tpitt
Well-Known Member
I was going to use a diverter valve off my blade angle lever. It's a work in progress. lol
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Section for komatsu d20,21 and similar grey market dozers
- Thread starter rangerfreak
- Start date
More weirdness ... After pressure-washing my dozer under the rear-deck , today I cleaned under the main floorboards . It might be advisable if you have not done this . There were oily rags ( possible fire hazard ) , and clumps of oil-caked dirt under the transmission and clutch , as well as drink cans and food wrappers . I finally had to pull the inspection plate to wash everything out ... The little doors for the idler-wheels were in bad shape . The previous owner had let dirt cake up on them , on both sides , causing lots of rust spots . I finally had to unbolt the housings to expose the springs , to get all of the dirt blasted out . As I lifted the cover off , a lizard leaped out . Not a local lizard , but a GECKO . No , it didn't drive a little car or try to sell me insurance , but it stared at me with tiny cat-eyes , then its spotted body went deeper into the dozer before I could grab it . I can't help but wonder how long it has lived in there , especially without getting crushed . I guess it sleeps by day , and comes out at night to hunt . So , what's in your dozer ?
I evened-out the steering levers today . The linkage looks 'balanced' - each side seems adjusted the same . After thinking about things , I pulled off both brake-adjusting caps . I bottomed them out the same , then backed each one out 4 turns (the left had fewer turns than the right side) . Voila' - they are now equal ... I pushed some dirt around today , and the non-existent right-steering seems fine now .
Okay, did that. It turned out to be exactly the same manual I already have, with the same missing info. There is an engine section but the info in it is limited to removing and replacing the engine, removing the cylinder head and other external engine components...nothing on the bottom end at all, no torque settings and no cam timing info, so I still need this info if anyone has it available. Mostly the torque specs, I paid attention to the timing marks and such when I tore it down.
The crank came back from the grinder in Sacramento yesterday. They had to weld up the crank and nitride and grind it to the tune of 500 bucks. And they couldn't find any bearings for it so I've got inquiries in to Kent Baugh and WPI, hope something pans out there.
RRRancher
Well-Known Member
TigerDan, they also have an engine manual in PDF format on the same website. I apologize for not checking the shop manual engine section, but I have never been in that section on mine before and didn't realize it was pretty basic in content. I downloaded the engine manual for mine and it has the complete disassembly/assembly instructions, with torque values and all. I'm not sure which exact engine you have there, but if you don't want to download the manual, and mine covers the engine you are working on, I'll be glad to supply you with screen shots of mine. This manual I downloaded covers the 3D95S-W-1, 4D95S-1, 4D95L and the 6D95L series engines.
Cav, that is great news. Glad to hear you got it all adjusted out properly and can now move dirt like a boss. Assuming you use it regularly, I am going to guess that you will have very little, if any problems with the steering again for a long time. Mine has been doing just fine since I last adjusted it back in 2010.
Love the lizard story. There are plenty of hiding places for sure.
Cav, that is great news. Glad to hear you got it all adjusted out properly and can now move dirt like a boss. Assuming you use it regularly, I am going to guess that you will have very little, if any problems with the steering again for a long time. Mine has been doing just fine since I last adjusted it back in 2010.
Love the lizard story. There are plenty of hiding places for sure.
I did download the PDF version of the manual. I'll check and see if I can find the engine manual. The engine I'm working on is the 4D95S-W-1. I can PM you my email address and maybe you could email the relevant sections to me? I'd really appreciate that.
I just got a response back from Kent Baugh. They won't sell me the bearings only, I have to buy the complete engine overhaul kit for $900 which includes bearings, gasket sets, liners, pistons and rings. Not looking to do a complete overhaul of this engine but if that's the only way I can get the parts, I may as well. Hopefully the news from WPI will be better, if not, then the search for bearings continues...
I just got a response back from Kent Baugh. They won't sell me the bearings only, I have to buy the complete engine overhaul kit for $900 which includes bearings, gasket sets, liners, pistons and rings. Not looking to do a complete overhaul of this engine but if that's the only way I can get the parts, I may as well. Hopefully the news from WPI will be better, if not, then the search for bearings continues...
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RRRancher
Well-Known Member
This should be the manual you need. Twenty bucks, but it probably has everything you need. I don't know if the specs in my manual would be correct for your engine.
https://www.tradebit.com/filedetail.php/148156606-komatsu-4d95l-6d95l-3d95s-4d95s-s4d95l-s6d95l
https://www.tradebit.com/filedetail.php/148156606-komatsu-4d95l-6d95l-3d95s-4d95s-s4d95l-s6d95l
Lcumbestj
New Member
I have a d21p i pulled hydraulic pump off trans to replace leaking seal around the shaft and when i mounted it back on the transmission will not engage when put into gear forwards or reverse. Checked fluids and valves with plenty of pressure and checked screen in bottom of the pan
Instead of tapping into the hydraulics , has anybody tried using an electric-actuator to power a 3-point hitch ? I've seen them rated up to 1000 lbs. , up to 24" travel , 12- and 24-volts . It would be used for a ripper or box-blade ... I guess a PTO would be a lot more difficult to engineer . I have a 3-point backhoe attachment that I'd like to hang on my D-20 P . Unfortunately , its not the self-powered model ...
RRRancher
Well-Known Member
Lcumbestj, I have no idea what may be wrong on yours. Definitely not anything I have ever messed with.
Cav, there was a lot of discussion on rear mounting stuff, PTO drive, etc way back in some earlier posts, but I don't remember the details. I do know that one guy successfully tied into the hydraulics and mounted a cylinder behind his cab for something. He gave some good info on the control needed and the tie in. Just don't have time to go find it right now.
