1985 Case 1155D engine removal

[Bobcat Crazy]

I don't think this screen was designed this way ! That doesn't keep much out of the oil pump and engine.

Now it is like the age old chicken and the egg question.

Did the large hole in the pick up screen allow something to be sucked into the engine that caused the engine failure? Or did the metal bearings parts running around in the oil pan cut the screen after the bearing went bad? I vote for the latter.

On this one. I still don't know about the chicken and the egg!

 

[Bobcat Crazy]

Well the engine begins to look better once you start adding new parts. Even though I am still waiting on several parts to be delivered, at lease I received crank and the gaskets so that I could put the heavy part in. That new crank resting in place with the mains torqued down, turning smooth, and the new back seal being in place makes me feel better.

 

[Bobcat Crazy]

Okay my new sweetheart is resting and waiting for more new parts to arrive next week.

Hey if you guys don't tell, my wife will never know where these tops went! I told her she needed some new ones! I guess this is one way to help her get started shopping for new ones. I was tired of these colors! Hey they are nice thick top and they make awesome mechanic rags!!


B-Crazy

 

[Bobcat Crazy]

Alright Sweetheart you can rest easy now. I have more new parts coming next week that will make you feel so much better and hopefully get you mostly buttoned up next week in the evenings.

Next weekend I am manager on duty so I don't guess I can work on it next weekend. When I am manager on duty that means I have to work 7 days straight, but if I'm waiting on parts I guess it is a good time to work so I will have a couple of days off the following week. Hopefully most all of my parts will be in by then so I can really roll with my sweetheart after next week!

Just to be safe I put the big pan over everything just in case the wife happens through the shop. If she finds those tops in the engine she will not be half as happy as I am about that.

Also if she finds them in my new sweetheart I may not live to see sweetheart run again!!!

And who is the Boss at my house? Well of course I am the Boss at my house, and I run things here too just like I want them run! The vacuum cleaner, the dishwasher, and certainly the washer, dryer, and etc, etc..........

I hope you enjoy my humor tonight!!!!!

B-Crazy

 

[Tinkerer]

Be sure to shim the oil pump correctly to get the it's drive gear and crankshaft gear backlash to Case specs.
Too tight or too loose will be a disaster !
Do you have the service manual ?

 

[Bobcat Crazy]

Be sure to shim the oil pump correctly to get the it's drive gear and crankshaft gear backlash to Case specs.
Too tight or too loose will be a disaster !
Do you have the service manual ?

Hi Tink,
Yes I now have a service manual that I bought off line. I would not say that it is the greatest that I have owned but it will do. I have just today purchased a dial indicator from amazon and it should be here tomorrow.

The old pump had 6 shims under it so I assume to shimming should be similar but who knows if it was shimmed correctly? I don't for sure. I have already read the manual on the setup/backlash measurements on the oil pump and the injection pump. I have never used a dial indicator before but I'm sure I can figure it out.

Thanks again for trying to keep me on the right track!

B-Crazy

 

[Bobcat Crazy]

Here ya go B-C !!
View attachment 245360 View attachment 245361 View attachment 245362

Tink,
I assume this is a 3/4 bolt with a thread pitch of 20. I know the thread pitch from my pitch gauge in my tap set. The local hardware stores here do not carry a bolt of that size and pitch. Did you have to order the one you used or did you find it at a local supplier?

My tach cable was toast so I cut the end off of it and tried to make a tool similar to yours using that piece when I could not find the correct bolt locally. I braced the threaded end from the cable to a coupling nut so that I could screw a bolt into it and then set it up like yours. Mine is in there so tight that it pulled the braze joint apart, and it still has not even wiggled.

I work in a bigger town than where I live so I will try to find the 3/4 X 20 bolt tomorrow before I come home, but if I can't find one I will order one online.

