Section for komatsu d20,21 and similar grey market dozers

[rangerfreak]

sry darin made a typo on dozer model number my dozer is actually a d20A-5 is the correct engine 4d95s,cant find the tag plate

 

[darinray]

Nope yours is a 4D94.

 

[rangerfreak]

merry xmas eve everyone.have a happy holidays

 

[Ron]

Operating question

I'm using a D20 to build a driveway around my shop. There's a lot of dirt to be removed on one side and the problem I'm having is I'll be pushing along, going great, and all of a sudden the blade will nose-dive making a huge gouge. What have I got to do to make it quit this?:Banghead

 

[FurakawaMatt]

I'm using a D20 to build a driveway around my shop. There's a lot of dirt to be removed on one side and the problem I'm having is I'll be pushing along, going great, and all of a sudden the blade will nose-dive making a huge gouge. What have I got to do to make it quit this?:Banghead

I have found when having to remove a lot of topsoil that for me it works best to break it into stages. First is the rough in stage where you get the majority of material off. It is best not to try to push the whole ground but to start on the end you are moving soil towards and than as the soil is moved off, keep moving backwards . This way you are not pushing against greater resistance for a longer way.

Once you have removed the bulk you can do the finishing where you are only moving smaller amounts of soil so the weight of the soil is less likely to cause you to dig in. It can also helps running in a higher gear and doing a very light cut. Some dozer blades can float but unless you are careful you can end up with a constant series of up and downs as the blade grabs a rock or root.

It comes down to the skill of the operator and the ability of the machine to end up with a level smooth surface. Some of the laser blade levelers that the big boys can afford must be great to have. I just have a simple two way bubble level that I attached to my Dozer when I knew I was on a level surface that provides a visual quick check for me.

Good fortune on your driveway project.

 

[Ron]

That's what I was afraid of..

 

[JimInOz]

Mitsubishi BS3F Bevel Seals..

Just wondering if I need to remove the Bevel gear to renew the 2 seals near the steering cases.Both seals are leaking oil from bevel case to steering cases.I was hoping to just remove the steer drum couplings.
Has anybody done this job before?

Thanks,
Jim

 

[Wylie5]

Re: Your Komutsu D21 P

Hi, Now that you have had your machine for a while do you thik that you will be installing a set of doing rippers on her soon.

Cheers Wheelybin.

I think this MIGHT do it. Ran it about six hours today. No problems at all. Other than the dog.

 

[joemorgan]

D20A-6 Question

Can anyone tell me the procedure for adjusting the valves on a 1988 D20A-6 4D95S-W-1 engine and the adjustment specs? The owners manual says to adjust every 2000 hours, how critical is this?

 

[darinray]

Just wondering if I need to remove the Bevel gear to renew the 2 seals near the steering cases.Both seals are leaking oil from bevel case to steering cases.I was hoping to just remove the steer drum couplings.
Has anybody done this job before?

Thanks,
Jim

Hello Jim,

Did you get to the bevel gear seals yet? I think it's all done inside from the steering clutch compartment. You have to take the flange off and then replace seal. Keep us posted and hopefully your better than me and actually take pictures while you work. I can't seem to remember to grab the camera when I'm all greasy. A lot of people here do and I think that is GREAT. Take care and good luck.

Darin

 

[JimInOz]

Hello Jim,

Did you get to the bevel gear seals yet? I think it's all done inside from the steering clutch compartment. You have to take the flange off and then replace seal. Keep us posted and hopefully your better than me and actually take pictures while you work. I can't seem to remember to grab the camera when I'm all greasy. A lot of people here do and I think that is GREAT. Take care and good luck.

Darin

Hi Darin,
I always take pictures as I go.I find it invaluable,esp. if the repair is gonna take some time & things fade from memory.Last BS3 steering repair I did was 10 years ago...on an E model.I still have pictures of that job.

