955L questions before i buy

[Nige]

Look at the different lengths on the adjusting screws. Despite the fact the lever on the right is way further away, the adjuster on the right is screwed at least 4 turns further in than the one on the left. Is there any chance someone has been in there before and got the alignment between the arm and the shaft out by 1 spline when reassembling..?
If that's not a possibility then it's a case of keep digging.

 

[cg3p0]

I dont think anyone fiddled with it but cant say for sure, would have thought the previous owner would have said something but you never know. Got to keep digging to fully inspect the breaks anyways so ill keep going wiht it.

 

[Nige]

Before you pull anything more apart see if you can get a read on the angle of the arm underneath relative to the one on the top. see the illustration below. In your photo are Items 1-8 among others, but note that there is another arm below (12, 30, 32, 32). It's kinda visible in your photo but not well.

Another thought. Ypou said the brake band looks pretty weel instact. I wonder if that friction material you found could be from the steering cltuch discs and you have a major mechanical hernia in there that's not allowing the clutch to release..?

Keep digging I guess. Where's tctractors when you need him..? He'd know exactly whats wrong with this old girl.

 

[cg3p0]

oh too late ive been out there working. All i got off was the booster so far though. I have found one broken part for sure now. Its the nut (2) that retains the bearing cage and yolk (5). It looks like the threads it was screwed on snapped off. This does explain the slack in the lever. Nut is pushed left out of view in first picture and pushed right in second picture. Some good news, my break drums appear to still be smooth.

 

[cg3p0]

Those levers do appear to be at the same angle on both sides so i do believe they are on the correct splines. You might be correct about the clutch material, actually i think there may be both clutch and break material, the break pads look to be intact but i can see parts of the edges chipped off. And the oil was very dirty and got me thinking it may be more clutch material related than break. Can anyone tell me if these clutches start wearing down, will the machine only go when throttled up? I noticed the machine doesnt move unless i crank the throttle up a fair amount when in gear, dont move at low idle.

 

[cg3p0]

Its out! Anyone know if I can break this thing down with one of these https://www.harborfreight.com/20-ton-shop-press-32879.html

 

[Nige]

No, for two reasons IMO: -

1. The Service Manual calls for the use of adapters and a step plate. It would be extremely difficult to set up that Harbor Freight press to support the appropriate part of the back side of the steering clutch housing all the way around its diameter while applying pressure to the end of the shaft.

2. The installation procedure calls for the application of 15-20 tons to install the steering clutches. In that case it will require well in excess of that number to break them free for removal. The HF press is only rated at 20 tons so on paper it ain't big enough.

 

[cg3p0]

Well that sucks. I was having fun doing everything myself, going to ruin my video series i got in the works Guess ill have to take it in to a shop from here. Now that i can see everything, the break pads really dont look that bad, i thought they were chipped but i think its just grooves manufactured into the pad faces, i guess for oil passages. Did see one small chip but nothing major. Not sure why my break adjuster was clicking when tightening it, it does not click now that everyting is taken apart, guess its related to the broken nut. So if my dark oil isnt the breaks i guess it must be the clutches. So i will have the shop fix that broken nut and related parts as well as change the clutch plates and whatever else they find wrong with thier experienced eyes. Is it usually cheaper to buy the parts and bring them in or are shops usually reasonable?

 

[Nige]

Sucks when you don't have a shop fully-equipped with everything you need doesn't it..?
Why not try to find a shop local to you that has suitable tooling and the capability to remove the steering clutches..? Doesn't necessarily have to be the dealer but it should be EXPERIENCED with this type of equipment.
Then you take all the parts back to your place, disassemble the clutches yourself, determine what parts are required, procure said parts, and reassemble the clutches.
The last step is to take the shaft assembly and rebuilt steering cltuches back to said shop and have them press the clutches back on to the shaft for you. There is no shame in not being able to do everything yourself when working with a piece of Yellow Iron. The real skill is working out when you need to call on outside help.

Can't remember if I posted it, but Offroad Equipment are a good source of both OEM and aftermarket parts for your machine. www.offroadeq.com/

 

[cg3p0]

Yea i can never get enough tools, my mechanic tool selection sucks. Most my tools are carpentry related, but ive been getting into this mechanic stuff lately and need some better tools. Working out in the field and small junk sheds soon to be torn down once the new house and pole barn are finished.

These videos take forever to upload, im way past this point now and 2 more vids waiting to put up.

 

[showrguy]

Yea i can never get enough tools, my mechanic tool selection sucks. Most my tools are carpentry related, but ive been getting into this mechanic stuff lately and need some better tools. Working out in the field and small junk sheds soon to be torn down once the new house and pole barn are finished.

These videos take forever to upload, im way past this point now and 2 more vids waiting to put up.

Awesome video,, very entertaining..
I don’t know if you noticed, but the brake adjuster that was clicking was also twitching when it clicked..
I know you’re way past that now, but thought I’d mention it..

 

[russ61]

I cant remember where it was on my 955H but there were a bunch of coil springs ,like 15-20 ,that transmited power before the steering clutches .It's been like 25 years so I'm a foggy on details.

 

[Nige]

You mean #27 & #28..? There are 8 of each per steering clutch.

 

[russ61]

You mean #27 & #28..? There are 8 of each per steering clutch.
View attachment 198608

That must be it. Doesn’t seem right but that’s all there is.

 

[cg3p0]

showrguy,
Thanks! And good eye, i did notice that tightener moving too. Still not exactly sure why it was doing that, but i believe it was related to that broken nut and the break drum moving funny on it as i tightened the band. The tightener doest click now that everything is apart.

Still trying to hunt down someone to pull the clutches off the shaft, search not going so well. I might have to try to pull it myself at this rate. I did find a guy that was able to do it with the same harbor freight press, but he doesnt show how and his clutches are set up easier to press it looks like.

 

[cg3p0]

Lube up your shop gloves, i got more cat porn!

 

[Nige]

933 is a totally different setup to your 955L. Each clutch group is removed separately instead of removing the complete cross-shaft with the 2 steering clutches installed on it. Pressing the clutch drum off the shaft under those circumstances is much easier and requires different tooling.

 

[cg3p0]

I found a shop to pull the clutches off the shaft. Waiting for them to get it done.

 

[Nige]

If the shop is not already aware just make sure that they only slacken the nuts holding the clutches, not remove them completely. If you refer to your Service Manual you'll that see it tells you to back off the nuts something like 1/4" away from the clutch hub. If the nuts are completely removed when the shaft is pressed things can tend to fly long distances when the taper lets go.

 

[kshansen]

If the nuts are completely removed when the shaft is pressed things can tend to fly long distances when the taper lets go.

That's a good practice anytime you are removing something on a tapered shaft!