.Water and oil mixing

[Reylocs]

Thank you. Its coming apart today. My concerns are, with the cam and lifters. How far should I go with a rebuild? I know I need to fix whats bad. Should I just put in pistons sleeves and bearings and put it back together?

Thanks

 

[MrKomatsu]

Just throwing this out there due to experiance......the front engine cover where the water pump is mounted...
John Deere uses there white silacone sealant to keep the cooling system fluild from entering the crankcase thru the front cover..
I have had the same issues in the past and fianlly some one told me about the front cover and i removed it and in fact
did find the bead was broken.. cleaned and resealed no more water in oil....just sayin...good luck

 

[Wick]

How many hours has it done? on the ones I have repaired that have done less than 6000 hrs the cams have been fine, when you pull it down check the cam lobes from below the sump if you don't know what you are looking for I would suggest you find a local mechanic as you will need to check bearing clearances, liner protrusions etc when you re-assemble the engine.
To save on frustration get someone who knows what they are doing and have it done once and right.
Cheers

 

[Reylocs]

The hour meTer shows 2950. Took The whole engine apart today. Removed the lineRs and the top o ring was wasted on every cylinder. The back cylinder I believe was The 1 ThaT was leaking, all 3 o rings were badly deteriorated. The rod bearings were really worn. The journals on The crank look absoluTely perfecT. The only problem I noTiced was ThaT 1 of The journals had a slighT blueing on either side of the journal. The camshafT and followers look fine. Ordered a clevite sleeve kit today, it will be here Monday. Of cOurse they're calling fOr 4 days Of rain since I'm dOing this Outside. I know I will need some advice on the fuel injection system when I get that far after I put it back together. Thanks for everyone's help

 

[Wick]

Would pay to check the rod out of the cylinder with the blued journal as it may be bent or cranked especially if it was the cylinder that the water was getting in, it may have hydraulicaly locked at some stage.

cheers

 

[Reylocs]

Ive been reading up on the amount of protrusion of the liners. I have a good magnetic dial indicator I use to setup my milling machine. For the rods and mains I will use plasti-gage.

 

[old55pete]

A good, clean engine block, A set fo feeler guages and a Machinest streight edge it all that you need. You can check the liner protrution on all four liners this way in the amount of time it takes to set up the dial indicator. Check them at 12 o clock and 6 o clock then 3 and 9 . Good luck.

 

[Reylocs]

Ok I will do that. I thought the dial indicator would take some time and be a pain. Can someone tell me how to lubricate and install the liners.

 

[JeremiahSr]

I figured it was the o-rings. Usually is on these engines. The blueing on the crankshaft is probally normal. From when they originally ground the crank. If the bearing joournals look good you should have nothing to worry about. Oil pressure was never your problem. After you install o-rings on liners make sure they are not twisting or rolled around. This little bit of twist makes some hard spots and some thin spots around it's sealing area. Lube with a little oil or grease and push them in place. After pushing with hand as far as you can take a clean 2x4 and a hammer and finish setting them into block. The proper way is to press liners but these go in relatively easily. After you get your pistons in and installing oil pump.....if your engine has balance shafts triple check their timing before moving further.

 

[old55pete]

Use good old fashon Dawn dish soap on the liner seals( o rings) and the counter bores. Dont be afraid to just dump the soap on and push them in. Some times you need a rubber mallet to get them in. after you have the liner in, take an old piston and push it through the liner and make shure that it will go all of the way through. If it wont go all of the way you need to remove the liner and find the o ring that rolled and replace it then re install it

 

[Reylocs]

I was only putting in new bearings,liners and pistons. There is a tractor rebuilding place (Keystone Tractor) near by, he recommended that I install new injectors($67 a piece) if one wasnt working it could ruin the rebuild. Im wondering if I should take the front cover off and check all the gears.I wasnt going to install a new oil pump. Had the head checked over and a few of the intake valves were leaking. Head was pressure tested and its fine. Cleaned block grooves where o rings go really well and checked liner protrusions. Putting it together today. Going to check my oil cooler again to make absolutly shore its not leaking. By the way, when I was collecting all the parts yesterday, I needed a ring expander for the piston rings, I tried harbor freight but theirs was too small. I thought I would ask the tractor shop if I could borrow one. Here was a guy that never saw me in his life, and lent me his own personal set. Lately my thoughts about people in general has been pretty crappy, not with the folks on this site, but with people I considered friends, shootings of little kids,and adults. Here was a genuinely honest trusting person who was willing to help in my time of need, and asked nothing in return. If I ever need a tractor shop Keystone Tractor in White Horse PA is where I would go and recommend to anyone. I will post back on how things go. Thanks again.

 

[old55pete]

Yes, new injectors is a good Idea. That will keep an old one, if bad, from washing out the new rings by over spraying fuel.

 

[Reylocs]

Not sure if this is a problem or Not. When I installed the o rings, the red 1 on the top the black 1 on the bottom. There was an O ring ThaT goes on The sleeve iTself. ThaT or ring was round and flaT, basically an oval. Shouldn't that o ring bottom out on the block before the liner iS preSSed all the way in? So that the head puSheS down on the Sleeve and sealS againSt the block. My liners went all the way down till they hit the ridge on the block. I would have thought the o ring would have hit and then I would have had to push the sleeve down a little bit. ThaT didn'T seem To happen. Does anyone have any thoughts?

 

[Reylocs]

Ok, talked to the guy at the engine shop, he said I should be fine with the liners. Got all the mains,rods,sleeves and pistons in. Torqued head. Will finish tomorrow. Will post how it goes.

Thanks

 

[Reylocs]

Started putting all back together. When I got it all together, as I was putting coolant In it, I noticed it had a mark on the radiator where I must have scratched it with the fan when I was taking it apart. As I was putting coolant in, I watched as it started to leak.(crap). Took the radiator off and took it to a radiator for repair, he patched it up but said it was pretty rotten. Put it all back together. Then as I was bleeding the fuel system, as I loosened the bleed screw on the filter, I realized the previous (bleeder) broke the bleed screw. Off to Atlantic Tractor to get a new filter and bleed screw. Finished all fluids and started the engine to break it in. Everything seems fine. Now need to make sure hydraulics are good then hopefully I will have a good running machine. Thanks for everyones help.

Be careful with old radiators they are fragile

 

[JeremiahSr]

Haha, yea it doesn't take much on old radiators. Looks like a good experience all together for you. Your next rebuild will be even faster. The last one i did was in a 550H and i had a rebuilt head here at shop and the in-frame rebuild kit before customer delivered dozer. I swapped all parts in 6 hrs and run engine in for 2 hours and assembled panels by end of day. It was a 1 day rebuild start to finish. Only had to drain water and fill anti-freeze next morning. Wasn't even moving real fast. Just knew every tool and every step.
Glad to hear it worked good for ya.