955K shifter linkage questions

[houser]

Okay, here is a quick update. I visited my somewhat local used heavy equipment company and scored 2 steel lines that go under the belly, the brackets and bolts to attatch it, both coil guards, the side plate under the battery access panel, and the 4 short hydraulic lines that connect the steel lines to the vertical lines! The shifting linkage is also back from the metal shop and ready to go back in. Weather permitting, this weekend I will get the hydraulic lines and shifting linkage attached. I'll also drain the transmission oil and replace it too. It is supposed to snow so am not sure how much I will actually get done!

 

[AllDodge]

Your making some real progress and making me feel bad about not getting out there and start replacing my rails. :salute

 

[houser]

Another quick update. I managed to get the shifting linkage all back together before the rain stopped my fun. I had to shorten the reverser shifting rod after I replaced the rod ends. Evidently the new ends were not threaded as deep. After all said and done, I can feel the shifter going from Forward to Reverse when I shift it. As the weather straightens up this week, I will try to make some more progress.

 

[houser]

Had beautiful weather over the weekend! I'll post pics in a couple of days, but I managed to get the transmission oil changed and the two new steel hydraulic lines under the transmission put on. Someone had cut the ends off the old steel lines and welded female fittings on. They then placed a 4 foot flexible line across the bottom and looped it over some linkage. That is why it was hanging down. There is a long one and a short one. I attached the long one with brackets to the frame but have to figure out how the shorter one attaches. The transmission fluid was milky so there was some water mixed in. I did not get any water that was separated from the oil so someone has used a trans-hydraulic oil that will emulsify with water. I am not sure if the water mixed in would cause a problem with not running in 2nd or 3rd, but hope that between this oil issue and the linkage I fixed that all will be okay. I'll know more when the ground freezes so I can start her up and move her around w/o tearring up my drive.

 

[houser]

New hydraulic lines under tranny

Okay everyone, had time to take a couple of pics. Here are my new hydraulic lines, steel ones, like the originals that should have been on her!

 

[AllDodge]

What no new paint !! Just kidding, looking good

 

[houser]

I do plan on giving her some new color when I'm done working on her ailments! I found most all the sheetmetal I'm missing. Still have to find the front side covers ahead of the coil covers and the back panel behind the driver. On an aside, what is the function of the coils? The track adjusters keep the tracks tight so what role do the coils play?

 

[Nige]

Good score at the breakers yard.....
All that appears missing right now is the bracket and fittings for the clamp that holds the 2 steel tubes up to the machine frame in the centre. You REALLY want clamp in place otherwise it's going to put too much weight on the clamps/brackets on the outside ends of the steel lines. Either way you're well on the way to sorting the problem.

 

[houser]

Hey Nigel. I did score all the brackets too! If you look close, you will notice that the longer line that goes to the outer part of the frame has the brackets on now. The brackets attach where the steel lines attach to the flex lines. Once I had them on, I pulled around on it and it feels nice and solid. I don't seem to have the middle clamp that holds the two lines apart, but am not sure I need it. I've actually got the brackets for the shorter line but had to find a picture on where they need to be installed. I've now figured that out, but it's 19 deg F outside with about 4" of snow so I'm in no hurry to install them yet. Once the weather straightens up, I plan on starting her up and trying out the hydraulics and transmission. I hope replacing the transmission oil and linkage will fix the shifting issue. If not, it definitely did not hurt anything. As I noted earlier, the transmission fluid was milky looking so it did have some water in it. Regarding the springs, how do they function with the track adjusters?

 

[Nige]

The middle clamp that "holds the 2 lines apart" is the one I was referring to. That clamp will prevent a lot of potential vibration issues in the steel lines that could result in cracks in the lines themselves or in the fittings at the ends of them.

The hydraulic tensioners are what puts the initial tension on the tracks. The springs are a recoil mechanism so that if something gets jammed in the tracks they can allow the idler to move rearwards then spring back once the obstruction is removed. Without the springs there would be no "give" in the tension mechanism and things would break.

 

[houser]

Nigel - Thanks, that is what I thought but wanted to make sure. Do you kow what the compressed and uncompressed length is for these springs?

 

[Nige]

Nigel - Thanks, that is what I thought but wanted to make sure. Do you kow what the compressed and uncompressed length is for these springs?

Here is an extract from the specifications in the manual. These springs don't usually get "tired", they are either in one piece or broken.

Length assembled for installation ... 24.23 in.(615.4 mm)
Length after installation ... 24.73 in.(628.1 mm)
Force of spring after installation ... 15 ton(13.6 metric ton)
Free length ... 30.22 in.(767.6 mm)

 

[houser]

springs

Thanks again Nigel. :notworthy So, if I get new assembled springs, it sounds like I will need to open them up once I put them in. Is this right?

 

[Bob/Ont]

Yes the bolt is only for compressing them to remove and install. Once in place with anchors on, wrap the track, adjust as tight as you can. Then put a 4X4 in the sprocket teeth and back up, spring will be compressed a bit, back off nut on spring bolt to end of bolt. Then drive forward, remove 4X4 and adjust track properly(idler tight then back off 3/8") Back off nut until it is 1 thread past the end of the bolt, install big washer and 1/2" bolt and tighten to lock the nut in storage position.
Later Bob

 

[houser]

Bob, Thanks! What do you mean by "wrap the track" and adjust as tight as you can?

 

[Nige]

Bob, Thanks! What do you mean by "wrap the track" and adjust as tight as you can?

Reconnect the track - initially you would have had it split to get the front idler/tensioner/recoil mechanism out of the machine.
Then pump the track adjusters as tight as you can so the tracks are like bowstrings. That will take as much weight as possible off the big nut on the recoil mechanism. You're not going to move the machine in this state, simply use the track tension to assist you to correctly adjust the recoil mechanism. After that you can set the track tesnion back to "normal".

 

[DMiller]

I just love the variations in English from US to Canada to Australia and GB, we can come up with all sort of wording to say the same thing only many times it can also be fun or funny to read!.

 

[houser]

Thanks for the clarification Nigel! I was thinking the coils and adjusters could be pulled off without removing the tracks. I have to pull the tracks off anyway :Banghead since they are on backwards so it's not like pulling them is going to be more work.

 

[houser]

DMiller - you got to love the language variants; hood, bonnet, hat, ...!

I'm in Leslie, not too far southeast of you. I've driven through Herman many times as I go to Kansas City. Small world!

 

[Bob/Ont]

Big ends, Gudgion pins and "Never labour up a gradient in top gear."

DMiller - you got to love the language variants; hood, bonnet, hat, ...!

I'm in Leslie, not too far southeast of you. I've driven through Herman many times as I go to Kansas City. Small world!