The JLG 40F Boom Lift Dilemma

[CCC3]

Greetings all
I’m yet another pilgrim new to this site but not to life. I’m a very lucky neighbor to a gentleman that used to own a logging company and still has lots of acres in eastern Oregon and has lots of neat equipment I can burrow like his JLG 40f.

I’m very appreciative of being able to borrow stuff as I got a small 40 acre farm which is too small to own other than a couple of tractors, but as I get older having the right tool for the job does make life so much easier, that and I like to return things I burrow in better shape than I find it. That said this gent knows his craft, he can take parts piled in the middle of the floor and make them do something meaningful, not so with me. I remember for example, that he pulled the engine of his service truck with its own crane by slaving the hydraulics, he’s grown up with that kind of stuff.

What I’d really like to do is burrow this equipment again. Everything works on it but it would be extremely helpful if I had manuals so I could pull services and such before I drive her back down to my neighbor lubed up with new oil and hydraulic fluids in her.

 

[OFF]

Welcome CCC3, I would gladly send you the JLG 40F manual set on PDF, I just need an email address to send the files to. It's not really recommended you post your email address here in the topic, so if you make 2 more posts (for a total of 3) it unlocks a feature on the site that will allow you to send me a "private message" containing your email.

 

[CCC3]

I shall sir
Thanking you in advance
I'll be talking to you soon

Cheers

 

[CCC3]

On that note
This beast is powered by a Wisconsin, is there a NAPA, oil hydraulic filter number I can use to at least begin that process or at least an Engine model for filters, plugs, distributor cap etc etc ..It might already be somewhere in this thread since this is a whole bunch of good info to ferret out.

Thanks once more

Cheers

 

[willie59]

Should be a Wisconsin VH4D engine, been so long since I've worked on one I don't recall the oil filter number, bet OFF knows though.

 

[OFF]

On that note
This beast is powered by a Wisconsin, is there a NAPA, oil hydraulic filter number I can use to at least begin that process or at least an Engine model for filters, plugs, distributor cap etc etc ..It might already be somewhere in this thread since this is a whole bunch of good info to ferret out.

Thanks once more

Cheers

The engine is a Wisconsin VH4D.

The older ones (the majority) used a NAPA #1106 engine oil filter (external threads like mason jar), later models used a NAPA #1051 (normal spin-on)

Hydraulic filter is a JLG #2120055, NAPA #1436

 

[CCC3]

Should be a Wisconsin VH4D engine, been so long since I've worked on one I don't recall the oil filter number, bet OFF knows though.

That makes sense. It looks just like the engine I had on my baler. Thanks for that

 

[CCC3]

The engine is a Wisconsin VH4D.

The older ones (the majority) used a NAPA #1106 engine oil filter (external threads like mason jar), later models used a NAPA #1051 (normal spin-on)

Hydraulic filter is a JLG #2120055, NAPA #1436

Perfect
I also have the info you sent me. thanks once more for reaching out. My neighbor hopefully is going to be a happy camper when I return this.

 

[OFF]

Perfect
I also have the info you sent me. thanks once more for reaching out. My neighbor hopefully is going to be a happy camper when I return this.

You are very welcome CCC3. That's what this place is all about. people helping people. I'm sure your neighbor will be very happy.

 

[ssimps1972]

Hi guys my JLG 40is up and going but a little rough to operate. I have included a pic of the original joystick ....sorry about the snow was wondering if anybody has seen this style ....I replaced them with newer 4 position joysticks to get up and going but the contacts on them are just switches.... on and off ....so all functions move fast and stop fast creating jerks of movement . I know it needs to operate smoother so that's my next goal. Thanks to OFF I have the manuals and these original controls don't seem to match any of them in the manual. the racine controller part 1600001 in the manual looks like it uses potentiometers and square wave generators to smooth out functions but I haven't seen where any of this was on my machine. I know I can get a 2 axis joystick with dual potentiometers for around $50 can also get a square wave generator board for around $10 but not sure how it should be wired .....any thoughts on smoother operation would be great. my goal is smoother operation and the speed of the operations would be controlled by the joystick. thanks for your time

