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Section for komatsu d20,21 and similar grey market dozers

Wylie5

Active Member
Joined
Dec 12, 2009
Messages
34
Location
Euroa, Victoria, Australia.
Occupation
Weed Control Contractor
Re:Grouser Relugging

Hi Danny B,
You could use re-o-bar instead of key way bar, as the concreters re-o-bar is the same steel martrial, but at a much cheeper cost in Austustalia than key way bar, just an idear for you. And is easy to buy in long lengths & cut to size also welding, as it is round so you can get good penatration when welding, as if you were to use the Keywar bar you would have to grind an edge on both side to get a good weld, You probly need to weld the keyway bar/re-o-bar on a bit sooner thou.

Cheers Wheelybin.




I need to get more traction. I can tell my D21 has more push than I can get to the ground. I'll try to post a picture to show what I think my problem is. The flat plates on the track are approx 1 inch. My son and a friend on his suggested I weld some 1 inch key stock to the flat plates. Any comments on that idea or other options would be appreciated.
 

dav3

Member
Joined
May 19, 2010
Messages
8
Location
CA, 96003 D20P-7e #78705
"Frozen" fill plug in Final Drive

5-19-10, Need some good ideas how to free up a frozen fill plug in the final drive of my Ko D20-7. So far I've tried a 1/2 "breaker" bar and hammer. I tried hitting it direct a little with a hammer but was unsure if the casting is cast iron, I may crack it with hammering if it is. Anybody know how much heat these will take without damage or fire, how much hammering and what is the case made out of. The plug is anodised steel that I can see by its color. All the other plugs on this machine have loosen right up. The last time this happened to me was on a "brush blade" and the dealer said to use my Acy. torch but I didn't because I was afraid it would get too hot and explode. Tks.
 

malin

Member
Joined
May 15, 2010
Messages
5
Location
usa
Thanks for starting this thread. I hope it will be helpful to many people that are searching for this topic. Keep posting guys and keep this forum a great place to learn things.
 

dav3

Member
Joined
May 19, 2010
Messages
8
Location
CA, 96003 D20P-7e #78705
Re: Welding "T" bar stock. Welding is a time consuming and expensive job not to mention you'd be bending over breathing in that wonderful welding fume, for hours on end. From the worn out looks of your grousers and the good condition of the sprocket I would replace them including new nuts and bolts. Per the good condition of the rest of the track chain. Re-bar is too soft and would just wear out or tear off in quick time, and really wouldn't provide any more traction, welding them on would just be wasted time and expense. I once was going to change my "P" grouser out to the standard shoes and found I would need 6 bolts kits and 74 shoes for both tracks for around $1650, from Komatsu at 2006 prices. I later found out that in my area with wet winters and muddy soft ground the "swamp" grouser works best, so never followed through. Just my thoughts.
 

JimInOz

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 15, 2008
Messages
512
Location
Victoria, Australia
5-19-10, Need some good ideas how to free up a frozen fill plug in the final drive of my Ko D20-7. So far I've tried a 1/2 "breaker" bar and hammer. I tried hitting it direct a little with a hammer but was unsure if the casting is cast iron, I may crack it with hammering if it is. Anybody know how much heat these will take without damage or fire, how much hammering and what is the case made out of. The plug is anodised steel that I can see by its color. All the other plugs on this machine have loosen right up. The last time this happened to me was on a "brush blade" and the dealer said to use my Acy. torch but I didn't because I was afraid it would get too hot and explode. Tks.

Dav,
I recently took out the drain plugs on my Mitsy BS3F ..Finals & trans plugs.
One of the trans plugs was TIGHT!I couldn't believe how tight it was.
I just put a 4ft long pipe over the 3/4 drive handle,& all was well.
All my plugs were 3/4 drive.Those plugs are made of good stuff.

I wonder if you can weld a nut on the top of your plug,& put a big wrench on it...?

Good luck..Jim
 

darinray

Charter Member
Joined
Nov 15, 2003
Messages
435
Location
Delevan, NY
Occupation
Owner-Equipment & Parts Sales
I've had them so tight that they end up stripping the plug with a big ole cheater bar so then i had to use the old hammer and chisel method. I've heard some customers that have used heat but I just never tried it. I guess I'm chicken. :) I think with the hammer and chisel you end up loosening the rusted plug with the blows and then she moves free. Keep us posted on the trick you use.

