I have a strange problem with my bd2g . the right steer and brake work fine . the left will not release the clutch - if pulled back fairly hard , it will actually want to stall the motor with brakeing on the left side . anyone have an idea where to go with this ? The rear left hose has constant psi after the hydrolic valve with the steer lever pulled back or not pulled back . the right side has no psi until the steer lever is pulled , then has high psi .
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BD2G steering problem
- Thread starter aocustom
- Start date
wont turn left
I have a strange problem with my bd2g . the right steer and brake work fine . the left will not release the clutch - if pulled back fairly hard , it will actually want to stall the motor with brakeing on the left side . anyone have an idea where to go with this ? The rear left hose has constant psi after the hydrolic valve with the steer lever pulled back or not pulled back . the right side has no psi until the steer lever is pulled , then has high psi .
I have a strange problem with my bd2g . the right steer and brake work fine . the left will not release the clutch - if pulled back fairly hard , it will actually want to stall the motor with brakeing on the left side . anyone have an idea where to go with this ? The rear left hose has constant psi after the hydrolic valve with the steer lever pulled back or not pulled back . the right side has no psi until the steer lever is pulled , then has high psi .
kneelo
Active Member
I had the exact same problem with the left steering clutch which turned out to be a siezed up clutch pack due to corrosion. I never checked the hydraulic pressures but if you have bought it with this problem perhaps someone has previously has had a go at adjusting the linkages to fix the problem and now the clutch pressure always stays high on that side. I knew I had a problem for a long tame before I decided to fix it properly.
As well as the frozen clutch the linkages for my brakes were also quite stiff so the brake band wasn't releasing properly. I found someone had put an extra spring on the linkages to try and fix it. I have stripped both clutches and replaced clutch plates on the left and spacer plates on both sides as there was a fair amount of corrosion on the other side too. I have freed up all the brake linkages and am just waiting for the band brakes to be relined before it goes back together. When it does I'm going to put some silica gel desiccant pouches in both sides and keep an eye on them as this has been a fairly expensive and time consuming exercise.
Aftermarket steering parts are available from www.steeringclutch.com and John is very helpful. If you have any trouble getting the frozen clutch pack to come out let me know, I had to make tool up in the end to compress mine and get it out.
As well as the frozen clutch the linkages for my brakes were also quite stiff so the brake band wasn't releasing properly. I found someone had put an extra spring on the linkages to try and fix it. I have stripped both clutches and replaced clutch plates on the left and spacer plates on both sides as there was a fair amount of corrosion on the other side too. I have freed up all the brake linkages and am just waiting for the band brakes to be relined before it goes back together. When it does I'm going to put some silica gel desiccant pouches in both sides and keep an eye on them as this has been a fairly expensive and time consuming exercise.
Aftermarket steering parts are available from www.steeringclutch.com and John is very helpful. If you have any trouble getting the frozen clutch pack to come out let me know, I had to make tool up in the end to compress mine and get it out.
Wont turn left
Thank you for the reply . I ordered a service manual for this unit so i could inspect it further . I did not want to just start taking it apart and hoping that i would just run into something . How hard (time wise) was it to get to the clutch packs on each side ? I am guessing that they must be a dry clutch due to the corrosion and yourself putting in moisture absorbing bags ? Again , thank you . I anyone has any tips while working on this , please let me know . Thanks a million .....Roger
Thank you for the reply . I ordered a service manual for this unit so i could inspect it further . I did not want to just start taking it apart and hoping that i would just run into something . How hard (time wise) was it to get to the clutch packs on each side ? I am guessing that they must be a dry clutch due to the corrosion and yourself putting in moisture absorbing bags ? Again , thank you . I anyone has any tips while working on this , please let me know . Thanks a million .....Roger
kneelo
Active Member
I'm not sure of your background but I found these fairly straight forward to get out, but it is always a bit slower when youre flying blind. I did try to get a service manual but after sending a couple of emails to rhine equip they never bothered to respond... It would be good to have I think but they are very expensive in aus.
