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Section for komatsu d20,21 and similar grey market dozers

darinray

Charter Member
Joined
Nov 15, 2003
Messages
435
Location
Delevan, NY
Occupation
Owner-Equipment & Parts Sales
I have a D20-6, sn 60358. Does anyone know what size the bolts are that hold the collar around the main blade ball? A guy at one place puts a 24mm nut on it and says "it's a 24 mm". A guy at another place pulls caliper type thing out of his pocket and says "it's a 22 mm". I'm wondering "what's 2 mm among friends".

Thanks
Ronnie

2mm isn't much difference. :) Just playing... According to the part number it is 24mm X 90mm long
 

darinray

Charter Member
Joined
Nov 15, 2003
Messages
435
Location
Delevan, NY
Occupation
Owner-Equipment & Parts Sales
I have a D21P-6 and I am looking for the part number and availability of a few things. One is the clutch pedal return spring. It is mounted at the end of the clutch cable and is secured to the side of the transmission. This is the spring that gives your clutch pedal its springy feel. The other one is a rubber bushing/elastomeric that is located at the end of the left angle blade cylinder. Right where the tilt cylinder and the angle cylinder mount there is a rubber bushing on the top and bottom of each cylinder end to prevent metal to metal contact. It appears that all the cylinders have this where they attach to the blade. Any help is appreciatied

113-43-11291 changed to 113-43-11294 spring..

104-72-21990 rubber bushing
 

sethc

Member
Joined
Aug 20, 2010
Messages
10
Location
nor cal
tranny metal at change oil

Any one have an opinion on fine metal being on tranny plug some buildup was there it was really fine and some small chards is this normal? There was some when i changed my trans oil.
 

thehaas

New Member
Joined
Sep 19, 2010
Messages
3
Location
new jersey
on my new dozer or should i say used dozer there 3 dipsticks one is under the hood which i know is the oil stick, then there is one right underneath the seat what is this one?and what is the one underneath the brake peddle on the right.Also what specific fluid should i use on each one.
thank you for your time and have a nice day

P.S how do i tighten my tracks

1st dip stick under pettals clutch 10 30 motor oil 2nd back bevel gear assembly 10 30 motor oil final drives at each wheel 10 30 took around 11 gal oil engine used royal purple 15w 40
 

thehaas

New Member
Joined
Sep 19, 2010
Messages
3
Location
new jersey
tracks lay straight edge on top measure sag grease fitting under cover pumps up pushing front wheel foward reg grease gun
 

jzjr09

New Member
Joined
Sep 27, 2010
Messages
1
Location
white plains
i have a d31p dont know the year pull levers for steering anyway below my seat is a compartment with 3 dipsticks right left center can u help me what type of fluid do i use in these areas
 

monkey

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 4, 2010
Messages
136
Location
lousyana
don't quote me on this, don't have the maintenance book with me
I think they are 30w oil

wait for somebody else to chime in
 

Danny B

Active Member
Joined
Jun 28, 2008
Messages
42
Location
Checotah, OK
I was having fuel problems. Have gotten to the age that fingers are all thumbs sometimes. Lost small black rubber part that sets on spring. Working in the woods and fell between dozer and track. Looked several times, no luck. I think it is part of the fuel pump that is mounted on side of injector pump. Its my guess that it is a backflow preventer. Is that correct? Can get D21 to fire up for few seconds only. Please educate me on this.
Thanks.
 

Dr Komatsu

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 29, 2010
Messages
65
Location
United Kingdom
From memory the only rubber or plastic parts are the rubber seal rings on all the banjo bolts or the plastic valve on that has a spring on the fuel priming pump itself.

Hope this helps.
 

Danny B

Active Member
Joined
Jun 28, 2008
Messages
42
Location
Checotah, OK
Yes. It must be what you are talking about. It is about the size of a pencil eraser only about twice as long with a larger base on the botton end. If this is left out, would it prevent it from running. I could get it to run for a few seconds, varying from a few sputters to 15 to 20 seconds. Is this unit on the side of the injector with the primer considered the fuel pump also?
I have had to replace the fuel filter canister several times due to crud in the tank. Did a little more serious flushing of the tank and added an inline filter in front of reg filter. Could this be causing fuel flow problems?
Thanks for any advise.
 

darinray

Charter Member
Joined
Nov 15, 2003
Messages
435
Location
Delevan, NY
Occupation
Owner-Equipment & Parts Sales
Not sure if I missed you stating this or not so I'll ask. Did you clean out the banjo fitting on the bottom of the primer (lift) pump which is mounted on teh side of teh injector pump? It is a screen that will clog up on you causing no starts or starts and then stalls. Crack your bleeder screw on the top of the fuel filter to see if you primer pump is actually priming the system. Keep us posted.
 

Dr Komatsu

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 29, 2010
Messages
65
Location
United Kingdom
The missing part is from the hand priming pump assy.
It is the fuel lift pump that the hand priming pump is attatched too.
You have Fuel priming > Fuel lift pump > Fuel injection pump.
As darinray says you need to check the gauze filter on the inlet hose going into the priming pump. You will need to replace the missing as it helps to maintain the low pressure supply circuit.
This should be available to order seperately or as part of the hand priming pump assy.
 

Danny B

Active Member
Joined
Jun 28, 2008
Messages
42
Location
Checotah, OK
I had read here where you had talked about the screen. I was looking for it when I lost the part.
Are you saying the screen is below the hand operated priming pump? Not where I found the part I lost that was attached to a spring?

I have got to get one of those manuals on CD.
 

darinray

Charter Member
Joined
Nov 15, 2003
Messages
435
Location
Delevan, NY
Occupation
Owner-Equipment & Parts Sales
It is on the bottom of the hand primer inside the bolt that holds the suction fuel line on the bottom of pump. Pinch off the line between the tank and the fitting so you don't take too big of a fuel shower. :) Before putting the suction back in I normally blow air back into the tank through this line then reinstall.
 

Danny B

Active Member
Joined
Jun 28, 2008
Messages
42
Location
Checotah, OK
Thanks guys. My son and I took apart the banjo bolt that holds the very small plastic screen filter. That little bugger had so much crud in it you could plant potatos. Cleaned it up, but still would not run but a short time after filling the lines and regular canister filter. Pulled doxer forward enough to look under where it had quit. Found the little black part I lost. Found it will not creat fuel pressure with it missing. Ran like a top after putting it back in. Used it about 6 hours this afternoon.
Follow up question. The inline filter I installed in between the pump and the canister filter. It is clear plastic so as the day went by we could see it was catching some crud. Then we noticed the element was colapsing. Has anyone else tried this extra filter idea?
Thanks again.
 

reddog848

Active Member
Joined
Aug 22, 2008
Messages
38
Location
Canton, Tx
Occupation
retired
Inline filter

You can't use that type of pre filter ahead of the pump. BTDT, it will collapse from the suction of the pump. Tried one on my BD G2 and it lasted about 1 day.
Just bite the bullet and change your main filters until the crude stops coming from the tank. The other and harder solution is to clean the tank...:mad:. I had rather change the filters but it does get a little expensive.:eek:
Fred
 
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