 

[Nige]

Well, I can blame anyone, but I feel the seller should have been a bit more honest about the description............it starts right up and has good power, I'm hoping I can give it all the attention to get it the way it should be...honestly the tracks scare me, since I've never worked on them before.

If it was in an auction you have to live by the good old motto "buyer beware". If a buyer isn't machinery savvy they should take someone with them who is to look at the machine before bidding.

Don't worry about never having worked on undercarriage before. There are plenty of people on here with loads of experience who can guide you through the process. It's not as difficult as you might think but really needs to be done in a certain order.

Get yourself registered at jdparts.com to find parts info for your tractor.

 

[StxRancher]

Thanks for all the great info...I guess I should've mentioned it was an online auction about 1200 miles away...nonetheless is mine now

 

[StxRancher]

Ok, I'm back to my dozer..this is what I found...the suspected idler rib is about 11 mm narrower that the idler on the other side, and the rails over lap it..it looks like it doesn't even belong on this machine.....they are over $500 to replace..I think I'm going to rebuild it..I have decent welding skills...how hard is it to split the track when I can't find the master pin?

 

[JS300]

Maybe you can find a used one rather than rebuild that one. I just ran into a similar deal with one of my front idlers. I called a local dozer shop and he had a used idler and track adjuster assembly. It was in the same shape as the other side on my machine. I picked up the part for $350 and was back going in a day or so. It will take allot of welding and grinding to fix that one.

 

[JS300]

Look for a link with a split down the center of the chain to find master link. The grouser pad bolts hold the link together. Mine was a pain to get apart but finally did after soaking it with BP Blaster and little hammer time.

 

[lantraxco]

I don't think they've made those cast idlers in forty years, look for a decent used fabricated one like you have on the other side as JS300 suggested, would be my advice as well.

 

[Heavey Metal]

What you have is a $1,500 dozer.

I would not spend a dime on it til I knew that the reverser pulled when it got up to temperature.

Those tractors are notorious for the frame breaking where it attaches to the finals.

The undercarriage is sho nuf ugly but needs run to find out the condition of the motor and reverser.


I would be getting my money back.

 

[Dickjr.]

What you have is a $1,500 dozer.

I would not spend a dime on it til I knew that the reverser pulled when it got up to temperature.

Those tractors are notorious for the frame breaking where it attaches to the finals.

The undercarriage is sho nuf ugly but needs run to find out the condition of the motor and reverser.


I would be getting my money back.

That's a little harsh. I believe a new idler can be had for 500$or less that will have a warranty. If you look at the time to re weld and cost to fit new bushings on the axle it would be about as easy to buy a new one. My thoughts are if you re weld then you might loose an axle and then its junk. Splitting the tracks is not a big deal either. I like to break them on the idler then use a 6x6 to hold the bottom part of the chain up and a ratchet binder or come along to pull the top of the rail back in place. Clean all the contact areas good with a buffer wheel. Does the tractor have other issues?

 

[StxRancher]

That's a little harsh. I believe a new idler can be had for 500$or less that will have a warranty. If you look at the time to re weld and cost to fit new bushings on the axle it would be about as easy to buy a new one. My thoughts are if you re weld then you might loose an axle and then its junk. Splitting the tracks is not a big deal either. I like to break them on the idler then use a 6x6 to hold the bottom part of the chain up and a ratchet binder or come along to pull the top of the rail back in place. Clean all the contact areas good with a buffer wheel. Does the tractor have other issues?

How can I lose an axle if I'm going to weld up the front idler? This is the biggest issue...other issue I found is small radiator leak..I ran this machine for about 1 1/2 hrs and it had plenty power in forward and reverse.
As for a $1500 machine???? well I'm not sure the poster has any knowledge of heavy equipment machinery or is qualified.

 

[Heavey Metal]

How can I lose an axle if I'm going to weld up the front idler? This is the biggest issue...other issue I found is small radiator leak..I ran this machine for about 1 1/2 hrs and it had plenty power in forward and reverse.
As for a $1500 machine???? well I'm not sure the poster has any knowledge of heavy equipment machinery or is qualified.

https://g.co/kgs/dfgnH0

 

[StxRancher]

As for radiator issue, it was just a loose clamp

 

[Dickjr.]

You won't actually lose the axle as far as it being gone from your presence. These things tend to break after hours of fatigue. And there are bearings the axle runs on that wear as well. Point being , I hate to see you spend 20 hours welding and grinding to have another idler issue.