OFF
Senior Member
and Welcome back od1! Long time, no see 
just look what you've created!
just look what you've created!
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The JLG 40F Boom Lift Dilemma
- Thread starter od1
- Start date
pyro-1955
Active Member
Thanks, I will see what is there tonight. Based on the yellow paint inside the engine compartment I am pretty sure it's from somewhere in the 70's, but it only has a little over 3300 hours on it, and the meter works. Runs great just one issue with the Auxiliary Power and the Down control via the Stick in the bucket, already ran out of fuel up about 30 feet, had to call my wife to rescue me....
OFF
Senior Member
od1
Well-Known Member
That's funny. The same thing happened to me but she couldn't turn any of the 3 valves. I had to wait until my son came home from school.
pyro-1955
Active Member
My wife gave us a hard time took a few pics the. Let us down. I looked for a serial number no sign on control post or turrett. Is it on the tube or on the flat? The under side is definitely gold yellow. Looks like the rental co that had it at one time wanted it to look newer. When I repaint it I want to go back to original all colors.
pyro-1955
Active Member
yes, the older ones had it just about anywhere. They standardized after a while. Can't remember if the newer ones still have it stamped into the turret as well or not.
Well, the post my basket and the controls mount to is round and there is no plate or any indications of stampings there, I looked all around the turret did not see any indication of any numbers stamped there, but could be filled with paint, where should I scrape try to expose the SN? front, side, rear of turret and how far down? I would like to figure out for sure when it was made and what model. Does anyone know if there is a spare set of wires that run up to the basket from the panel at the engine? I want to add a seperate toggle for down only tied to the same output that the toggle at the engine uses for down to be used only when using the Auxillary power. Planning on putting a seperate relay that is powered and can power the solenoid directly rather than have all the voltage drop over the roughly 80 feet of wire up to the basket and back. My thought is that by doing this, when i run out of fuel, that control will actually work and lower me, unlike using the aux power and the down stick, which only gave me about 5 foot of drop before it stopped working. Has anyone else encountered this and is this a good fix???
OFF
Senior Member
I haven't seen a 40F face to face since 1998. That post is where the tag used to be on a lot of machines. Look on the top of the frame rails inside the engine compartment too. And on the top of the boom just down from the angle indicator.
I believe there were spare wires in the main harness. If you get really stuck there is always the A/C recepticle wiring (most of them had it) that you can take over & use. That gives you 3 - 14ga conductors to play with.
RSIGuy
Well-Known Member
OFF, SOS!!! I'll go back to drive motor later but I just sprung a leak in the Swing Motor and there's no parts breakdown in my manual. When we took off the cover theres a disk with 2 brake calipers, a hydraulic solenoid to actuate them. We washed it down and tried it, the fluid appears to be coming from under but that area was loaded when we took the round cover off????? Is there an oil ring under that assembly or do you have a parts breakdown on that. More good news an hour later one of the Cutler Hammer Joysticks is free wheeling all the sudden. I hope I can fix it tonight, I've had them apart a few times already.
OFF
Senior Member
no breakdown on swing motors, sorry. You'll have to remove the brake and get a look at the seal. Maybe you can get a number off it and buy one at a bearing store. Or pull the swing motor and take it to a hydraulic shop. Have you ever checked the system pressure on your machine?
I do have a new Cutler Hammer joystick though.
pyro-1955
Active Member
Still not seeing any numbers, I have over 50 acres of hay to do right now, so unless it's raining I won't likely have time to look any closer, I did look at all these potential locations and it looks like just smooth metal. It is "dual fuel" does anyone have any idea as to when that option was offered, I am thinking it may help me narrow down what year or at least closer? Still pretty sure it's a 40F, but the control panel does not look like the one in the manual for the 40F... Here is a picture of the controls, I know it's not great, but does this help at all to figure out approximate age/model?
OFF
Senior Member
Just by the layout of your machine and the PQ controllers, I would say it is fairly late production. 1978 or newer.
pyro-1955
Active Member
Thanks, I have to say, this site, and you guys are a life saver. I really like my machine and expect I will have it a long time. I do have one other dumb question, on mine the Alternator is actually way way too close to the oil filter, so much so, that the previous owner actually dented in the oil filter to give clearance to the alternator.... The belt appears to be way too short, does anyone know what the correct belt number is??? I see the tension bolt on the belt appears to be in the wrong bolt hole.... Likely due to the belt being too short, the belt also looks suspiciously new...
OFF
Senior Member
couldn't find a belt number for you, certainly sounds like it's too short alright. Maybe one of the other 40F owners have a alternator belt with a visable part number on it?
RSIGuy
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the response, I can't access the forum on my home Ipad for some unknown reason all the sudden so couldn't response last night and just got back from the job tearing it open. I got the stick fixed but should still get the one from you for a back up.
I took the drive motor off and going to take it into a Hydraulic Shop that works on lifts but a little afraid since these guys are famous for big prices on repairs, apparently the guy who put the seals in the last 2 times doesn't sound like the wise choice though. BTW there is not 4 lines to it or anything plugged off, strange since both Hydraulic schematics show 4 . I've got to get it to stop leaking so I can get some new skins on the rear.
We took the brake off the top of the swivel and replaced the flat o-rings but there is still seepage from the center shaft and without much to go on for a parts breakdown I didn't want to pull it completely off with no idea how or if parts were available. Still no pressure check done. Do you think anyone has a breakdown on the swivel motor?
RSIGuy
Well-Known Member
Pyro, I just left mine but I'll ask one of the guys to look for a number or measure the length. I know there is a tab mounted at the base of the engine for the bracket. I'll see if he can take a pic for you. I may need a direct email as this forum requires photo's to be compressed (at least from my camera phones).
excavator
Senior Member
RSI Guy, I am currently working on an early JLG 40F and it does not have a case drain line from either travel motor. The rotary manifold has the port in the post but it is not threaded for a fitting. Should be easy enough to thread the post and add the line, just take a 1/4" line from both motors, install a T and follow the travel motor lines up to the rotary manifold and tap into the bottom of the post. From the top of the rotary the line T's into one of the existing drain lines on the side of the hyd. tank towards the bottom. One travel motor on this machine also keeps blowing the seals out when they try to use hi drive. This should solve the problem.