Getting the clutches out was easy for one side and very difficult for the other. Half a day or so to get it all opened up and take the first one out then a bit over a full day and a lot of swearing to get the second one out. If its pretty well siezed I would guess you will have the same difficulty as me. Mine would steer in first gear but in the higher gears would start to stall the machine. If its too far gone you may even have to cut the splined drum to get it apart i suspect. I almost got to this point before it finally came out.
Yeh its a dry clutch setup so the dust make the job all the more pleasant.
good luck and let us know how it goes.
Getting the clutches out was easy for one side and very difficult for the other. Half a day or so to get it all opened up and take the first one out then a bit over a full day and a lot of swearing to get the second one out. If its pretty well siezed I would guess you will have the same difficulty as me. Mine would steer in first gear but in the higher gears would start to stall the machine. If its too far gone you may even have to cut the splined drum to get it apart i suspect. I almost got to this point before it finally came out.
Yeh its a dry clutch setup so the dust make the job all the more pleasant.
good luck and let us know how it goes.
jeremyhart72
Member
Why does komatsu have such a huge forum and mitsu has such a small one? As far as i can tell mitsu is the superior dozer. Just not the parts support here in the states. I would love to see a ot more mitsu posts
jeremyhart72
Member
I have a bd2h dozer that i will be replacing the steering clutches and replacing the brake band friction discs as soon as i get my service manual in, just wanted to see if anyone had any pointers? I was going to do it without the manuals, but quite frankly i was stumped as best as i can figure the clutch pack is inside the drum that the brake band grips? Also can anyone tell me what the last letters in the dozer number means? Such as g , h , j?
JimInOz
Senior Member
Hi JeremyH72,
The Mitsubishi letters started at the BD2A & progressed thru to the J series,which were the last made with the Mitsubishi badge.
The BD2 were bulldozers & the BS3 were Bulldozer-Shovels.
There was also a BS6 made,which is a little larger than the ones you generally see .
Mitsubishi crawlers were sold in Australia up until the F series in the 80s.
There is also a few Ag crawlers here ....like the 5 tonne FA 80.
Your H series is the second-last made & is more modern than some of the early machines.Some were equipped with a more versatile 8 way blade.
Jim
The Mitsubishi letters started at the BD2A & progressed thru to the J series,which were the last made with the Mitsubishi badge.
The BD2 were bulldozers & the BS3 were Bulldozer-Shovels.
There was also a BS6 made,which is a little larger than the ones you generally see .
Mitsubishi crawlers were sold in Australia up until the F series in the 80s.
There is also a few Ag crawlers here ....like the 5 tonne FA 80.
Your H series is the second-last made & is more modern than some of the early machines.Some were equipped with a more versatile 8 way blade.
Jim
jeremyhart72
Member
Thanks for the info jim. Now just waiting for my manuals to get to work on the dozer. If anyone needs any info out of them let me know. I ordered the operators , service and both parts manuals( engine and drivetrain). I will try to help any way i can.
amunderdog
Senior Member
All i can tell you about the BD mitsubishi is to check your side boxes.
Large square panel just below where you step into cab.
All your hydraulics go into the right one some into the left.
They do not drain well and will fill with wet dirt (mud) eventually rotting out the hard lines within.
Just takes a few minutes to pull the cover and hose it all out occasionally.
Large square panel just below where you step into cab.
All your hydraulics go into the right one some into the left.
They do not drain well and will fill with wet dirt (mud) eventually rotting out the hard lines within.
Just takes a few minutes to pull the cover and hose it all out occasionally.
barnett3006
New Member
hey guys, new here.
I am currently in the process of removing the clutch packs on a BD2f. I have all the bolts out from both flanges but I can't get the brake assembly out. The manual I have for it says something like "push clutch operating rod towards final drive, under this condition the assembly can be lifted out" (I don't have the manual infront of me atm). So....how is this done , exactly? lol. What do I pry/push/pull on/against? I have an 8 foot locomotive pry bar, if thats what it takes.