Darin

5-19-10, Need some good ideas how to free up a frozen fill plug in the final drive of my Ko D20-7. So far I've tried a 1/2 "breaker" bar and hammer. I tried hitting it direct a little with a hammer but was unsure if the casting is cast iron, I may crack it with hammering if it is. Anybody know how much heat these will take without damage or fire, how much hammering and what is the case made out of. The plug is anodised steel that I can see by its color. All the other plugs on this machine have loosen right up. The last time this happened to me was on a "brush blade" and the dealer said to use my Acy. torch but I didn't because I was afraid it would get too hot and explode. Tks.
 

dav3

Member
Joined
May 19, 2010
Messages
8
Location
CA, 96003 D20P-7e #78705
"Frozen" fill plug in Final Drive

5-19-10, Need some good ideas how to free up a frozen fill plug in the final drive of my Ko D20-7. So far I've tried a 1/2 "breaker" bar and hammer. I tried hitting it direct a little with a hammer but was unsure if the casting is cast iron, I may crack it with hammering if it is. Anybody know how much heat these will take without damage or fire, how much hammering and what is the case made out of. The plug is anodised steel that I can see by its color. All the other plugs on this machine have loosen right up. The last time this happened to me was on a "brush blade" and the dealer said to use my Acy. torch but I didn't because I was afraid it would get too hot and explode. Tks.

Success Re. "Frozen" fill plug in Final drive. I got them free here's how. I used a hammer and give ea plug some baby taps, I didn't want to break the casting. Then I put a 1/2" breaker bar in and hammered the bar near the plug end five-six good ones, I didn't want to bend or break my breaker bar so I didn't over do the hammering, nor did I use a "cheater" for the same reason. Then I applied propane heat to the casting for about five min, but not enough to burn the paint. I waited 5-10min until the heat soaked in. More breaker bar hammering than I used my biggest 3/4" air impact wrench with a 1/2" adapter for a one compressor cycle. I did this complete process three times and soon the 3/4" spun it free, sudden like. The plugs have a fine thread and a large rubber "O" ring much like an oil filter. I suspect the "O" ring caused most of the problem because the thread was like brand new. Just like an oil filter seal it must be oiled before installing and if you don't remove an oil filter for a long while the rubber "welds" itself to the metal even if you do oil it. I think the heat softened it some. The oil itself was like brand new, I think the dealer told be he had check all oil's and it was good to go. Could be that when they ship these from Japan they must drain all oil and fuel. But whom ever installed the plug last maybe didn't grease the rubber, as I've only owned it for four years, and never checked it. I would say now that all these plugs should be loosened and checked at least every oil change, might prevent "Frozen" plug.
 

Wylie5

Active Member
Joined
Dec 12, 2009
Messages
34
Location
Euroa, Victoria, Australia.
Occupation
Weed Control Contractor
Re:Deselarator

Hi Jim,
Have tryed to ring you a few time to know luck (just the anwer machine), will try and ring you tomorrow on my way down from orange.

Cheers Wheelybin.





Dav,
I recently took out the drain plugs on my Mitsy BS3F ..Finals & trans plugs.
One of the trans plugs was TIGHT!I couldn't believe how tight it was.
I just put a 4ft long pipe over the 3/4 drive handle,& all was well.
All my plugs were 3/4 drive.Those plugs are made of good stuff.

I wonder if you can weld a nut on the top of your plug,& put a big wrench on it...?

Good luck..Jim
 

hotroddz

New Member
Joined
May 25, 2010
Messages
2
Location
orting wa,
I need some help, I threw my right track and now I can't get it back on. I tried to compress the yoke rod, but it won't go in. I have put the left track on previously so I know how it should go.

Thanks in advance!
 

darinray

Charter Member
Joined
Nov 15, 2003
Messages
435
Location
Delevan, NY
Occupation
Owner-Equipment & Parts Sales
Make sure that there is no mud or in my case one time concrete holding the fork stuck in place. As soon as we got the material off the track frame it was then able to push in.

Darin

I need some help, I threw my right track and now I can't get it back on. I tried to compress the yoke rod, but it won't go in. I have put the left track on previously so I know how it should go.

Thanks in advance!
 

linoly

New Member
Joined
May 26, 2010
Messages
1
Location
Tualatin, OR
Hello, I'm new to this forum. I'm trying to locate an owner's manual for my dad for a Hitachi DX 40 Dozer that he recently purchased. (He's 80 and doesn't use the internet.) If you have a manual or CD that you're willing to share, he would be interested in purchasing a copy. Any leads are greatly appreciated. Thanks!
 

