310E diode locations

[SkipBurney]

I am working on a 310E that I bought because the owner said he couldn`t get it to move in any direction, I am going to start with the forward neutral and reverse diodes and then to the solenoids then to the switches on the gearshift and return to dig switch. For some reason this transmission is in neutral. It has plenty of good hydraulic oil in it and the hydraulics work fine. Can someone point me in the right direction to get this thing moving again? Thanks in advance. Skip

 

[mg2361]

Welcome to HEF Skip!

Serial number?

Oil level good? Checked at idle, oil warm.

Concentrate on the clutch cutout buttons first.

 

[Tinkerer]

Welcome to HEF, Skip !

 

[JL Sargent]

It has plenty of good hydraulic oil in it and the hydraulics work fine.

Just to cover a few basics: The big hydraulic oil tank in front of the steering wheel is separate from the hydraulic oil for the transmission. There is a dipstick for the transmission on the R side of the machine. If there is a problem with the trans fluid pressure, this tractor may not move at all. Does the parking brake release? Welcome to HEF!

 

[SkipBurney]

The parking brake works fine, I was told when I bought it that something was wrong in the driveline section of the transmission as bearing parts were in the bellhousing which turned out to be old starter bendix parts from a failed starter sometime ago. I removed the oil tank pulled the transmission checked the forward and reverse clutch packs and internally the transmission is in great shape, the clutch packs are good and the pistons lock them up tight when air is applied to them. For the life of me I do not see a dipstick anywhere on this transmission. There is a fill location on the right side of the engine which goes into the bottom of the trans housing but no dipstick. I cut open the old trans oil filter and it looked fine. I am refilling with new hydraulic oil and filter. The gears in the trans oil pump looked great with little to no wear at all. I checked the 3 solenoids on the side of the trans and they work. When I drained the torque converter the oil that came out was clean as new. I have the trans back in and buttoned up and reconnecting everything but I am thinking it has to be something electrical holding it out either a solenoid a relay a diode or one of the neutral kick out switches. I will get a s/n today and get back to you guys. I hate to think I pulled the transmission and it turns out to be something simple like a relay or switch but all I had to go on was what the previous owner told me. This is a great forum I really appreciate you guys helping me on this

 

[SkipBurney]

S/N on this machine is T0310EX850346

 

[JL Sargent]

You have the Synchro/Shuttle transmission, correct? 4 speed in the floor with the fwd, neutral, rev lever on the steering column. MG can look it up, but with 3 solenoids on the side, you have a 4wd machine?
The solenoids on top of the trans control valve are for forward, neutral, and reverse. I would make sure that electrical connector is mated up properly. The side ones are for MFWD, Diff lock, parking brake.

If the parking brake releases properly, then that means the trans charge pump is making pressure. Certainly seems to be pointing towards an electrical control issue. Those clutch cutout buttons MG mentioned could certainly cause your symptom. Also if the trans is not in gear. I assume you have the 2 manuals for this machine?

 

[SkipBurney]

I have a manual for a G model but things look to be really similar. Yep its a 4wd shuttle shift. Since I cannot find a dipstick on this transmission anywhere I am guessing it is flooded by the hydraulic oil tank but then why would there be a fill cap for it on the right side of the engine. I am waiting on one diode that I found to be bad but I dont think it has anything to do with the transmission. When I drained the transmission before i pulled it about 5 gallons of oil came out of the drain plug. Inside the transmission there was no sign of what I call CLABBER or oil and water mixed. Somewhere there has to be diodes for the FNR solenoids on the top of the transmission I would really like to find and check them but as of yet I haven`t been able to find them. There is a relay behind the instrument panel that I need to check too. If I get it all back togther and cant find whats wrong I may turn to Jack Daniels for relief

 

[SkipBurney]

Well what to my surprise I pulled the fill cap for the transmission and LO and Behold there is a dipstick on the fill cap. Now do I feel like a dummy?

 

[JL Sargent]

LO and Behold there is a dipstick on the fill cap.

So with the machine running on level ground is the correct oil level on the dipstick? If the parking brake releases properly, then I would think the oil is ok. Might be time to take a bright flashlight and inspect the wiring harness. Mice and squirrels like to chew wiring.

 

[SkipBurney]

Cant crank it up yet I`m still putting the transmission back in it, John Deere says it will be 10 days before the new diode comes in. Once I have all of the hoses and harness reconnected I can fill the transmission and hydraulic tank and check for leaks and wait on the diode

 

[mg2361]

I hate to think I pulled the transmission and it turns out to be something simple like a relay or switch

Hate to say it, it is almost never the transmission when there is a loss of both Forward and Reverse at the same time.

The most common reasons for a loss of both forward and reverse on the transmissions in those machines are:

1. Blown F9 FNR/Park Brake Fuse
2. Clutch cutout button (either the loader lever or on the 4 speed shifter) or its associated wiring
3. Faulty FNR lever switch.
4. Stuck Modulation spool in the transmission control valve (rare)

Least common but happens, failure of the transmission pump, pump mounting O-rings, pump suction tube cracked or it's mounting O-ring, all of which you said looks good??

 

[boone]

I'm really curious as to what your problem turns out to be. Please keep us posted.

 

[SkipBurney]

I'm really curious as to what your problem turns out to be. Please keep us posted.

Absolutely will it has been pouring down rain here for the past 2 days and I am waiting on a diode from JD but I will keep everyone posted with what I find. I do have a question can I just use regular hydraulic oil in the transmission or is there something different I need to use. If anyone is interested this is what they look like inside

 

[JL Sargent]

Use John Deere Hygard oil in it. Looks like there might have been be a few flakes on the pickup tube screen?
Were you not tempted to go ahead and rebuild the clutch packs? It is a 20 year old tractor.

 

[boone]

Second the JD Hygard in the trans.

 

[SkipBurney]

I pulled the clutch packs apart thinking I would rebuild them but the ones that were there measured out thicker than new ones and there was no indication of wear on the floaters and the friction discs looked great. I put 100lbs of air on the clutch packs and they locked up solid I`m thinking the new ones are made in China or India or someplace like that. The pickup screen was clean and I flushed it out just to be safe but it was clean as could be

 

[JL Sargent]

I replaced mine a couple of years ago now and the new ones did require a thicker ring but was within overall spec. I found that several of the clutches were separated.

 

[JL Sargent]

Here is what my pickup tube looked like.

 

[boone]

Whoa, JL, that was plugged. Did you notice clutch material in your oil? What were your symptoms?