Thanks in advance!
Marc :usa
I am currently in the process of removing the clutch packs on a BD2f. I have all the bolts out from both flanges but I can't get the brake assembly out. The manual I have for it says something like "push clutch operating rod towards final drive, under this condition the assembly can be lifted out" (I don't have the manual infront of me atm). So....how is this done , exactly? lol. What do I pry/push/pull on/against? I have an 8 foot locomotive pry bar, if thats what it takes.
Thanks in advance!
Marc :usa
darinray
Charter Member
You basically have to pry (sometimes with chisels) the inside drum to go inside the outer drum. I've had them before that you had to try prying them from one side then turn 180 degrees and pry the other out and then back and forth until going in enough to clear the flanges. Then again if it's not moving I've also had to cut the out drum with torches just to get unit out. 
Then you have to replace that as well. I have those available too so contact me anytime.
Darin
Then you have to replace that as well. I have those available too so contact me anytime.Darin
barnett3006
New Member
You basically have to pry (sometimes with chisels) the inside drum to go inside the outer drum. I've had them before that you had to try prying them from one side then turn 180 degrees and pry the other out and then back and forth until going in enough to clear the flanges. Then again if it's not moving I've also had to cut the out drum with torches just to get unit out.
Darin
Thanks Darin. I was able to get the inner flanges about 1/2" apart...how far apart must they be before they clear?
Marc :usa
darinray
Charter Member
If you had it move 1/2" then all you need to do is get the outer drum off the other flange lip where is was bolted too. Make sure all the bolts are off....been there forgot that one....
Darin
Darin
need some information on BS3F
Hi, I have a BD2G and had to adjust the clutch packs, and it worked much better when we got done. fortunately we did not have to take it apart. I suspect it got wet, but it is now in Colorado where rust is not much of a problem.
I'm new here, and can't start a thread, so pardon my hijacking this one.
Now I have another problem, I have bought a BS3F to clear some brush for my daughter, but I don't know how much it weighs, or the width or length of it to get it shipped. Anyone out there with a manual for it that could look it up? The guy I am buying it from says he has a manual, but can't find it.
Thanks
Hi, I have a BD2G and had to adjust the clutch packs, and it worked much better when we got done. fortunately we did not have to take it apart. I suspect it got wet, but it is now in Colorado where rust is not much of a problem.
I'm new here, and can't start a thread, so pardon my hijacking this one.
Now I have another problem, I have bought a BS3F to clear some brush for my daughter, but I don't know how much it weighs, or the width or length of it to get it shipped. Anyone out there with a manual for it that could look it up? The guy I am buying it from says he has a manual, but can't find it.
Thanks
barnett3006
New Member
Darin,
thanks again for your help, sorry it took me so long to get back to you. So I got both clutch packs out and have already taken them apart, cleaned them up and got 'em back together. Now I'm waiting to get 2 band brake reline kits in the mail from tractorparts.com and a few small parts from Rhine to go any farther with these steering packs.
I have 2 small problems now, though. First I need 2 new greaser hoses for the steering clutch yoke bearings, I broke one getting it out and decided to cut the other one to get it out sense the first one was broken already...now I can't find new hoses (part #05750-25047 from http://http://www.tractorparts.com/PDFs/BD2G%20STEERING%20CLUTCH%20PARTS.pdf), Rhine doesn't have these. Do you know where I can get these, or what do you suggest?
Second, I need a new transmission brake or to have the one i got relined. Rhine wants $175 for a remanufactured tranny brake with a $200 core charge, am I stuck going this route or can you point me in a much cheaper direction (ie: a DIY reline kit?). I kinda feel that $375 is rediculous for what is basically the brake off of some kids go-cart, lol.
Thanks again in advance,
Marc :usa
thanks again for your help, sorry it took me so long to get back to you. So I got both clutch packs out and have already taken them apart, cleaned them up and got 'em back together. Now I'm waiting to get 2 band brake reline kits in the mail from tractorparts.com and a few small parts from Rhine to go any farther with these steering packs.