Danny B

Active Member
Joined
Jun 28, 2008
Messages
42
Location
Checotah, OK
I seen to have a more pressing problem than the grousers on my D21.
I am having a fuel problem. I don't know if it is rain getting in my tank some how, or some kind of contaminate in the tank breaking down my diesel. Twice I have had the engine to quit. Once a couple of weeks ago. The fuel smelled like old fuel. It did have some water in it when I drained the tank. Replaced the filter. Put in fresh fuel and all was well. Used the D21 for a few hours. Let it set a couple of weeks down in the pasture where I was using it. Went back yesterday to do some more after a couple of rainstorms. Ran good for an hour or two then started missing then died. Today I drained the tank again. Again the fuel smelled like old fuel or varnish. It was slightly cloudy. But didn't get clear water our of drain first.
So I have three questions. One - Is there some way I my be getting water in the tank? Two - Is it possible there is some contaminate or bacteria that is ruining my fuel? Three - What is the best way to completely flush out the tank?
Thanks much for any help. :beatsme
 

murdok

New Member
Joined
Mar 7, 2009
Messages
1
Location
Alberta
Komatsu D21A-5 glow plugs

Hello, I'm new to this site and have done some searches but can't seem to find any info about the glow plugs in my lil dozer. I am wondering if anyone has a part number for these other than going to the dealer? The dealer quoted my $ 178.00 per plug. I guess I should call them the stealer? lol Any info would be appreciated? Thanks......G
 

prowler

New Member
Joined
May 29, 2010
Messages
4
Location
Port Orchard, WA
New and not sure if I'm making this entry correctly. I have purchased a D21A-5 and I am trying to free up on of the track adjusters. I have read that they get rusty and will stick. I have tried injecting grease, but did not go. I have removed the fill valve/zirk and grease will pass through the zirk, but the yoke will not move. I have tried pulling on the idler to pull the yoke out, but no good there. I am afraid to open the zirk and try to retract the adjuster for fear I wont get it to expand to were I started. I have even spayed wd40 and a penetrating oil along the yoke shaft. Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks and have a safe Memorial Day weekend.
 

JimInOz

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 15, 2008
Messages
512
Location
Victoria, Australia
Hello, I'm new to this forum. I'm trying to locate an owner's manual for my dad for a Hitachi DX 40 Dozer that he recently purchased. (He's 80 and doesn't use the internet.) If you have a manual or CD that you're willing to share, he would be interested in purchasing a copy. Any leads are greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Hi,
I might be able to help you...& put you in touch with other owners.
email me on : dozerparts@yahoo.com.au

Jim
 

MrKomatsu

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 12, 2009
Messages
437
Location
Houston Tx.
it has to come out before it will go in.....i a have made a hose to use my porta power it's messy ut it works....then clean up rod and reseal...
 

hotroddz

New Member
Joined
May 25, 2010
Messages
2
Location
orting wa,
I just bought a d21 p5 and it runs really good but I think I need new undercarriage. I live in Orting Wa. is there anywhere I can get stuff used around here? or at a good price.
 

prowler

New Member
Joined
May 29, 2010
Messages
4
Location
Port Orchard, WA
Hotroddz, there are several places outside the area with decent prices on undercarriage parts, but I don't know of anything in our area. If you find a local supplier let me know as I too would be interested in undercarriage parts in the not to distant future. How much did you give for your d21a-5 and did you get it locally.
 

prowler

New Member
Joined
May 29, 2010
Messages
4
Location
Port Orchard, WA
Does anybody know what the torque spec for the nylock nut that is on the end of the piston rod for the blade lift cylinder might be. I need a shop service manual if anybody sales them. Thanks
 

GuglioLS

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 5, 2009
Messages
59
Location
Edgewood, NM USA
Occupation
Electronics Field Service
D20A-6 Seat Replacement

I scored a great deal off eBay. I got the 450 dollar seat that I've been wanting for 249. :drinkup

First choice seat from northern tool

My eBay deal

It arrived quickly so I wasted no time getting the old one out and the new one in. The old seat was a featherweight. The new seat weights like 80 pounds :eek:


















It just barely fit. I think it's got about 1/4" clearance on each side. Had to make a small bracket, drill and tap to relocate the retractable cartridge for the seat belt so it would fit the Dozer. But it all fits and is super comfortable. The back rest is a few inches taller than the original with an adjustable angle. The gas shock (see pics) absorbs all the jolts the Dozer over rocks can deliver. It has 4+ inches of suspension travel and is adjustable for the the riders weight. I'm really pleased with it and glad I held out for a quality suspension seat at a reasonable price.

Enjoy.....

LarryView attachment 64848
 

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