1985 Case 1155D engine removal

[Bobcat Crazy]

Well I received two more parts today. A replacement connecting rod for replacing the one on the journal where the crank broke. It was only a couple thousands out but I was afraid to reuse it. But @ $342 I'm glad I only needed one. And a flexplate at $225.

The good: the connecting rod was the correct part and is already installed on the piston and ready to roll when I get to that point.
The bad: The flexplate is the wrong one and has to be returned for the correct one . See pics below for the difference.

 

[Bobcat Crazy]

Ordering parts for an old machine is sooooooooo much fun!!!

 

[Cat977]

B-C nice to hear about your progress!!
I was thinking that flex plate was made of multiple disks? I look at that one and it looks pretty thick and ridged.
How thick is the right one?
If its a stack, could you stack them and take a few pictures at a couple different angles?
As Always Best of Luck

 

[Bobcat Crazy]

Hi Cat,
Here is one pic I took of the old flexplate components. I will take some others when I get home today. The new (wrong) flexplate has two layers riveted together where the nuts are attached (see in the pics above) at every other (outer) bolting hole which makes it appear ridged like, however there are only 2 plates. I would say they are a max of 1/16 inch total, but I can measure it to see for sure.

The old flexplate has 3 layers which are not riveted together (see below) and they are almost paper thin. I will say that the total thickness of it is 1/16 inch or less as well. And then it has the 3 smaller plates (pictured) which I assume they are to add an extra amount of rigidity to the center (inner) bolting area.

Thanks,
B-C

B-C

 

[Tinkerer]

 

[Cat977]

Sure looks like a very unforgiving ridged coupling system. What's good no maintenance! I very much didn't like the cleaning and regreasing of gear couplings!!! This type can handle a little angular/tipped miss alignment. Its parallel/straight centerline that's important. If all the housings were turned true, the alinement would be set automatically. If you have to adjust the location of the housings it sounds like a hard job. In my opinion you would need to drill and pin it to keep in place then. If its hard to get the bolts in the flex plate to engine B-Crazy you may have some trouble later. I assume the bolts are perfect size in size (1/2" bolt in 1/2" hole) and perfectly located. Anyway.... I don't think you plan to turn it into a money maker so close should be good enough.
Best of Luck

 

[Tinkerer]

A flex-plate between a flywheel and torque convertor helps the balance of the engine.
I would think that the end play of the engine crankshaft is somewhat prevented from being transferred to the torque convertor. IMHO.
I have never seen bolts that are a tight fit in the flex-plate holes.
The torque convertor should be turned slightly in the direction the engine turns it and held there.
before tightening the bolts. That is done to help the alignment of the assembly.
Especially when BCrazy has a stack of plates.

 

[Cat977]

I agree on helping balance the engine, I would think its like an additional fly wheel with kind of dampener because of the flexing of the plates. I really love this type of coupling when its character works well in the design plan. I like it in this application, but think when you have the engine out unless its like New replace it. The little bit of flexing over thousands of hours must make them brittle and be bound to crack and brake sooner or latter. Here's a picture of one We used in the Power Plant. There's like 8 independent laminations that make up the ring. The bolts have no threads where they go through the rings and have a snug fit.

 

[Bobcat Crazy]

I agree on helping balance the engine, I would think its like an additional fly wheel with kind of dampener because of the flexing of the plates. I really love this type of coupling when its character works well in the design plan. I like it in this application, but think when you have the engine out unless its like New replace it. The little bit of flexing over thousands of hours must make them brittle and be bound to crack and brake sooner or latter. Here's a picture of one We used in the Power Plant. There's like 8 independent laminations that make up the ring. The bolts have no threads where they go through the rings and have a snug fit.

This is a nice picture Cat and it looks exactly like something the Power Company can afford! Unfortunately a backyard shadetree (like me) usually have to go with the old rusty stuff similar to the pics I posted.

 

[Bobcat Crazy]

B-C nice to hear about your progress!!
I was thinking that flex plate was made of multiple disks? I look at that one and it looks pretty thick and ridged.
How thick is the right one?
If its a stack, could you stack them and take a few pictures at a couple different angles?
As Always Best of Luck

Hey Cat, you had asked for some pics of the FP, I have just gotten back around to getting some more. I will post them below, I think I will have to post them on two different pages below because I have 7 of them and I can only post 4 per page. I have the old stack of plates clamped together with a pair of vice grips because they are are so bent up and/or wavy. If you look closely you can see the vice grips behind the caliper.