I have 2 small problems now, though. First I need 2 new greaser hoses for the steering clutch yoke bearings, I broke one getting it out and decided to cut the other one to get it out sense the first one was broken already...now I can't find new hoses (part #05750-25047 from http://http://www.tractorparts.com/PDFs/BD2G%20STEERING%20CLUTCH%20PARTS.pdf), Rhine doesn't have these. Do you know where I can get these, or what do you suggest?
Second, I need a new transmission brake or to have the one i got relined. Rhine wants $175 for a remanufactured tranny brake with a $200 core charge, am I stuck going this route or can you point me in a much cheaper direction (ie: a DIY reline kit?). I kinda feel that $375 is rediculous for what is basically the brake off of some kids go-cart, lol.
Thanks again in advance,
Marc :usa
darinray
Charter Member
If Rhine doesn't have them I don't know unless you can fab them with some ends. The brake band you can have relined I guess. Core charge will be returned once they get the band from you back so relly i'ts $175.
Darin
Core charge will be returned once they get the band from you back so relly i'ts $175. Darin
Wylie5
Active Member
- Joined
- Dec 12, 2009
- Messages
- 34
- Location
- Euroa, Victoria, Australia.
- Occupation
- Weed Control Contractor
BD2G or BD2J Model
Hi, My name is Andrew, I live in Euroa Vic, Australia, I have Just sign up to the Heavy Equipment forum, And looking for information on the Mitsubishi BD2G or J Dozer the information that I am after is
-Some photos of ROP idear's
-Some Photos of Stick Rake's idears
-Some photos of Rear Ripper systems that people have done
-Links to parts supplyers for the above machine
-Buying a machine in the states (as the price over in in OZ is $30,000.00)
As I am pretty handy with the mig and get great satification from doing it my self.
When I have completed my machine I will post some photos of it on the forum, a lick to my page so that any body can view them and mybe get some idears for them selfs.
Cheers For Now Wheelybin
Hi, My name is Andrew, I live in Euroa Vic, Australia, I have Just sign up to the Heavy Equipment forum, And looking for information on the Mitsubishi BD2G or J Dozer the information that I am after is
-Some photos of ROP idear's
-Some Photos of Stick Rake's idears
-Some photos of Rear Ripper systems that people have done
-Links to parts supplyers for the above machine
-Buying a machine in the states (as the price over in in OZ is $30,000.00)
As I am pretty handy with the mig and get great satification from doing it my self.
When I have completed my machine I will post some photos of it on the forum, a lick to my page so that any body can view them and mybe get some idears for them selfs.
Cheers For Now Wheelybin
Got the same problem with a seized left clutch... spent all day trying to get it out but the outer drum is locked solid to the cluch discs so no joy. One more try with a tool I made to try and press them together and if that doesn't work I might have to admit defeat and cut the drum
Right clutch and brake came out easily and seems fine. Can anyone tell me what thickness the clutch plates and steel plates should be or what to look for to check if they should be replaced. Also whats the lining thickness on the brake band supposed to be?
Last edited by a moderator:
JimInOz
Senior Member
Wylie5
Active Member
- Joined
- Dec 12, 2009
- Messages
- 34
- Location
- Euroa, Victoria, Australia.
- Occupation
- Weed Control Contractor
Re DB2G/J
Hi Jim, Thank you for sending the photos unfortuanaly I could not open the smaller photos, Do you still have your BD2G still working fore you today, Any photos that you might have with the things that you did with her. (It's Allway her). Talk to you some time Have a Good christmas and new year.
By the way Happy Dozin
Cheers Wheelybin
Hi Jim, Thank you for sending the photos unfortuanaly I could not open the smaller photos, Do you still have your BD2G still working fore you today, Any photos that you might have with the things that you did with her. (It's Allway her). Talk to you some time Have a Good christmas and new year.
By the way Happy Dozin
Cheers Wheelybin