d9gdon
Senior Member
I've welded them before with success.
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CAT D3 Project part 2
- Thread starter AllDodge
- Start date
Called my local NAPA and they mentioned brazing them. I took them over to the local welder and he brazed them up, 15 for both. I probably could have done it, have all the stuff, but never did it much. Well worth the 15 and then some to have someone that does it all the time do it for me. Thanks
kshansen
Senior Member
- Joined
- Mar 11, 2012
- Messages
- 11,165
- Location
- Central New York, USA
- Occupation
- Retired Mechanic in Stone Quarry
If you have a good industrial hose shop near by you might be able to have them make new ones up. I know the place we deal with near here does it. Not sure how much you would save. I'm guessing the ends have male JIC threads for the swivel on the hose. You could probably use a heating tip on a torch and get them off and reuse them on some new tubing. They are most likely silver soldered on. Just make sure new tubing is as thick as the original so it can take the pressure.
Not one of those around here and as you say, it would probably cost me about as much. Got them all brazed up and put some thick wall hose around the rub areas.
Hope this will keep it working for some time. if not well more hydraulic fluid and buy new lines. I've gotten pretty good at draining the tank, wish I wasn't.
Not sure and I hope I'm wrong but I noticed some fresh oil in the back under the battery. There is enough oil back there dripping down the out side to make me notice. The hydraulic tank is on the right but I cannot find if it's leaking. The bevel gear and brake housing is under where I see the oil. Washed the thing all out with hope to find where it's coming from.
Diesel Injection service came by this morning and fix my leak on the bonnet. Was real happy with the work and a number one company.
Found the other leak under the seat which was leaking hydraulic fluid. Brazed it up and took it across the road and started working it. Worked real nice, trans work without an issue.
After about 20 minutes I notice my oil pressure going lower then noticed the heat almost to the red zone. Shut it down and I'm letting it cool off. Just put in a new thermostat and had the radiator looked at. The thermostat was an after market from Forrest parts or something like that. When I filled the radiator I opened up the steel line between the thermostat and the head to get the air out. Don't know what could be causing the heat, but if need be I'll pull the thermostat.
Found the other leak under the seat which was leaking hydraulic fluid. Brazed it up and took it across the road and started working it. Worked real nice, trans work without an issue.
After about 20 minutes I notice my oil pressure going lower then noticed the heat almost to the red zone. Shut it down and I'm letting it cool off. Just put in a new thermostat and had the radiator looked at. The thermostat was an after market from Forrest parts or something like that. When I filled the radiator I opened up the steel line between the thermostat and the head to get the air out. Don't know what could be causing the heat, but if need be I'll pull the thermostat.
At the risk of sounding insulting, I have been known to put the thermostat in upside down. Once. LOL
Also, I usually drill about an 1/8" hole in the thermostat if it doesn't have one already, sort of a brute force way to insure the air bleeds from the block.
:my2c
Also, I usually drill about an 1/8" hole in the thermostat if it doesn't have one already, sort of a brute force way to insure the air bleeds from the block.
:my2c
Thanks, no offence taken, I've been known to do several bone head things. Did check the manual after the over heat and it is it properly. Did not notice if it had the hole but also the manual stated to make sure the hole was facing up, didn't make sure of that. Will do some checking tomorrow
HATCHEQUIP
Senior Member
something else is the fan on the correct way for the rotation and curve of the blades, and the rpms didn't start lugging down did they, hope not
Blades draw air in from the sides and push out through the front. Rpm's stayed level and responded to me giving it more and less throttle
stumper120
Well-Known Member
Where did you get your oil pump? What did it cost
kshansen
Senior Member
- Joined
- Mar 11, 2012
- Messages
- 11,165
- Location
- Central New York, USA
- Occupation
- Retired Mechanic in Stone Quarry
Not sure if you have a reversible fan, one where each blade can be rotated individually, but we had a machine once whre someone missed one blade and had it opposite the other and this caused an overheat problem.
The pump came from CAT, cost $450 as I remember
The blades are fixed non-movable. Going to go under the impression that there was an air bubble in it, don't know how. Going to fill it back up this AM and run it and keep checking on it to see if the coolant goes down when the thermostat opens. Didn't check that the first time I filled it up, just cracked the steel line between the stat and head.
Pulled the thermostat and I'm sure the stat is the issue. The opening which allows water to pass is to small, only about 7/8 inch. I put it in a pan and heated it up, the stat opened around 180 degrees. Put the dozer back together without the stat and ran it most the day with no problems. It was a little cool running but was to be expected.
Only issue I'm having now is need more time on the dozer to figure out how to get things level and smooth. Figure half my problem is me not being responsive enough with the controls and the other 1/2 is it could use some new pins and bushings. There is some play in the blade.
Only issue I'm having now is need more time on the dozer to figure out how to get things level and smooth. Figure half my problem is me not being responsive enough with the controls and the other 1/2 is it could use some new pins and bushings. There is some play in the blade.
BrentPD3
New Member
I'm digging up an old post. I bought a D3B dozer with 3204 engine. The machine runs great but has blow by when running hard and hot. I figured it's time to freshen the motor up. I have bought an inframe rebuild kit. I have dropped the belly pan and all counter weights. I'm ready to drop the oil pan. Only problem is there is a huge crossmember directly under the pan. My question is: Is there enough clearance for the pan to drop or do I need to pull the engine? I don't really want to do that if not needed. Thank you!
Not sure you can do an in block overhaul. The motor doesn't have wet sleeves and with blow by your going to have issues. Think your going to need to bore and use press fit sleeves the way mine was done
dieseldog5.9
Senior Member
So, can you get the oil pan out with the engine still in the machine?
Welder Dave
Senior Member
I have a 931B that I had to pull the engine out of twice. It's the loader version of a D3B and has a few more issues but I don't think there is a way to remove the pan without pulling the engine. On my machine the engine and trans. have to come out as a complete unit and you have to remove the trans. mounts to have enough clearance. I've heard the dozer is easier but I'd recommend removing the oil filter before pulling and before reinstalling. It's real easy to dent in such a tight space. Cat will have a procedure telling all the steps required.
I don't see the pan coming off without taking it out, its to close to the cross member. Took mine out by unbolting the trans from the motor. Hardest part (or at least once everything else was removed) where 2 bolts on the side of the bell housing.
spitzair
Senior Member
On my 977H I was able to unbolt the main frame from the track frame and jack the front of the machine up enough to get the oil pan out with the cross member in place. Not sure though how similar the 977H is to the 931 or the D3B...
dieseldog5.9
Senior Member
I just want to inspect the bottom end, I bought a basket case and the engine may or may not have been pulled apart thought if I pulled the pan I could get some verification of bottom end. Thought maybe lifting engine with crane after removing motor mounts may work. In alldodges post the pictures looked like the pan was removed with the engine installed in the machine.