955L questions before i buy

[AllDodge]

I'm finding for cylinder 7J9637 Says for tilt cylinder it list 3 seal kits, maybe someone else can figure out which one is which
242-2542 (maybe full kit)
243-0385 (maybe rod end)
243-0386 (maybe cap end)

Seals 5J5020 need 2 ea
Bearing 4J4630 need 1 each

 

[Nige]

A tip for next time. Back the nut off just a couple of turns instead of removing it completely. Then when everything finally pops under the weight of the press there is less chance of having flying parts.

 

[cg3p0]

the kit that they sent me was 242-2542 and it was short one of the seals. Was talking with offroadeq and they think it is an updated part and for some reason the kit doesnt come with 2 seal assemblies so i ordered another one. The new seal assembly is different than the old one so hopefully it works ok. Thanks for the tip Nige, will do next time for sure.

 

[cg3p0]

Parts are in now. I got the wear ring and seals on the piston and about to start putting the seals in the head. Got the primer and sealer the instructions say to use for the wiper seal. Seems easy, should have no problem there.

Have a question about getting the piston back on the rod. I couldnt find anything in the manual about this. Do i have to press the piston back on the rod before torquing down the big nut, or can i just set the piston on the rod and torque down the nut?

 

[kshansen]

Parts are in now. I got the wear ring and seals on the piston and about to start putting the seals in the head. Got the primer and sealer the instructions say to use for the wiper seal. Seems easy, should have no problem there.

Have a question about getting the piston back on the rod. I couldnt find anything in the manual about this. Do i have to press the piston back on the rod before torquing down the big nut, or can i just set the piston on the rod and torque down the nut?

Should just have to tighten to the correct torque. If Cat wanted the piston to be pressed on before tightening the nut they would have put that in the manual along with how many tones of pressure.

Just be sure the torque you are going by is for the correct cylinder, in other words one with the tapered shaft. Also I would be sure to have the piston and the ram clean and dry especially in the tapered area. Any lubrication there could possibly cause a problem with piston going on too far or even splitting.

 

[Nige]

No, the piston does not have to be pressed on to the taper on the rod.
I would suggest to set the piston in boiling water for a few minutes. Then simply drop it on to the taper and tighten the nut. Last step would be to install the piston seals.
I hope you took on board an earlier suggestion to mark the position of the nut relative to the rod before removing it..? That makes it so much easier to get it back in exactly the same place as it was before when no torque tooling is available.

 

[cg3p0]

Thanks guys! I did mark the nut and rod before i took it apart. Great advice!

 

[Nige]

Thing is if you expand the piston just a hair before installation you won’t have to pull anywhere near as hard on the nut to get it back to the same place it was before because you won’t be having to press the piston into place at the same time.

 

[kshansen]

Thing is if you expand the piston just a hair before installation you won’t have to pull anywhere near as hard on the nut to get it back to the same place it was before because you won’t be having to press the piston into place at the same time.

And while the piston will expand some in the boiling water it won't be near enough to cause any problems. And the water should evaporate and not cause any problems for the seals already installed, just let it cool down before slipping into the cylinder.

 

[cg3p0]

Makes sense it would be easier. You are thinking i would not have to remove the seals? Im worried about boogering up the rubber backers getting them back out of the deep grooves they are in, they didnt go in real easy... As far as torquing i was planning to use the tractor to push it again, so pushing force isnt really a problem, my only concern would be my homemade wrench holding up.

 

[AllDodge]

Suggest place in an oven about 350*
Use welding gloves and lay in place then tighten nut. Once cooled install seals

 

[Nige]

Makes sense it would be easier. You are thinking i would not have to remove the seals? Im worried about boogering up the rubber backers getting them back out of the deep grooves they are in, they didnt go in real easy... As far as torquing i was planning to use the tractor to push it again, so pushing force isnt really a problem, my only concern would be my homemade wrench holding up.

If you heat up the piston in boiling water the piston seals could stay on. When I made the suggestion above I did not realize that you had already installed them, and if installation was a struggle then I would suggest not to risk anything by trying to temove them again. Let's face it the oil temperature in the hydraulic system normally runs at close to the 100 DegC mark anyway, so hot water won't affect them. Just make sure that everything is well dry before you install the piston/rod assembly back into the cylinder barrel.

 

[cg3p0]

I got that cylinder back together fine. Been straightening up all the sheet metal and now working on some electrical issues. Got the hour meter working now. Replaced a bunch of corroding wires and bad terminal connectors. The starter ground was loose, cleaned that up and tightened it down and it starts much stronger now. Having an issue with my charging system now. I dont think it is charging. The amp meter doesnt move negative or positive at all. I tested the meter, it is still good. Is it suppose to go negitave while starting, not sure why that type of meter is there? The batteries are sitting around 12.3 when its running, seems like it would be higher if the alternator was working. Manual is suggesting the belt, brushes, connections, or rotor.

Also, does anyone know what this is, there is what appears to be an electrical terminal on it but nothing was hooked up to it. There is a wire below it that may have been hooked to it. It goes into the guage area but wasnt hooked to anything. Has a part number 6N411 on it. This is 3304 motor.

 

[cg3p0]

Oh nevermind about the alternator, it is working i just had to up the rpms to get the meter working, still wondering what that other thing is though if anyone knows.

 

[AllDodge]

The batteries are sitting around 12.3 when its running

Should see 14.5V on each battery when running, and get about 28V off the alternator

Fully changed bat which has sit off charging for an hour should be close to 12.7V

 

[Cmark]

Oh nevermind about the alternator, it is working i just had to up the rpms to get the meter working, still wondering what that other thing is though if anyone knows.

That's a test connector used when setting the governor. It shouldn't have anything attached to it.

 

[Bluox]

Oh nevermind about the alternator, it is working i just had to up the rpms to get the meter working, still wondering what that other thing is though if anyone knows.

It's not hooked to anything it's used to set up pump governor .
Bob