TD7E Track adjuster help

[Benjamin Herd]

Good evening, I came home from work today and was getting ready to hope on my TD7E and clean out some underbrush when I noticed my left track tension was a little loose. I fired the dozer up to let it warm and grabbed the grease gun to tighten the track. I tightened it up and put the cap on. When I came back to get on it I noticed the tension had slack in it again. I grabbed the grease gun again and noticed that I had grease comminout from behind the fork and the track would not tighten. I've looked in the computer to see if my dozer had a master link or pin and I can't find any info anywhere! Any help would be greatly appreciated. This will be my first attempt to split the tracks as well as fixing the track tensioner. So any and all help, pointers or whatever you can say to help will be greatly appreciated.
My serial # is. 441002U009869
Thank you

 

[DMiller]

Yours will be master pin rails, will need to examine the heads of the pins, one will have a drilling or dimple where the others will be smooth, that is the master pin. Adjuster cylinder will be similar to a 175 loader, just a piston in a bore with lip seals, Not sure where to find them around you but Dresser dealers would have access, most hydraulic shops will have close matches.

 

[Benjamin Herd]

Thank you Dmiller! I hope to tackle it tomorrow and see what all I need. Is there a certain measurement on the pins, top, bottom and front idler that I can mic to see what percentage my undercarriage is? I figured if I'm going to bust the tracks I might as well check it all over from top to bottom.
Thanks
Ben

 

[DMiller]

You should have 6" pitch rails, pick a pin preferably at the leading edge of a link set, count to the fifth pin away across four link sets, measure from either face edge( front or back) on the first pin to the same face edge of the fifth, divide that number by four and you get an average of pin to bushing wear. Sorry to say .125 inches greater than 6" is 100% worn slick. For four links would be 24.60. Are other measurements, link Height, bushing diameter, wear of sprocket and idler. Those can be looked at after figure pin to bushing wear.

 

[Benjamin Herd]

Awesome Dmiller that will help alot

 

[DMiller]

I will forewarn you as with my dear old Allis the replacement rails are made of Unobtanium, a very Scarce commodity that is generally only found in hidden NOS sitting in old dark warehouses long forgotten. Allis Fiat Allis IH Dresser and a Few odd Case tractors used the same rails, they are all but used up and gone now.

 

[Benjamin Herd]

What does that mean Dmiller?

 

[DMiller]

No Longer Made, anywhere. If can locate any forgotten New Old Stock would be extremely lucky as most is already Gone. Pins and bushings next to impossible as well to obtain either. Some get lucky finding rails on Surplus sales or some shop trying to unload old inventory taking up space but that is getting ever slimmer. On worn sprockets could maybe get by with D30 Komatsu(if those still available) rails or 935/931 Cat rails as a close to half life measurement for the IH rails but shoes could be a issue as to width where may have to have those manufacturer units cut down to fit foot print. Komatsu are 6.06 pitch Cat is 6.12 yet either would be decent in average condition if your pins and bushing wear is excessive.

 

[Benjamin Herd]

Ok gotcha. Ive priced places like AMS and TNM. So those are the cheap made rails?

 

[DMiller]

If they have them and you are just personal use should outlast yourself. I have cohorts that tried to buy for Allis 6" and were turned away even as the measurements are same across these makes.

Then again they may be quoting a set that is for a D30 they know Will Fit.

 

[Benjamin Herd]

I told them TD7E and gave them the serial number but who knows. I'm not there with them.

 

[DMiller]

May have NOS Dresser so could be lucked out.

 

[Grady]

How much are chains for the td7e? You don't have to mention which company. Just curious because I know it's coming one of these days. Mine has some Berco undercarriage parts.

 

[Benjamin Herd]

Grady, from the places I priced anywhere from $950 to $1,100 per side. A couple were salt track with 4,000 hr warranty.

 

[Bluox]

How did you go from adjuster seals to new chains? the right seals are available from Komatsu . If your idlers are all the way out to the stop bolts and the bushings aren't broke you can short track ,remove a link.
Make sure the track sales are quoting 6" pitch chains and not 6 1/2" chains as later TD7's used .
Good luck
Bob

 

[Benjamin Herd]

Hey Bob. My mechanic was suppose to be by Saturday to look at it and help guage the life of my UC while changing the seal so I just did come price checking on undercarriage just in case. Thanks fo the info on the pads.

 

[Benjamin Herd]

Ok Guys, today is the day! Getting ready to try and split the track to get started changing the track adjuster seal kit. I hope it's the right one. The after market part# is 906001. It said for after serial 9501 so hopefully. It looks small but we will see. This is my first time doing this so here is what I have planned. Find the master pin. Block the dozer up on blocks. Position the pin behind the front idler and knock the hell out of it and hope it moves. Then lay the track out from. Attach a sling to my front idler and slitit forward. If you have any pointers please send them to me. I hope the other seal is somewhat atsti intact so I can see how it goes in.
Thanks
Ben

 

[DMiller]

Knew guys that could hit square used a Rail Spike hammer, I was never that good and never got on to move with one of those so used a 20# sledge welded a pipe to the link ear or attached to track shoe welded to plates and either clamps or welded to shoe to use a drift bar and get the pin moving, saves tapping the pin holder rather Hard!!!

 

[Benjamin Herd]

I have it blocked and getting ready to hammer like a little mad man. I was wondering if I could press it out with a porta power from the back side maybe?

 

[DMiller]

Most will require at least 50 ton to get moving, even the small ones. A gas axe to heat the link ears(SLIGHTLY) as another is mashing the pin can get it moving without destroying the link or the pin. This was removing the rails from my parts donor: