This is far and away the best written how to that I've ever found. I have a T190 from about 2001 and have a spool leak. I was worried that it would be more than I wanted to do, but after reading your thread, I decided to tackle it. I have had the valve out before, and never wanted to do that again! Even with the factory manual, it was all too confusing. The only. Unfortunate part is that my machine has the fuel tank tower like a previous poster had, but after reading the response to that, I realized that I'm on the right track. Thanks again Willie59!!
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Replacing Bobcat loader control valve seals
- Thread starter willie59
- Start date
willie59
Administrator
Good to hear the info helped Philosaw. I just wish the pics were better. At that time when I was taking the pics my Blackberry was in the early stages of going downhill, especially when taking pics, didn't notice it until after the job was done and everything was buttoned up.
I thought the pics were totally adequate. I just came up from my shop where I was referring to your pics to get my spools back in with the seals in the right position Etc. I couldn't ask for more. I did have to disconnect darn near every hose except the main feed on the bottom, thanks to small favors! Anyway, thanks to your help and a couple of the replys, I'm on my way to yet another nasty repair on this god for shaken piece of hydraulic frustration!
willie59
Administrator
LoL, that's a good description! I've always referred to them as "working on top of a porcupine down in a hole".
Great help... many thanks to the original poster and those who have added input... my unit a low hour one operator 2001 753... a few points for this 753 it does in fact have the spool lock, and yes it is very tight... I had to unbolt the front metal shield (the part that the hand controls are mounted to) and pull it forward and I unbolted the mount that holds the manual red valve mine has rubber lines to it so it can be pulled out of the way, the FRONT was pretty easy I did have to turn ignition on and press green button to remove spool lock... how would I have EVER known that if not for the information here... on the rear of the valve... I had to zip tie a few lines to the side... BUT the main BEACH was that I had to remove the rubber fuel line fill and vent tubes from fill to tank... the top clamp on the fill line is no problem but the clamps are the factory spring clamps and the release (the part you squeeze) on the tank both are facing the rear...the fill line is right behind the vent line to the tank... I was able to reach these from the lower left side of the engine compartment.. the vent line had to come off first... it's a LONG reach and the extra long needle nose pliers came in handy...
juan#3
Member
willie59,I am new in this forums and I need help ,I removed the valve control on my 753 bobcat (515815103 w/booss) on order to replace a seal on the tilt spool. when I did start ,I lift the arms and install the lift arms support device , and use the lift arm by-pass control knob, .now after I put everything back together I did turn on the engine and I drove the machine back and forward runs fine , but when I try to lift arms to disengage the lift arms support device, it do no lift at all, any suggestion ? I will appreciate.
mferraro76
Member
This thread is great. I have an s300 with a nasty leak. I have both hand and foot controls so there is no physical linkage to the spool rod. Any tricks to disassembly in this situation? TIA
willie59
Administrator
You have the actuators on your controls mferraro76, I haven't done one of those yet. Crewchief888 might be able to offer some advice on those.
crewchief888
Senior Member
You have the actuators on your controls mferraro76, I haven't done one of those yet. Crewchief888 might be able to offer some advice on those.
it's basically the same procedure, you just have to remove the actuators.
remove the 2 allen head bolts, pull the acuator away from the valve, then push out the pin that connects the actuator to the spool.
on ACS machines there are no spool locks in the valve.
:drinkup
mferraro76
Member
got it done no problem, thought I would post a few pics of the S300 spool rods. don't make fun of my rust ;0
very accessible in the S300, just lift the cab, remove the inspection covers and the rear tire and you have easy access to all the allen head bolts
very accessible in the S300, just lift the cab, remove the inspection covers and the rear tire and you have easy access to all the allen head bolts
mferraro76
Member
look how easy it is to get to them from the rear:
mferraro76
Member
and just like crewchief888 said, pull the actuator out, punch out the pin and everything comes apart after that:
I replaced 7 seals in total, 3 O-rings (2 between spacer and valve body, 1 on bottom actuator) and 4 spool seals. will run it tomorrow and check for leaks but looks good so far.
just want to say thanks willie and crewchief for your contribution to this site, it made my day a lot easier.
I replaced 7 seals in total, 3 O-rings (2 between spacer and valve body, 1 on bottom actuator) and 4 spool seals. will run it tomorrow and check for leaks but looks good so far.
just want to say thanks willie and crewchief for your contribution to this site, it made my day a lot easier.
willie59
Administrator
Good to see you got it sorted out. Thanks for the pics. :drinkup
Great tutorial. My neighbor has a 863F with fluid spraying from that tiny relief hole in the upper cap. After reading this thread, I offered to fix it for him. He was leery of his dealer for some reason so he brought it over.
It took me about 8 hours to do the seals, what a pain. What do people charge for this procedure?
we are bartering stuff and I don't know what this is worth.
I found it impossible to get slip joint pliers onto the E clip down there. I just fashioned a 1x2 stick about 10 inches long. It fit in between all the hydraulic pipe and allowed me to push straight down on the heel of the clip, popping it on. The soft wood "bites" onto the clip to keep it from slipping and flying away.
It took me about 8 hours to do the seals, what a pain. What do people charge for this procedure?
we are bartering stuff and I don't know what this is worth.
I found it impossible to get slip joint pliers onto the E clip down there. I just fashioned a 1x2 stick about 10 inches long. It fit in between all the hydraulic pipe and allowed me to push straight down on the heel of the clip, popping it on. The soft wood "bites" onto the clip to keep it from slipping and flying away.
crewchief888
Senior Member
on an 863F it would probably take me 3-4 hours to do spool seals front and rear...
it's only the 1st 1000 or so that are hard to do, it gets a lot easier after that
:drinkup
it's only the 1st 1000 or so that are hard to do, it gets a lot easier after that
:drinkup
Just found this forum
773 G series with AHC, is it best to reseal both even if just one is leaking? Looking like it might be easier to get apart by doing both. Bottom one is leaking. Also are there detent balls to worry about, parts diagram that dealer sent doesn't show any?
773 G series with AHC, is it best to reseal both even if just one is leaking? Looking like it might be easier to get apart by doing both. Bottom one is leaking. Also are there detent balls to worry about, parts diagram that dealer sent doesn't show any?
willie59
Administrator
Welcome to HEF CowGuy. :drinkup
I haven't done an AHC myself, not much I can advise on that one, crewchief888 would know more about that than I.
I haven't done an AHC myself, not much I can advise on that one, crewchief888 would know more about that than I.
crewchief888
Senior Member
early AHC machines had a different lift spool set up.
theres an easy way to tell if you have a detent assembly on the lift.
if the middle and bottom spools have different length aluminum caps on them, then you have a detent in the lift.
if they are the same length you dont.
once you have the bolts out of the cap, as long as you dont pull on the detent assy, it wont come apart.
push from the front of the valve until you can get ahold of the spool itself from the rear
:drinkup
Thanks for the replies
Got the seals out, one had a chunk blown out. Putting back together and having trouble getting actuator pinned back together. Is there some kind of secret? Do the seals need to be put in the body and then put spool in? I put the back one on and put spool in and then put the front one in. Wish I had tried to get a better look inside before I pulled the old ones out.
Got the seals out, one had a chunk blown out. Putting back together and having trouble getting actuator pinned back together. Is there some kind of secret? Do the seals need to be put in the body and then put spool in? I put the back one on and put spool in and then put the front one in. Wish I had tried to get a better look inside before I pulled the old ones out.