B-C

 

[Bobcat Crazy]

Hey Cat, you had asked for some pics of the FP, I have just gotten back around to getting some more. I will post them below, I think I will have to post them on two different pages below because I have 7 of them and I can only post 4 per page. I have the old stack of plates clamped together with a pair of vice grips because they are are so bent up and/or wavy. If you look closely you can see the vice grips behind the caliper.

B-CView attachment 246140 View attachment 246141 View attachment 246142 View attachment 246143

And a few more FP pics. The first pic below is in inches, the other two are in MM.

 

[Cat977]

Thanks B-Crazy
I was curious how they looked stacked up. I'm pretty amazed at how they transfer all that Horsepower thru those skinny little plates!!! Keep up the good Work!!!

 

[Bobcat Crazy]

Thanks B-Crazy
I was curious how they looked stacked up. I'm pretty amazed at how they transfer all that Horsepower thru those skinny little plates!!! Keep up the good Work!!!

I also am amazed at this design. I could not believe that these little plates bolted to the flywheel with little 5/16 bolts was the transfer coupling for all of the power a track loader or a bulldozer has. I thought sure I was missing something but that is indeed the design. And it is well proven over the many years these machines have been operating.

 

[Bobcat Crazy]

Good evening Guys!
I am still in a holding pattern waiting on a few parts and the machine shop but I need your help with something. As I am getting the miscellaneous items ready while I am waiting for everything to get in place for the reassembly, I was looking for the timing marks on the injector pump. I have the manual now so I know what I am looking for but the pump rotor (may not be the correct term) has 2 marks on it and neither look like a real factory mark.

The first 2 pics below are of the long mark which I think is the right mark but if you look closely it is not straight like a factory make usually is. The 3rd pic is of the shorter mark which is deeper and more visible but it is not straight like a factory mark should be. I realize that in the pics none of the marks are lined up with the indicator mark, I had to position the rotor for best picture of the marks on it.

Also neither of the marks will line up with the indicator mark when the rotor is at rest if you understand what I am saying on that.

Any ideas how I can tell which is the real mark?

 

[Tinkerer]

Only thepumpguysc can answer that question ! IMHO of course.
I'll try and to remember to snap a photo for you of my cam bearing tool tomorrow.

 

[Bobcat Crazy]

Good evening Guys!
Just a short update tonight, not much to tell, still waiting for heads, injectors, sleeves to find their way home for the machine shop. My cam bushings came in so I did make a little progress today. I have changed the bushings and re-installed the cam so it looks a little better. See pic below. Still a long way to go but not as long as when I started!

Once the parts come home I hope the looks of the mostly empty block change in a hurry. I had little to do with the engine today so I spent so time getting the lights working so a little at at a time as they say Rome wasn't built in a day and neither was my machine!

I am looking forward to knocking down some stuff when I get Sweetheart back together!

B-Crazy
B-Crazy

 

[Bobcat Crazy]

Hey Guys, I hope you are all having a good Sunday!
I may have an issue with my loader (another issue that is). I was reading the manual trying to get a head start on some of the adjustments and things I might need to do once I get the engine back together and one of those items is the injector pump and ignition timing.

My manual says the I should either have one of these two pumps (see below 1st pic). And the instructions say if you don't have the right pump to change it for the correct pump.

However the pump I have is neither of the two (see 2nd pic below).

My pump is a (see 2nd pic below) and the instructions in the manual say to install the correct pump if I do not have the correct pump installed on it. (That can be really expensive for a big boy toy to play around the house with)!

I know the loader runs with this pump as they were using it before the crankshaft broke and I drove it off of the trailer and up on some crossties before I started the rebuild process. The manual gives me the ignition timing setting for each of the two pumps listed and they are different for each. So I have no idea how many degrees to set this pump at on this machine.

Any of you Guys have any guidance for me on this one?
All this may be questions for Pump Guy if anyone knows how to reach him.

B-Crazy

 

[Tinkerer]

Rotated for the pumpguysc !

 

[mekanik]

I suspect the lower number is the idle speed times two for 750 RPM
and the second number 1050 is the peak HP speed times two 2100RPM.
If it was mine it would go back on.
What is the timing procedure in the manual?

 

[Bobcat Crazy]

I suspect the lower number is the idle speed times two for 750 RPM
and the second number 1050 is the peak HP speed times two 2100RPM.
If it was mine it would go back on.
What is the timing procedure in the manual?

For the two listed in the book one sets at 29 degrees BTDC the other at 30 degrees BTDC and the line up the mark on the pump rotor with the indicator mark. The timing is pretty simple except for not knowing which is the good mark on the pump rotor and not knowing what degree BTDC to set for this pump.

So if I understand what you are saying about the pump correctly are you saying that I should set the ignition timing at 29.5 degrees since the peak RPM seems to be 2100 which is between the two listed pumps?