Cav, there was a lot of discussion on rear mounting stuff, PTO drive, etc way back in some earlier posts, but I don't remember the details. I do know that one guy successfully tied into the hydraulics and mounted a cylinder behind his cab for something. He gave some good info on the control needed and the tie in. Just don't have time to go find it right now.
Hello RRR . Yes , I saw the earlier stuff . I was looking at the electric-actuator as an economic 'plug and play' alternative to messing with the hydraulic-system ... I never saw an answer to the PTO problem ...
RRRancher
Well-Known Member
Oh yeah, if I just needed to raise or lower something on the back of the dozer, I would definitely go with the electric approach too. Much easier to tie into the batteries than the hydraulics. Let us know what you find, if you come up with something. I have thought about building myself a ripper of sorts as I have lots of iron ore just beneath the surface that the blade doesn't want to dig into. I too thought about an electric lift for it, but that will have to come after I get my house built and moved out to the property. Right now, it's just the weekends out there, and there is way too much to do just to keep up. Will be nice to have every evening to do things also.
I found this link as a source :
http://www.surpluscenter.com/Electrical/Linear-Actuators/DC-Linear-Actuators/?page_no=2
Tractor Supply and Northern Tool handle hydraulic-cylinders and smaller actuators . I'm sure there are other sources for both items . Tractor Supply also has lift-arms and associated hardware , as does Agri-Supply , but I think I'll have to fab the dozer rear-mounts . I'll use the existing threaded holes , which will save a lot of work . The pics from the N.Z. company , featuring the add-on ripper , are a help ... I already have a 5' box-blade that I'm planning to mount , for starters . I have a small Yanmar for the backhoe , but without a front-end loader on it , its not real stable . I've considered mounting a horizontal-shaft gas-motor to power the backhoe when mounted on my D-20 , as I don't see an easy way to do a PTO . Some are sold , manufactured that way ... I'm wondering how well replacement box-blade rippers would hold up , if used to fabricate a root-rake for the blade ? I'm thinking about hanging a detachable 4" or 6" tubing with slots milled through it . Most rippers have 3 or 4 adjustment holes in them , so they could be adjustable . Soil here is thin , with yellow clay beneath - no rocks , and most of the big trees are gone . I guess it could be dragged , with modification . The rippers could be easily changed if damaged .
http://www.surpluscenter.com/Electrical/Linear-Actuators/DC-Linear-Actuators/?page_no=2
Tractor Supply and Northern Tool handle hydraulic-cylinders and smaller actuators . I'm sure there are other sources for both items . Tractor Supply also has lift-arms and associated hardware , as does Agri-Supply , but I think I'll have to fab the dozer rear-mounts . I'll use the existing threaded holes , which will save a lot of work . The pics from the N.Z. company , featuring the add-on ripper , are a help ... I already have a 5' box-blade that I'm planning to mount , for starters . I have a small Yanmar for the backhoe , but without a front-end loader on it , its not real stable . I've considered mounting a horizontal-shaft gas-motor to power the backhoe when mounted on my D-20 , as I don't see an easy way to do a PTO . Some are sold , manufactured that way ... I'm wondering how well replacement box-blade rippers would hold up , if used to fabricate a root-rake for the blade ? I'm thinking about hanging a detachable 4" or 6" tubing with slots milled through it . Most rippers have 3 or 4 adjustment holes in them , so they could be adjustable . Soil here is thin , with yellow clay beneath - no rocks , and most of the big trees are gone . I guess it could be dragged , with modification . The rippers could be easily changed if damaged .
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I built a brush rake (root rake) for my D-21...if I can find the pics, I'll throw them on here.
To many teeth for a ripper (of sorts) but, works well for brush. Pinned at the top and free at the bottom, needs to be to get off the pile!!
To many teeth for a ripper (of sorts) but, works well for brush. Pinned at the top and free at the bottom, needs to be to get off the pile!!
I want, I want, that would make a complete package for these little sh*ts and...help with the balance too!!!
Good job - looks like what they call a "Deluxe Model" here ... There's a few companies that offer them custom-made . The rippers are 12" apart , but some offer them spaced at 6" . Maybe it depends on the soil type ?
Not sure if this is the correct way to ask a question on this Komatsu thread but, here it goes...I now have a D-21A-7. It has/had rubber tracks and they went to ****. I'm looking for rails and pads now but, hard to find in Thailand. I took the tracks off and noticed some slop in the front idlers. I've got them separated from the yokes and one on the bench. I got the end caps off and was lost. I had a guy tell me to take out the nuts on top (one on each side) and drive that pin out (top to bottom). Can I say "NO WAY"? I've pounded the **** out of em and thought I would be smart and leave the nuts on at the end of the pin. Holy ****!!!! I even heated up around the outside, had oil soak over night...it won't budge. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!!!!
Needed to be sure before I commented but, went to the tree farm and yepper, my shanks are 30cm (12") center to center. I need to build another one with like 3 shanks and call it a ripper...bare backed Cats suck!!!!!!
I've thought about that too. My issues were: 1) you can't pick very high. 2) once you get it up the forks won't be level. If a person wanted to pick something (say a pallet) carry it to another location and set it down...I'd guess, the weight of the Cat, most of which will depend on "how far out is the load" leverage in this case would be your enemy.
What about the same concept and hang a short set of "gin poles" with a come-a-long, chain hoist (of sorts)? Now you have some stroke!!!!