 

[OFF]

View attachment 153244
Hi guys my JLG 40is up and going but a little rough to operate. I have included a pic of the original joystick ....sorry about the snow was wondering if anybody has seen this style ....I replaced them with newer 4 position joysticks to get up and going but the contacts on them are just switches.... on and off ....so all functions move fast and stop fast creating jerks of movement . I know it needs to operate smoother so that's my next goal. Thanks to OFF I have the manuals and these original controls don't seem to match any of them in the manual. the racine controller part 1600001 in the manual looks like it uses potentiometers and square wave generators to smooth out functions but I haven't seen where any of this was on my machine. I know I can get a 2 axis joystick with dual potentiometers for around $50 can also get a square wave generator board for around $10 but not sure how it should be wired .....any thoughts on smoother operation would be great. my goal is smoother operation and the speed of the operations would be controlled by the joystick. thanks for your time

well, I've never seen anything like that controller before. Looks home made. Ingenious, but crude. You can't use the proportional controllers unless you have proportional valves to go with them. Can you take a picture of the valve bank you have that's located under the main panel? Some 40F's had valves that were either on or off. There was no "feathering". Original controller on these were made by Cutler/Hammer

 

[willie59]

well, I've never seen anything like that controller before. Looks home made. Ingenious, but crude. You can't use the proportional controllers unless you have proportional valves to go with them. Can you take a picture of the valve bank you have that's located under the main panel? Some 40F's had valves that were either on or off. There was no "feathering". Original controller on these were made by Cutler/Hammer

Agreed, that looks situationally engineered, but to know what control valves for boom, swing, and drive would be most helpful.

 

[OFF]

situationally engineered

what a great term!

The guy who built that was doing some serious thinking, my hat's off to him. 4 micro switches, one for each axis.......perfect.

 

[SuperSnipe]

Can I get a copy of the wiring diagrams of the 40F, sent to my email, wkac132@aol.com. I just purchased one and trying to fix it up a bit, not all the controls in the basket work. Thanks, Kent

 

[OFF]

Can I get a copy of the wiring diagrams of the 40F, sent to my email, xxxxx@aol.com. I just purchased one and trying to fix it up a bit, not all the controls in the basket work. Thanks, Kent

I sent them to you earlier today, diagrams and a set of 40F manuals. Should be everything you need to make a hit record. Enjoy.

 

[ssimps1972]

here is the valves are they the proportional valves ???

 

[SuperSnipe]

Thank you, looks like I got some work ahead of me.

 

[OFF]

View attachment 153407
here is the valves are they the proportional valves ???

Those are Racine solenoid valves, what we often refer to as "bang-bang" valves. They are strictly open or closed, there is no Mr Inbetween. You are finding them a little too harsh?

 

[ssimps1972]

just seems to be too quick... hard to bring it in close to something , what are my other options ....flow control vales? by the way according to JLG this machine is a 1974 JLG model 40. the original Wisconsin
engine was gone when I bought it . I installed a 22 hp horizontal shaft v twin. I mention this because I read that the original Wisconsin engine would idle @1500 rpm and topped out at 2800 rpm. the V twin engine I installed idles at 1800 and tops out at 4000 rpm. although the machine will function with the engine at idle speed I wonder if the extra rpm at idle creates more flow or gallon per min. that's why I ask about flow control vales. the functions of the machine are smooth but if you want to get a few inches away from the roof or rain gutter it moves quick enough you would probably hit before you could stop. no fine adjustment. maybe I just expect too much from an old machine.

 

[RSIGuy]

Hello Everyone, I thought I would mention again in case anyone decides to give up on their 40F I am still looking for a drive motor or two.

Off, any chance JLG used the same motor or bolt pattern on newer years? One of those may be easier to locate so I'm thinking.