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310A backhoe Oil Filter O Rings Too big??

lantraxco

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That solenoid valve is supposed to get power only when the starter is cranking, it shuts off the pump to take the drag off so the starter can turn the engine easier.

Standby pressure at the pump is supposed to be between 2,300 and 2,400 psi. Here's a link to a helpful sheet:

https://www.deere.com/en_US/docs/construction/non_current_products/backhoes/310A.pdf

Note the pump inlet charge pressure spec is 55-130 psi at full throttle. Yours is healthy by that standard.
 

comet424

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hmmm so which wire should it be wired off then the brown wire or the other wire as if i reverse it then the damn charging light stays on i guess i need multimeter to see if it comes on when the starter comes on? or i need to run a new wire to it from the starter??

the 2300 2400 psi is that at idle speed or 1500 rpms

least we getting somewhere better now after all this headaches
 

comet424

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so its basiclly working

at 1500 rpms i get 2000 psi

i loosen that top screw nothing happens even though its a tight

do you tighten to increase pressure?
 

comet424

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ah ok ill try it tommorow
i keep loosign oil with the hose as i dont have a special adapter since just a hydraulic hose screwed into leaks

so what is a stroke valve i read you have to pull it out and clean it too to increase pressure too?
 

comet424

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llooking on the JD site the stroke valve its another atachment to the pump? and there is a filter on the bottom of the pump i take it?? and so is that nut on the top of the pump isnt that the stroke valve?

oh and what is the plastic line on the bottom of the pump for ? what does it do?

and if i wanna clean the screen in the pump can i just remove the 4 bolts and spin the pump or am i going to have to pull the rad out out to undue the coupler and and remove the pump?? as i dont think there is room under there to pull out the screen???without loosing lots of oil etc
 

lantraxco

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The stroke control valve is all built into the head of the pump.

The plastic line I believe is a drain for the shaft seal.

Unless it's absolutely not working, just leave it be. There is a strainer screen you can clean by removing a plug on the bottom of the head, but there's also lots of fiddly parts in there with it, easy to lose something or get it back together in the wrong order.
 

comet424

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oh ok so not worth cleaning screen while pump is on machine as its too awkward then

so ill try tightening the top screw then turn it clock wise as at the moment i have it counter clockwise all the way i guess and it was running at 2000psi ill try to tigthen it down to get the 2300-2400 psi at 1500 rpms

if it doesnt increase is it still ok to run at 2000 psi thats what i had before i guessing im guessing thats why it cant lift itself easilly without the extra 400 psi??

if i cant get the 400 psi extra i will have to see if i can order a pump its cheaper in usa but that pump here at john deere is 3500 canadian dollars and with our dollar so bad too lol

but ill give that tightening down soon
 

comet424

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oh i was reading some other articles when they talk about the SUMP with the hydraulic pump what is a sump?

and i read they talk about changing the screen in the resivour is that the screen in the transmission?
 

comet424

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i really need the proper adapter with the O ring on these test ports just threading in a hydraulic hose its not good enough keep loosing oil spraying out

but i running it at 1500rpm a bit more and just around 2000 psi if i tighten the nut down she does nothing till i get close to end and it goes down to nothing... i release it i get back to 2000psi... i can not get it any higher

i guess its good enough for now but it needs a screen cleaning or it be one of those valves or so
 

lantraxco

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i really need the proper adapter with the O ring on these test ports just threading in a hydraulic hose its not good enough keep loosing oil spraying out

but i running it at 1500rpm a bit more and just around 2000 psi if i tighten the nut down she does nothing till i get close to end and it goes down to nothing... i release it i get back to 2000psi... i can not get it any higher

i guess its good enough for now but it needs a screen cleaning or it be one of those valves or so

Okay, I think that's the destroke screw and not the pressure adjustment then. you'll want to leave it all the way unscrewed. Look at the bottom of the pump head, or feel if you can't see... looking for an adjuster screw with a locknut which will be the pressure setting.
 

comet424

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Okay, I think that's the destroke screw and not the pressure adjustment then. you'll want to leave it all the way unscrewed. Look at the bottom of the pump head, or feel if you can't see... looking for an adjuster screw with a locknut which will be the pressure setting.

what does a destroke screw do?? so you want me to unscrew it all the way loose or leave it where it just came up to be 2000 psi ?

ill look tomorow too dark now
 

red68racer

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hello comet434

what does a destroke screw do?? so you want me to unscrew it all the way loose or leave it where it just came up to be 2000 psi ?

ill look tomorow too dark now
the reverer control box took my hydraulic repairman 4 hrs to take apart clean replace gaskets . i not sure he got it right , the shaft coning out to clutch pivot point moves very little , and now my clutch pedal only moves some, and the shaft that comes out of main clutch/release bearing area hardly moves, dont see how clutch can engage /release properly
 

red68racer

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Okay, I think that's the destroke screw and not the pressure adjustment then. you'll want to leave it all the way unscrewed. Look at the bottom of the pump head, or feel if you can't see... looking for an adjuster screw with a locknut which will be the pressure setting.
hello lantraxco
how much does the clutch /release bearing shaft need to move ? i think mine is stuck , hooked linkages up per comets video and double checked jd parts, if i cant get in gear shuttle shift want work .any ideas ?
 

lantraxco

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what does a destroke screw do?? so you want me to unscrew it all the way loose or leave it where it just came up to be 2000 psi ?

ill look tomorow too dark now

It manually does what the solenoid does, essentially puts the pump in neutral so it's not pumping any oil. Yeah, screw it back out until it just stops. I think it you leave it in it may limit the pump flow when you're operating the machine, but I won't swear to it.
 

lantraxco

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hello lantraxco
how much does the clutch /release bearing shaft need to move ? i think mine is stuck , hooked linkages up per comets video and double checked jd parts, if i cant get in gear shuttle shift want work .any ideas ?

Red68racer,

Sorry, if I ever adjusted that linkage it was in the late 80's and I have no recollection of it. Maybe somebody else here is familiar, or better yet has the manual for instructions. As I recall from the book, you push the pedal down until you hit greater resistance, at that point the reverser should neutralize. If you push it all the way down, the mechanical clutch disconnects the drive train from the engine, which I believe is only to help get her started.
 

lantraxco

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Yeah, furthest away from the camera, you got the big fitting nut, the small nut up against it which is the jam nut, and the screw sticking out just a thread or two. Loosen the jam nut, the adjuster screw will be either allen which I think it is, or possibly slotted for a screwdriver. Go half a turn at a time tighter and snug up the jam nut each time before checking with your gauge. If the pressure doesn't change don't go more than a turn, you'll have to look for other problems.
 

comet424

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oh ok why what happens if you turn more then 1 turn

i gotta try to get a new fitting i read the side ports use a 3/8" -24unf fitting and i just been screwing in my 1/4" hyrdaulic hose with gauge on the end.. no wonder it always leaked out the oil testing lol.. but it worked


today snow good thing i worked till 10pm last night just to get the hoses hooked up etc
 

lantraxco

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I'm just saying that if the pressure doesn't come up as you adjust, stop and look for another problem. It's a fairly common thing on systems with gear pumps for people to screw the relief valve adjusters all the way in trying to get the pressure up when the problem is a worn pump or a bypass somewhere. When it gets bad enough they finally fix the actual problem the relief valve is still screwed all the way in and something breaks the first time they fire it up due to the now high pressure.
 
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