B-C

 

[Tinkerer]

You cut the cable housing.
The tach cable core is still available from CNH dealers.
I purchased the bolt at Fastenal. I had to buy a bag of them. It was the only way they sold them.
It is a wheel lug bolt.
You don't need a dial indicator to set that backlash. Although that is the best way to set it.
IF you are experienced with feeler gauges the correct blade works quite well.
I usually cut a piece of the end off of the blade. Not the entire end. Just enough off the side to be able to get the blade between the gears.
It doesn't matter how the pump was set to the old crankshaft. You have shim it correctly to the new one.
Ideally a new pump should be installed along with a new gear, if it doesn't come with one on it.

 

[Bobcat Crazy]

You cut the cable housing.
The tach cable core is still available from CNH dealers.
I purchased the bolt at Fastenal. I had to buy a bag of them. It was the only way they sold them.
It is a wheel lug bolt.
You don't need a dial indicator to set that backlash. Although that is the best way to set it.
IF you are experienced with feeler gauges the correct blade works quite well.
I usually cut a piece of the end off of the blade. Not the entire end. Just enough off the side to be able to get the blade between the gears.
It doesn't matter how the pump was set to the old crankshaft. You have shim it correctly to the new one.
Ideally a new pump should be installed along with a new gear, if it doesn't come with one on it.

Tach cable housing was beyond repair, had a hole in the side of it and the cable part was worn into two pieces. TractorParts has one on the way.

I have some old lugs laying around I will check on those this evening or tomorrow. Cool advice!

I had one injector that was stuck in the head really bad and the lug nut from my Bobcat S185 was the same thread as the line connection threads on the top of the injector so that made a nice size hunk of metal so I could get a prybar on to get the injector out. (prying in the correct angle of course)

I am a prime member with Am*z*n so I can return the dial indicator for free! I am much more comfortable working with a feeler gauge. I am certainly "old school".

Hopefully at over $500 the oil pump will have a new gear on it. If not what is another hundred or tow at this point? Who said that ? was it me saying that ? I am looking all around and I don't see anyone else typing on this computer so it must have been me ! Somnething must be wrong with my thought process today!!!

But really if I get this thing running and all the other components are in working condition it will be worth it and I will be able to play with this toy for years to come no more than I will run it.

But if I get back together and everything on it needs repair I will have an 1155D with a newly rebuilt engine for sale that needs work on other items!

Wow I sure hope that is not the case! If it is I will truly Be Crazy!! and not just what I am called on here!!!!

B-Crazy

 

[Tinkerer]

Oh MY !!
Thank you for brightening my BCrazy !!!
That has to be the most informative and humorous post I have read in a long time.
I figured you were "old school" like so many of us on HEF.
I don't believe for even a second that you will ever part (ooops wrong word !) sell your money pit.
Unless your wife murders you !
Messin with her tops is flirting with disaster.
Thanks for explaining about the tach cable, I was worried about your sanity for a bit.

 

[Tinkerer]

Oh MY !!
Thank you for brightening my BCrazy !!!

I meant to type--- Thank you for brightening my day BCrazy !!!

 

[Cat977]

Lots of Fun Following this Thread!!!

 

[sealark37]

Looking at the pictures of the crankshaft, it is plain that the failure started at the fillet of the main journal. Most likely the fillet was not profiled properly after grinding the main journal undersize. This sharp corner created a stress riser which developed the crack.

 

[Bobcat Crazy]

Lots of Fun Following this Thread!!!

I'm glad you Guys get a little laugh out of this. Sometimes people do not get my weird sense of humor. Hey we may as well have a little fun at this right?

 

[Bobcat Crazy]

Looking at the pictures of the crankshaft, it is plain that the failure started at the fillet of the main journal. Most likely the fillet was not profiled properly after grinding the main journal undersize. This sharp corner created a stress riser which developed the crack.

So we have all kinds of people on here from Crazies like me, that just don't know they can't do this kind of stuff, too all you Guys that really know the technical side of things like Sealark here. No Matter what it is or how technical it is there is someone out there that knows what happens with these machines when they go kaput!

