Benjamin Herd
Well-Known Member
Yes sir I have a parts manual
Mr. Ben I'm in the same situation. The seals have give way. I will stay tuned to see how it goes for you.Good evening, I came home from work today and was getting ready to hope on my TD7E and clean out some underbrush when I noticed my left track tension was a little loose. I fired the dozer up to let it warm and grabbed the grease gun to tighten the track. I tightened it up and put the cap on. When I came back to get on it I noticed the tension had slack in it again. I grabbed the grease gun again and noticed that I had grease comminout from behind the fork and the track would not tighten. I've looked in the computer to see if my dozer had a master link or pin and I can't find any info anywhere! Any help would be greatly appreciated. This will be my first attempt to split the tracks as well as fixing the track tensioner. So any and all help, pointers or whatever you can say to help will be greatly appreciated.
My serial # is. 441002U009869
Thank you
Check out the pin location. remarkable.Most will require at least 50 ton to get moving, even the small ones. A gas axe to heat the link ears(SLIGHTLY) as another is mashing the pin can get it moving without destroying the link or the pin. This was removing the rails from my parts donor:
View attachment 183180
How do you identify a warn out under carriage? I did not notice any wear on the rollers when i bought .I am going through the same thing on a 100e. if the front idler has enough play where it is moving around excessively then it will more than likely not be rebuildable. the seal housings that you are trying to take off gets beat out and a seal will not go back in. also the housing is nla. The bushings inside are only 1/8" thick as well. I reamed my idler out in the drill press and turned out a new shaft then put a grease fitting in it. best to just run the old undercarriage until it will not stay on it anymore. replacing bits and pieces here and there will nickle and dime you to death and you still have a worn out undercarriage.
Thank You for your response. Now im looking for an upper roller.You don't need to remove the track to change the track tensioner on a TD7E. Just jack it up and remove the sprocket. You can then pull the track forward enough to get the tensioner out. That is how I did it on my TD7E when I had a similar problem. Seal kit was $20, and I paid a guy $75 to hone out the inside of the cylinder, as it was all rusted and pitted. Works for now, anyways. Got to do the other side. Love my TD7E.