BD2G steering problem

[Rotgirl]

Keenlo, do you happen to have a diagram or photo of the tool you made to get the clutch pack out?

I had a brake band rusted to the right clutch pack and have to remove it but can't get the clutch pack to budge. Don't see how to get the flanges to move away to be able to lift the clutch pack out.

Thanks for any help you can give!

Ciao ya'll.....rg

 

[Crash68]

The Mitsubishi BD2 are good little machines,which often came from Japanese rental fleets.Often,they sat in cold weather,doing little work...& sometimes the steering clutches bonded up.They often came equipped with apex plate swamp tracks.
You'll likely need to renew the steering discs,which can be got from steeringclutch.com.
Working on the steering is a bit hard,but better than on other machines.
Steering is dry type.
I can sell you copied books,& have some parts contacts.

PM me.
Jim

Jim

I just bought a BD2G and need a maintenance manual for it ,can you help me out. I think I got a great deal it only has 1560 hrs but I want to know how I can find out what year it is, the last owner thinks it is 89 or 90?

Thanks for any help you can give me.

 

[JimInOz]

Hi C68,
Contact me on: dozerparts@yahoo.com.au
& I'll help you.

Regards
Jim

 

[kneelo]

i don't have the tool I made close at hand but here is a sketch of what it does.

What you are trying to do is to get the drum and clutch pack to slide away from their flanges as there are lips that hold them in place and stop you slipping the whole assembly out. Normally when you remove all the bolts on the flanges you can thread a couple of these bolts back in a few turns and give it a tap with a hammer and that will break things loose, the clutch pack will slide into the drum and you pull the whole thing out. In my case the clutch pack was full of rust so the spline was locked up pretty tight so I couldn't get it off the lips.

With this tool you put a bolt in fully in the inner flange and in a few turns so its still loose on the outer flanges then use the press screw to force the clutch assembly to compress. I only left the bolt on the outer flange loose because it puts the force through the thread and is likely to damage the threads a bit so I only wanted to do that on one of the parts. The bolt on the inner flange was one the originals that has a concave head so helped kept the press screw from slipping off. You should probably use a longer bolt on the outside flange so it has as much thread engaged and possible and that might save the thread there. With this tool you do a bit one side then spin it round and do the other and keep going and eventually it may free up. I also heated up the drum as much as I dared with a propane torch to give it all the help I could. If you are patient you should be able to get it apart...the other option is to cut the drum and buy a new one.

Let me know if you want the dimensions of the tool and I will try and get it in the next week. It is pretty simple to make you just need to make sure its small enough to fit because its a bit tight.

 

[Rotgirl]

Thanks for the help Kneelo.

It would be a BIG help if you could get me the dimensions!

Ciao ya'll....rg

 

[JimInOz]

Sprocket Tooth width

Just wondering if any BD2 /BS3 owners have OEM sprockets (not weld on rims)....I need to know the width of the sprocket teeth,please.
Usually they are maybe 40-50mm wide.
The weld on rims are often wider than OEM size.

Thanks
Jim

 

[bubbagoat]

Jim,

I'll check the BS3F this weekend when I get over to her. I'm working on the lower rollers anyway this weekend if it's not raining. I know ther are original Mitsubishi.

BubbaGoat

 

[JimInOz]

HI Bubba,
Hope your machines are going OK.
My rollers also need attention,so I started removing the track guards.I had 2 broken bolts in a matter of minutes....Jap bolts really are rubbish.
I'll await your reply.
Thanks..Jim

 

[bubbagoat]

Jim,

The rear sproket thickness on my BS3F measure 37.2 mm (on an original Mitsubishi sproket) according to my caliper. It varies a little on the part I was able to check, but don't think they are worn significantly. I was able to check a thicker section by the teeth that extends in from the track and should have little or no wear since the metal does not touch it.

I got off my rock rails (track guards) on the first side, and only had to hammer a 16 mm wrench on one of the bolts to grip it as it was so rusty the 17 mm slipped on it. They all came out after an impact or ten from a hammer on the end of the wrench. I got lucky on this side. All of the through bolts between the inner rock rail and the outer rail had been damaged by the loose rollers allowing the track to rub on them. Off to the bolt store Monday. I hope to have the 5 rollers bolted on this side by Sunday evening.

Let me know if you need anything else and I can measure it as well.

