New Case 580 Super E project!

[Hokiesmokes]

I hope the suck bucket isn't like relative bearings. Glad to see I'm not the only one who has to resort to unapproved tactics to get things unscrewed. Only thing I can say is try Kroil, I've had that stuff work wonders, that and tapping almost always undoes it. You just spray and tap to work the solvent in then try to twist. Sometimes it takes a day or two going at it, but it works almost as good as heat.

 

[sporklift]

Hokiesmokes, I was wondering if a solvent would help... but afraid it would ruin the seals in the spools. I really don't want to have to rebuild the spools just yet. I've got PB Blaster.. good idea to stock up on kroil too, though.. I think I'm out.

 

[sporklift]

Guys, can you help me out on recommendations for what hose rating I need? If I don't figure it out, I'll be going with 2-wire 5/8" hose rated at 3500psi. Gotta order the hose stock today.

 

[willie59]

I'd say that would work fine for the hose you need. I don't think I've seen a backhoe boom with 4 wire hose.

 

[sporklift]

Mechanic ran off with my money - and cylinder!

Time for a very sad update. Before I start, everyone go read ATCO's sig.

My mobile mechanic went out of business... (apparently), taking with him one of my complete boom cylinders, a replacement boom cylinder tube and piston (new aftermarket parts), and $700 I gave him to buy a used boom cylinder.

The other hoe cylinders were rebuilt and mounted as promised, and he custom-made and installed all new hoses on the boom. But for the past two months, my machine has been just waiting for that one boom cylinder. Originally, he had me order a new aftermarket boom cylinder tube and piston, since the originals were dented and jammed up beyond repair. But after assembling the new aftermarket parts, he reported that my rod was also slightly bent and the assembly won't move on the test bench with less than 2500psi. I wasn't happy about this - it makes no sense to ask me to order new parts if he wasn't sure it would work with the rod we were planning to reuse. Is that what you guys would expect too?

So I've paid almost $1400 for a cylinder I don't have, and I don't even get the old broken parts (the original dented boom cylinder tube and damaged piston) to weld to my "wall of FAIL." (that's where I put any part that breaks on me).

Add to that another $700 for a new aftermarket cylinder I bought, and I've paid $2100 for that ONE cylinder. And I'm still missing the accessory parts that were on my original - the curved steel guard and the fittings.

That brings me to a question. I need to order a fitting (#49 in the image) but want to be sure I order the right part. I know it's a #12 JIC male fitting on one end, but how do I specify the other end? I've heard it called "O-ring boss" before, but what size?

Worst case, I can haul the cylinder downtown and get a match.. but I was planning to order the fitting online and have it shipped to save me a trip into town. Maybe you guys can save me a trip?

 

[ScottAR]

Ok, so I id number 49 on the lookup, 218-5065 and plug it into
the Case online "parts store" (this is new!) and it spits out:
HYD CONNECTOR, 1 1/16"-12, 37º x 7/8"-14, O-Ring
The lookup footnotes says it includes the O-ring should you decide for dealership. Most O-ring fittings I've ordered at my job come with the O-ring too but never hurts to check. HTH

 

[sporklift]

Thanks Scott! That's just what I needed to know.... surplus center (and McMaster Carr, surprisingly) don't carry that size, so I'll probably just go to the dealership tomorrow.

So close to getting it running again. When I parked it 10 weeks ago, I didn't imagine I would be down for more than about 4 days.

Anyone else have this happen with a mechanic?

 

[ScottAR]

Nope, I've never hired a mobile mechanic either though... I auto shops I've used are brick n' mortar... I wrench on my own tractors.

 

[willie59]

Here ya go sporklift. #6400-12-10.

3/4" JIC (#12) which is 1 1/6"-12 thread 37 deg flare x #10 (7/8"-14) SAE straight thread (o-ring boss)

http://www.discounthydraulichose.com/JIC_37_x_O_Ring_Boss_Steel_p/6400.htm

 

[Ando]

When I parked it 10 weeks ago, I didn't imagine I would be down for more than about 4 days.

LOL, I know that feeling.

 

[willie59]

LOL, I know that feeling.

OMG...yeah, I know that pain. LMAO! :lmao

 

[sporklift]

Parts on order (again!)

Thanks for the help and links guys! The fittings are on order now, but I'm done predicting when this will be back together.

Nice to know I'm not the only one to ever underestimate a project =)

 

[willie59]

I hope things go smooth for ya from here out sporklift. Sucks to hear your wrench put the screws to ya. :Banghead

 

[Ando]

How do you eat an elephant..........one bite at a time

 

[sandnsnow]

How do you eat an elephant..........one bite at a time

haha, Ando

 

[sporklift]

un-rusting a steel hydraulic line

Good news - with the assistance of heat lamps in the garage, I've got the cylinder painted despite the cold weather!

Bad news - now that I am installing the cylinder on my machine, I noticed that one of my steel lines is full of rust scale! :Banghead Pretty nasty stuff, too. Figuring that putting it back on as-is would be a recipe for disaster, I am trying to de-scale the rust from the inside of the pipe.

So again, I hope to lean on the experience of those who've been there, done that. I just imagine bits of scale breaking off, traveling through the system and galling the inside of the pump. Am I being paranoid about the rust?

Is my pipe salvageable? I'm soaking it in PB blaster at the moment, hoping to dissolve as much rust as possible. Is there a way to pickle the line? Would sandblasting be successful? Or is it just better to bite the bullet and get a new line made?

Attached - a few photos of the cylinder repainting.

 

[sporklift]

Photos of rusty line

So you can see how bad the rust is:

 

[willie59]

That looks nasty sporklift! Yuk! I'd sleep a whole lot better at night with a new tube on it. Just about any good hose shop would be able to make a new piece of tubing for you with the flared JIC ends, I've done it many times.


BTW, that new adjustable o-ring boss fitting you have there, make certain that you install it proper, I've seen too many that weren't and it destroys the steel washer on the fitting. Remove the fitting. Back the locking nut away from the washer. Push the washer back toward the locking nut until it bottoms against the fitting threads. Now screw the nut against washer and put some light tension on the nut. Now you're ready to grease the o-ring and install the fitting. Screw it in the cylinder until it's seated the o-ring and pointing the direction you need turning it by hand, no wrenching the fitting. If it stops short of where it needs to point, back the fitting out until it's oriented properly and lock it down in that postition with the locking nut.

 

[sporklift]

Boom Cylinder Installed. Mostly.

Today I installed the boom cylinder. Now I'm only held up by the missing hard (and rusty) hard line. I'll follow your advice and just get a new one... I've spent too much to risk over a $100 tube.

I sure like the way the new machines are with a single boom cylinder - fewer hoses, fewer places to leak and less complicated overall.

Thanks ATCO for the advice on the adjustable o-ring boss fittings. I did similar to what you suggested when I installed it. The only thing that feels sketchy is that the JIC fitting is tighter than the o-ring boss - so I have to put a wrench on the 3-way fitting to keep it from spinning when I tighen the JIC hose end. I shouldn't be cranking down on the o-ring boss fitting should I? Seems like that would damage the o-ring.

 

[willie59]

Dang, that's some nice looking work bro.

Don't worry too much about the o-ring on the adjustable fitting, it's rather durable. But it is a good idea to keep from turning the fitting while setting the hose fittings. An adjustable o-ring fitting will never be as tight as a JIC tube or hose connection, they will turn more easily. Once you get your new tube made for the cylinder, looks like you'll be good to go.