310E diode locations

[SkipBurney]

I think you are right I am going to JD in the morning and order a new one. This should be the last of the big issues with it. There will always be small things like hoses and stuff but this should get it so I can start clearing a section at the end of my runway. When I get it going right I`ll post some pics. I am going to put a thumb on it at some point in the future but right now I just want to get it going well.

 

[mg2361]

I am going to JD in the morning and order a new one

Make sure you get section O-rings. I think the new section comes with a section O-ring, so that means you would need 4 more. Part number T118685.

 

[Tinkerer]

Ok.
It doesn't look like that feeble attempt at a repair was time wasted. I would think a replacement is the only option.

I made a typo error and didn't see it when I post the enlarged image.
I meant to say--- It Looks like that feeble attempt at a repair was time wasted.

 

[SkipBurney]

Make sure you get section O-rings. I think the new section comes with a section O-ring, so that means you would need 4 more. Part number T118685.

View attachment 244594

So you are saying I cant change just that one section but pull it completely apart and put all new o rings in the other sections too. What does that section do anyway I dont see any hoses connected to it unless they are in the back of that block

 

[JL Sargent]

That's exactly what he's saying. You would need a total of 5 section O-rings to reseal all the sections back together if you pull the whole thing. Your situation with it being the end one, does beg the question. Could you disconnect and replace that one section and be back in business?

 

[mg2361]

Could you disconnect and replace that one section and be back in business?

You could but the issue usually is (1) the nuts on the tie bolts may not come off the correct side and there is not enough room to slip them out and (2) once they are loose there is always dirt, debris or grit of some sort between the sections and when loosened they fall down in between the sections. If that happens or if the grit is in the wrong spot it will either leak or could cause a spool to bind. My recommendation is to always pull the complete valve to repair it.

 

[SkipBurney]

What does that block do

 

[JL Sargent]

That's why I asked if you have an extendable dipperstick. Looks like that's what the valve is for.

 

[SkipBurney]

OK so this is what John Deere in Savannah told me, that valve block it’s for an external dipper stick or an external jackhammer since I don’t have either one that valve block is not needed so before I spend the money on a new valve that will never see any pressure they recommended taking the nut off the tie rod cleaning it up real good putting an O-ring and flat washer against it and tighten it back down I will remove all the linkage and pedal going to that valve block so it will never see any high pressure. They do not make a block off plate to replace that valve black wheels so it’s either try that or buy new valve block

 

[boone]

I think I get what you're saying, but from the pictures, you don't have many threads left to be putting washers and rings. Seems it might get you by for a little while if you could manage it. I'm with you, I woudln't want to spend 2 or 3 grand for a valve I don't even use.

Another option would be to replace the cracked valve with the outlet valve. Here's a used one for $350.

https://www.wengers.com/outlet-section-valve-at150304.html

It says it's for a 310D, but it has the part number for the E. It does look a bit different from mine (pictured below).



I'm curious where you're outlet valve is? Is it build into the auxiliary valve? I don't even see it in your pictures.

 

[SkipBurney]

That’s what has got me stumped it has to be in the back somewhere. I sure wish they made a block off plate for that valve. I will stop by JD in Savannah tomorrow and get them to run that p/n and see if it will work. I don’t mind 350 to get it sealed up good but 2 grand hurts big time

 

[SkipBurney]

Well according to JD that block will work so I ordered the block and picked up 5 orings today in Savannah.

 

[SkipBurney]

Well this is what I have behind it under the floor board now I’m not so sure that block will work

 

[boone]

You could probably make it work, but it might require replumbing with new lines, fittings and plugs. Might get a bit involved and spendy.

If it would help, I could get you plumbing diagram on my machine but I only have a 4 valve setup. I can tell you that my outlet feeds the stabilizer valve with one hose and then the big low pressure hose on the side of the outlet goes to the tank or filter. I'd have to get under my machine to see where the big pipe off the stabilizer valve goes.

 

[SkipBurney]

I will finish getting mine off this weekend and the one I ordered from Wengers will be here tuesday and then I will have a better idea of what I am dealing with. After I cleaned it up I started the machine up and that block is leaking from several places. I told my brother today that unlike the transmission I am above the oil leaks and not below them so at least I dont get an oil bath every time I work on it.

 

[SkipBurney]

Well fellas this is what the outlet block looked like. Both lines from it were capped off so I am wondering if it had been dead heading and that had blown out the big o ring. I looked it over and couldn’t see where it was cracked or broken but there had to be a reason someone brazed on it. I am gonna remove the two capped off lines and blank off the ports on the new one

 

[boone]

Skip, I looked over my machine yesterday and am realizing how differently our machines appear to be plumbed. I'm now wondering based on your stabilizer valve picture if your cracked valve is your inlet side?

Here's a side by side of mine on the left (looking from the bottom of machine) and yours on the right looking from the top. There are two lines off my outlet valve, the small line going to the stabilizer and the not pictured big line going to the filter housing. It looks like the big line on your cracked valve is going to the stabilizer valve which tells me that's the high pressure side.

It would be interesting to know where the line off your filter housing is going. That would tell you where your outlet is located. I'm guessing it's on the right side of your valve bank looking from back to front.

 

[SkipBurney]

You are right the line from both the pump and filter go to the block on the right side. It’s tough to get a good pic. I thought that since it was the block on the pump side it was the inlet

 

[SkipBurney]

What puzzles me is why does the pump AND the filter go to the same valve block and that one has no provision for a spool valve or outlet connections

 

[boone]

Sounds like that may be a priority valve? Does it look like this? You can find all this on Deere's online parts catalog.


I think it's purpose is to divert inlet flow to the valves that need it and then if the valves aren't actuated, it diverts back to the filter? Maybe. Wish I could be of more help. This sounds like a totally different animal than mine.