I'm thinking that the flange will pull out & make seal replacement easy.....however,I have tried using 3 extractor bolts (on the LH side)& put some pull on the flange,but it's not gonna move easily.I don't want to put too much stress on the bevel bearings,so I'm wondering about my next move.
I think I'll try pulling the steering from the RH side & see if that flange will pull out.The steering needs to come out anyway.
My main concern is hurting the bevel bearings,whilst pulling the flanges.
Any thoughts are welcome...

PICTURES: First is my BS3F breakdown ( bevel shaft & flanges ,with no bevel in pic) & Second is my LH steering after removal.

Thanks
Jim

 

[darinray]

Shoot it sounds like you have a handle on this then. Normally the flanges come off with the extractor bolts applied with even pressure. All of a sudden *bang* and it's loose. Or try some wedges driving in between flange and the body. Heat is never fun down there as the torches normally start a nice fire and smoke BUT sometimes is only way. I keep a garden hose right by. Good luck and keep us posted.

Darin

 

[JimInOz]

Hi Darin,
I'm hoping the flange is just a bit tight & will extract with that sudden "BANG!" that we like to hear.
The steering shaft/flange took a bit of pressing before it made that noise....

I was wondering about heat in that area...it might make extraction easy,but with oil & degreaser in the steer case,I ain't going there just yet...

Jim

 

[maniac]

Jim,
Please use caution when useing a torch in an area where degreaser has been applied . I read an article a while back about some degreasers put off toxic fumes when heated . The article was about a man found dead in his shop where he had been working on his car , trying to remove a breakdrum that had been cleaned with a spray degreaser , by heating it with a torch . Please look into it furthur , I know we have all done it but they are useing different chemicals all the time now.. after I read that , I don't do that anymore , thanks for reading , Paul

 

[maniac]

I found a link on degreasers being heated , everyone please read this , it COULD save your life , thanks , Paul
http://www.brewracingframes.com/id75.htm

 

[JimInOz]

Hi Paul,
I'll read your link shortly.
I'm usually very cautious with flame & any chemicals I use in the shed.
I found out that degreaser burns easy ,when I welded a bolt I was trying to extract ,& it caught fire after being cleaned in degreaser.
I built my shed with 3 sides only,so airflow ain't a drama here.

On a side note,I found that the degreaser SEEMED to clean up my oily/greasy fibre steering discs.I tidied them up with degreaser,wiped them clean,air-dried them & used brake cleaner on them.
They look OK,but unsure how they will perform....

Here's some pics of my BS3F steering...

Jim

 

[maniac]

I hope you do take the time to read it , it's not about it being flammable , its about one little wiff can kill you days later , just trying to help , thanks , Paul

 

[JimInOz]

Ok Guys,
I got my Mitsubishi BS3F Bevel seals out,without too much hassle.
While everything is well made on these machines,their tech manuals are typically Japanese...sparse info on step-by-step procedures.Compared to IH service manuals,the Jap stuff is a failure.
Anyway,I'm gonna replace the leaky seals & the advice is to fill the seal lip with grease.Why the grease? Is it to keep seal expanded,or for sealing ability?

I'm wondering if there are any other tips or checks I should make,while I'm this far into the machine?
Any advice is appreciated.

(First pic is general bevel area,second pic is extracting hubs to get to bevel seals.)

Thanks,

Jim

 

[darinray]

Hello Jim, nice work there and looks like you keep things nice and clean while working too> What is the weld on your right side clutch area wall?

The grease I've been told is just for lube and keep the rubber coated so it doesn't dry out. ????

 

[JimInOz]

Hi Darin,
Thanks for the advice on the grease.I just filled it up anyway,thinking it wasn't gonna do much harm.
The weld is an original casing weld,although I noticed that this machine had a few rough-looking welds,even on the hubs.Seems to be strong enough,though.
Yeah,I like to tidy up the work area...nothing worse that dropping a clean bolt into a heap of goo ..I tend to clean & wash everything,which is why I take forever to fix something.