Bubbagoat

 

[JimInOz]

Hi Bubba,
Thanks for your help.
I have a pair of chains/plates here that might fit a BS3F....only thing is the sprocket can't be wider than 40mm.Looks like I'm in luck.
I just removed my track guards.The rollers were totally shot,so the guards had suffered.As the machine only does light farm work,I'll leave the guards off after rollers are replaced.
Good luck with your repairs....

Jim

 

[Wylie5]

Can a Dexcerlator be ffitted to the Misubishi

HI jim,
Have not spoken for a while, Have been so busy with spraying that it's not funny, Any way can a dexerlator be fitted to the Mitsubishi BD2H or not.

Cheers Wheelybin.

The Mitsubishi BD2 are good little machines,which often came from Japanese rental fleets.Often,they sat in cold weather,doing little work...& sometimes the steering clutches bonded up.They often came equipped with apex plate swamp tracks.
You'll likely need to renew the steering discs,which can be got from steeringclutch.com.
Working on the steering is a bit hard,but better than on other machines.
Steering is dry type.
I can sell you copied books,& have some parts contacts.

PM me.
Jim

 

[JimInOz]

Hi Wheely,
Can you give me a call one night.
I'll PM you.

For any Aussie BD2 owners,I'm about to import undercarriage .If you need anything,let me know via PM.

Jim

 

[jimsdb2g]

Changing the Steering brakes and Drums need to change fluids

BD2G Steering adjustments....

I just have just replaced Both the Steering drum and Brakes took about 4 Hr didnt have to remove the tracks to replace. it took a little time to get to the bottom bolts with a open end rinch. Now I have to adjust all the linkage and it should take 2 Hr or so. also, If anyone knows about draining all fluids for the BD2G

 

[jimsdb2g]

where can I find some used attachments

I have a DB2G would like to find a hoist and backhoe attachments

 

[JimInOz]

Jim,
I Sent you a PM.

 

[Calvin Johnson]

It won't move!!

Just bought a BD2F and worked fine for two days. Now it will not move forward or backward unless I push hard forward on boith levers.
I noticed that the left lever will not spring forward when released like the right side.
Any info is appreciated as this is my first dozer.
If it is clutch related How much has to be removed, ie?: tracks ect?
Also I am in need of manuals as I have not located these yet.
Thanks in advance for any advise.
CJ

 

[Crash68]

You can get manuals at Rhines, http://app.vendio.com/storefront?view=CAT_HOME&sid=308115&mode=1&catId=1373969 get the service and operations manual. I think I payed 110.00 for both but they have everything you need. As for the clutches look at the spring and valves under the seat. I just bought my BDG2 and have a lot to learn. GOOD LUCK

 

[kneelo]

Is there just no drive or does it stall the machine?

I have a direct drive BD2G which I assume is the same and that yours is a direct drive machine too... no drive will be a steering clutch issue and if its stalling its a band brake problem. Either way its sounds like you need to adjust the linkages. The manual extract to adjust these for the BD2G is floating around in one of these threads I think, otherwise I can send a copy in a few days.

Might also pay to check the oil level in the main drive clutch housing as I believe this is also the oil supply for the steering clutch release mechanism. I'm guessing if the oils low it could do funny things.

 

[Calvin Johnson]

Kneelo /Crash68, Thanks fo rprovided info so far.
I removed the seat last night. Not confident to go to far yet as no Manual to review.
I looked on the Rhine site but seems manuals are sold out. I will give a call first chance to check status of these.
I have noticed mention of two 15/16" nuts to tighten and back off 2 3/4 turns. Also the mention to check Springs and valves under seat. I have not located either of these as of yet. Any hints to location is appreciated. Meanwhile I guess I will have to wait until manuals are located and ordered. I was hoping I would find some small issue but probably wishful thinking.
Can anyone advise if the tracks need to be removed for further troube shoot? Does the dozer need to be off the ground to allow the running gear to be free of pressure?
Sorry to be asking so much, just hoping to get ahead of the game and be ready for teardown if required.
Thanks again,
CJ

 

[darinray]

Hey Calvin,

Sorry to hear of your trouble but am sure if you bought it right even with the parts required you won't break the bank. Anyway your problem could be a few things but what baffles me is that it will move if you push the levers toward the engine...??? Check to make sure the linkages are adjusted so that the clutches aren't always partially disengaged and when you push the levers it allows them to engage again. Bascially pull your levers and see what rod linkage is moving and where things move and you will be able to figure it out by adjusting the linkage. mark everything or take a picture of it before attempting JUST in case it makes things worse so you can put it back the saem way.