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Replacing Bobcat loader control valve seals
- Thread starter willie59
- Start date
willie59
Administrator
Sounds like you found your problem timstar. I hope you get it sorted out. 
thanks I did not get it all back together today to start the machine . but the pedal seems to move freely now.Sounds like you found your problem timstar. I hope you get it sorted out.
I wanted to ask you about the pliers and how they make it easier to get the ball bearings and springs in the detent cup . i tried a few ways and only had lost one bearing a zip tie almost worked !.. i then got a helper to hold the shaft and cup with one bearing in and i used a wire connector pin tool to compress the other bearing it cupped the bearing nicely and worked quickly.
willie59
Administrator
Hey, whatever tool you can pull out of the box to make it work, hoist a mug timstar, sometimes a job requires creative imagination. :drinkup
I've only done a couple of those detent mechanisms in the past, and pretty much did what you did, figured out a way to do it with what i had to work with. One Bobcat wrench once told me that Knipex alligator nose pliers works good for this project. > http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00929113000P?mv=rr&clicked=true
I've only done a couple of those detent mechanisms in the past, and pretty much did what you did, figured out a way to do it with what i had to work with. One Bobcat wrench once told me that Knipex alligator nose pliers works good for this project. > http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00929113000P?mv=rr&clicked=true
snow7899
New Member
Would this apply to a s185? Have to do mine real soon. Thanks awesome write up.
willie59
Administrator
If you have standard foot pedal controls, not advanced hand controls or selectable joysticks, it should be pretty much the same thing.
snow7899
New Member
Does anyone have the part numbers for the seals? Dealer wants to sell me a complete reseal kit for the control valve assembly.
willie59
Administrator
I know my Bobcat dealer will sell me just the seals I need, I don't see why yours couldn't do the same. Although it's likely the same seals used on other models, it's best to verify parts by s/n to make sure they're correct. If you have standard foot controls you'll need 4 of the spool seals, the 2 o-rings for the spool lock section, and possibly the 2 shaft dust boots.
BSM773
Active Member
When i replace the seals in my 773, the bobcat dealer told me they didnt sell just the seals. So i gave $86 for the kit.
willie59
Administrator
Damn, I feel for you fellows as I can purchase just the seals I need from my dealer. :beatsme
ben hoe
Member
hi Guys,
Been a long time lurker here at HEF, haven't posted much, but threads like this one have been a life (and wallet) saver.
Doing this procedure on my T190 (2004), and got all the way to the point where I am pulling the lower spool out the back, and I ran into an issue:
Now what do I do? there is no play to get it out, so I guess that means I have to pull out the whole body?
Second question, my original reason for doing this was because the boom will slowly drift down, which probably wont be solved by just replacing these green outer seals and reassembling - as I think more about it, I probably need to pull the whole control valve body and tear it down and rebuild.
Anyone think I'm off on this?
Thanks
Been a long time lurker here at HEF, haven't posted much, but threads like this one have been a life (and wallet) saver.
Doing this procedure on my T190 (2004), and got all the way to the point where I am pulling the lower spool out the back, and I ran into an issue:
Now what do I do? there is no play to get it out, so I guess that means I have to pull out the whole body?
Second question, my original reason for doing this was because the boom will slowly drift down, which probably wont be solved by just replacing these green outer seals and reassembling - as I think more about it, I probably need to pull the whole control valve body and tear it down and rebuild.
Anyone think I'm off on this?
Thanks
willie59
Administrator
Dang, I haven't done a T190 yet ben hoe, leave it up to Bobcat to throw a monkey wrench in the spokes by making the spool hit a corner of the fuel tank. :Banghead Maybe you could remove the control valve mounting bolts and pry the valve just enough to remove the spool? Don't know, never been there myself. Make sure the manual descent valve isn't causing your boom drift problem.
ben hoe
Member
Thanks for your quick response Willie. I will let you know how I end up solving it. Just to get this far I had to use your trick to move the front wall with the drive levers forward to access the front of the value body and also had to disconnect 4 hydraulic lines for the right drive motor.
The manual descent valve looks like just two O-rings according to my parts manual, is that all I should look at to verify its not bleeding by?
Thanks
Ben
The manual descent valve looks like just two O-rings according to my parts manual, is that all I should look at to verify its not bleeding by?
Thanks
Ben
willie59
Administrator
The manual descent rarely gives a problem, but just to be sure it's not causing boom drift I disconnect it from the circuit and plug/cap lines for testing purposes. When testing boom drift problem, I would typically start with checking cylinders, but you're already into the control valve doing spool seals so there's no sense putting it back together, then testing cylinders, and confirming cylinders are good, then go right back into the control valve. Might as well check control valve components since you're in there now.