 

[Bobcat Crazy]

Okay here is the installment for tonight. Thanks to Tink for the idea of how he built his tool (pics of his tool are on page 6 of this thread) to remove the tach drive assembly I was successful in building my own and I finally got that sucker out tonight and it was really in there tight. I searched and searched for a bolt that would fit the threads where the tach cable housing screws into the drive assembly but never found anyone who had one. So lets face it, not only is Tink smarter than me he it more resourceful as well.

My tach cable and housing was toast so after spending many hours looking for a bolt I finally cut the end off of the cable and used that to build my tool. Tink almost flipped out when I said I cut the end off of my cable housing but that was before he understood that my housing was toast too and not just the the inner cable. Once Tink understood that it was no good before I cut the end off of it he forgave me for killing the cable housing and let me back on the site! only kidding (on letting me back on the site/forum ).

I will post pics of my tool at the bottom but I can tell you right up front that tool is not as classy or as sexy as the one Tink built but het it worked just the same.

When I looked at the cost of replacing the cable and housing at $170 as opposed to replacing the drive assembly at $405 it was a no brainer. And being mine was already beyond repair I has to spend the $170 anyway.

Okay I am posting my pics below but don't be laughing at my roundabout way of building it because it worked just the same and I already had the items I used in my garage, other than the time I spent looking the bolt that I never found my parts were free. The steering puller I used after cutting one side off was toast as well because I had killed the thread in it by abusing it while pulling the cam gear off of a Cummins 4 cyl in a skidsteer so that tool had well paid for itself already!

Have a great night Guys!
B-Crazy

PS.
My wife has still not found out I used her tops for grease rags on my new Sweetheart. That is soooo funny! as long as she does not find out!

 

[Tinkerer]

I certainly am no smarter than you BCrazy !
Your drive puller is as good as they get ! I am wondering if you need a new tachometer. A new one at a CNH dealer will bring tears to your eyes when you see the price.
PM me your wife's email address !!
Keep us posted on the rebuild progress.
Do you have camshaft bearing removal/installer tool ?
I have a machinist make mine. The last one I had made was only $20.00. I had it made 3 inches long so that I could scribe a straight line on it. I put the center of the bearing oil hole on the line. Then I would look down the oil galley and put that scribed line in the center of it. Guaranteed perfect alignment of the cam bearing oil hole when I pulled the bearing in with a long piece of all thread.
Nothing is more frustrating than to install a cam bearing only to look down the oil galley and only see half the bearing hole !
I am sure you know this, but there some inexperienced folks reading this and it may help them.

 

[Bobcat Crazy]

I appreciate the vote of confidence Tink.

1. My smarts are yet to be determined I haven't tried to crank Sweetheart yet!
2. If it needs a new tach I doubt it will get a Case brand. Bad on pocketbook!
3. There will be no wife's address sharing until Sweetheart is running and these tops are long gone I was born at night, but it was not last night!!
4. Do you have any pics of the one you had made? It may be better for this job that the store bought one that I have. It sounds like it is.

You Guys just continue to amaze me with he things you are teaching me. Tool design, old school mechanic technique, which is the only kind I know anyway!
Thanks!!
B-Crazy

 

[Bobcat Crazy]

Hey Guys,
Oil pump question, see pics below. I'm sure I can change out the extra pipe connector on the new oil for the plug on my old pump which will make the new one identical to the old one. Am I missing anything? I assume the new pump with the 2 pipe connection fittings is just for a newer model than mine and the pressure the pump makes will be the same.

Is this correct?

 

[Bobcat Crazy]

Hey Tink,
I checked out the tach today with my battery drill and a short piece of the chain/inner cable which was broken. The tach seems to work fine, my drill runs 600 RPMs in low reverse and 2400 RPMs in high reverse.

I ran it a couple of minutes each time and it turned freely and smooth so hopefully it is fine. Thanks for mentioning it I had not thought of checking that until you mentioned it.

B-C