Remove lift section BICS valve (item 1), replace o-rings and backup rings.
Remove the lift section port relief valve (item 1) located between BICS valve and control spool. It easiest to remove while you have the BICS valve removed and out of the way, replace o-rings and backup rings.
Another step you could do is remove the BICS valve for the tilt section (item 1), replace o-ring and backup rings, then switch the lift and tilt BICS valves as they are the same. This way if it's a faulty BICS valve causing the boom drift, you move the problem valve to the tilt section.
BTW, as long as backup rings are in good shape and not damaged/distorted you can reuse them, but do replace the o-rings. The skinny o-rings can be found in an "industrial o-ring kit", but the fat o-ring that seals valve installed into valve body is an "o-ring boss" size o-ring, not found in standard o-ring kit. They're a 900 series o-ring, i.e., 568-901, 568-902, etc.
Remove lift section BICS valve (item 1), replace o-rings and backup rings.
Remove the lift section port relief valve (item 1) located between BICS valve and control spool. It easiest to remove while you have the BICS valve removed and out of the way, replace o-rings and backup rings.
Another step you could do is remove the BICS valve for the tilt section (item 1), replace o-ring and backup rings, then switch the lift and tilt BICS valves as they are the same. This way if it's a faulty BICS valve causing the boom drift, you move the problem valve to the tilt section.
BTW, as long as backup rings are in good shape and not damaged/distorted you can reuse them, but do replace the o-rings. The skinny o-rings can be found in an "industrial o-ring kit", but the fat o-ring that seals valve installed into valve body is an "o-ring boss" size o-ring, not found in standard o-ring kit. They're a 900 series o-ring, i.e., 568-901, 568-902, etc.
Wanabe
Active Member
I'm ready to reseal the control valve on my 2000 863 G. Picked up the seal kit for $25...comes with the four seals two o-rings two dust boots and four new bolts and also has a very small o-ring and a small nylon pointed cylinder,not sure what that's for. Hope to get it done this weekend ... Praying you didn't leave out anything ...kinda worried about the little detent balls. Took the back tire off and it is easy access to both ends so looks to be a simple job compared to these others .wish me luck
Wanabe
Active Member
Got it done...everything went smooth! Had to remove the fuel filler hose and loosen one hydro line in order to pull the lower spool...thanks willie59 this was a lot of help.
willie59
Administrator
Good news to hear Wanabe. :drinkup
crewchief888
Senior Member
loosen the disconnect all the linkage, valve mounting bolts, and as many tubelines as you can easily access.
ratchet strap or come-a-long from the rearmost tubeline up to the cab.
i'd advise you also run a ratchet strap or come-a-long from the cab to the rear frame, even with the cab shock lock engaged just in case.
you'll be pulling up on the valve with a lot more force than you think.
as willie mentioned, you probably have other problems causing the boom to drift, unless the detent assembly is loose on the back of the valve, or the bonnet was very loose.
:drinkup
Hi Willie-
Can't thank you enough for posting this. 2 quick questions. Can I use wheel bearing grease instead of assembly grease, and when I enter the code to start the machine then put the seat bar down then press the operate button, I get all green light except the traction light. Is that enough to make the spool lock solenoid work to remove the assembly on the front? What does that do anyway?
Thanks again.
Can't thank you enough for posting this. 2 quick questions. Can I use wheel bearing grease instead of assembly grease, and when I enter the code to start the machine then put the seat bar down then press the operate button, I get all green light except the traction light. Is that enough to make the spool lock solenoid work to remove the assembly on the front? What does that do anyway?
Thanks again.
willie59
Administrator
Welcome to HEF andyjax. :drinkup
Wheel bearing grease? Well, I dunno, never used that before to lubricate seals on a hydraulic valve. :beatsme If you don't have assembly grease, a good coat of hydraulic oil on the components should do the trick.
When you press the buttons to power up the machine, but not starting the machine, then let the seat bar down, as long as you see the green LED light for the lift/tilt lock lit up then you should be able to remove the spool lock assembly at the control valve.
Wheel bearing grease? Well, I dunno, never used that before to lubricate seals on a hydraulic valve. :beatsme If you don't have assembly grease, a good coat of hydraulic oil on the components should do the trick.
When you press the buttons to power up the machine, but not starting the machine, then let the seat bar down, as long as you see the green LED light for the lift/tilt lock lit up then you should be able to remove the spool lock assembly at the control valve.