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My 580B can not even move!!!

allniterunner

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Joined
Jun 14, 2010
Messages
8
Location
Wisconsin
580 CK shuttle filter

Phil, Thanks so much for the info on the ATF. I've dumped the fluid and it looked pretty gross. Not I want to change the shuttle filter but there's nothing in front of the radiator that looks like a filter housing. Could it be located somewhere else or that my model just doesn't have one?
Thanks in advance for any and all help.
jim
 

Phil

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retired operator and mechanic
I'm quite sure even the early CK's used a shuttle filter in this location. Check again, the filter is inside the housing, marked with an arrow. Remove the 4 bolts to get the cap off. Phil:)
 

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s1120

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Apr 14, 2010
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104
Location
NY
I'm quite sure even the early CK's used a shuttle filter in this location. Check again, the filter is inside the housing, marked with an arrow. Remove the 4 bolts to get the cap off. Phil:)

I have a early one and it has that filter.

I guess the older it gets though a better chance that some PO was in there, butchering stuff up.
 

allniterunner

Member
Joined
Jun 14, 2010
Messages
8
Location
Wisconsin
Filterless

OK guys, here's the deal, still no filter. :beatsme And I don't see lines to attach one too. I'm open for ideas. I've changed the fluid with Case Transmission/Hydraulic fluid and still get the same results. Will move a little but stalls when I put a load on it. Appreciate all the help.
jim
 

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Phil

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Runner,
I don't even see oil cooler connections on your radiator.

If your machine moves but stops when there is a load on it, it may be your shuttle clutches slipping or your torque converter not operating efficiently. Is your dash pressure gauge working? If so tell us what it reads, then reads when you depress the 'clutch' pedal, also when you shift into forward or reverse. Do you have any pressure gauges that can be used for testing?

I will post a picture of the side of my shuttle valve assembly where the filter lines connect. What is your machine serial #(on dash right side)?
 

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allniterunner

Member
Joined
Jun 14, 2010
Messages
8
Location
Wisconsin
Not even a shuttle valve assembly

Phil
This can't be good. First what I do know. Serial #8348690. After that things don't look too good. As you can see from my pictures I don't have a shuttle valve assembly and I don't have any pressure gages on my dash. I do have Temperature(works), alternator(works), Gas(no work) and Time(no work) gages. So what do you think, some type of prototype 580CK? If I still need to come up with pressure gages for testing, I can do that. As always thanks for any help.
jim
 

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bub13147

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Joined
Jun 29, 2010
Messages
7
Location
ontario
580C CASE trany problems..confused.....

airr, you can get these diagrams at the Case website, http://www.casece.com/wps/portal/casece/LandingPage. Click; North American English, then click "search for parts". Type in 580B in the Model box and click search, then click on 580...with shuttle trans. You can take it from there. ;)

I have been reading this thread for days now and I am absolutely confused..

I bought a 580C Construction King with no or very little mobility. It does not move forward or reverse, just an attempt.

By reading here about the torque converter and trany it seems that the TC uses different fluid than the transmission. I in the past owned a trany shop (I did not do any work, I was just losing some of my hard earned money!) I have seen always the tranys using the SAME fluid, in the same housing. So my question: Why to use different fluid storages?

I ordered the manual for the 580C but has not arrived yet and I need to get this baby moving in my yard (50 acres).
The gauges are unreadable and I will follow the advise and install a 500 psig gauge, but I am not clear as to the diagnostics procedure. Can someone point to one procedure if available?
In the schematics for the trany by CASE, I do not see the tubes that go to the floor of the cabin labeled #1 & #2 by the pictures in this thread. What I am missing?
 

Phil

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Allnightrunner,
Sure looks like a direct drive unit to me, you lucky dog you:D
Either the motor stalls, or tires will spin, if you load the machine too much, if not, you likely have a clutch problem. As for the correct oil in your torque tube, I'll have to check.

Bub,
I'm assuming your have a 580CK, not a 580C. The C is a newer machine and does not have a dash at all like the one in nightrunners post.
"So my question: Why to use different fluid storages?" By design the transmission on a CK is common with the differential; the shuttle shift clutches and the torque converter are common. I suppose there are many reasons, including the special oil needed for the diff gears, metal contamination from the transmission/diff gears, evolution of the machine, commonizing of parts from the direct drive model, contamination from failure, the list likely goes on, as to why they kept 2 separate oil compartments.

I'd like to post a picture of the port location, used for the dash gauge. Will get back to you in the morning with procedure. Phil:)
 

bub13147

Member
Joined
Jun 29, 2010
Messages
7
Location
ontario
My Backhow not moving 580C King?

Allnightrunner,
Sure looks like a direct drive unit to me, you lucky dog you:D
Either the motor stalls, or tires will spin, if you load the machine too much, if not, you likely have a clutch problem. As for the correct oil in your torque tube, I'll have to check.

Bub,
I'm assuming your have a 580CK, not a 580C. The C is a newer machine and does not have a dash at all like the one in nightrunners post.
"So my question: Why to use different fluid storages?" By design the transmission on a CK is common with the differential; the shuttle shift clutches and the torque converter are common. I suppose there are many reasons, including the special oil needed for the diff gears, metal contamination from the transmission/diff gears, evolution of the machine, commonizing of parts from the direct drive model, contamination from failure, the list likely goes on, as to why they kept 2 separate oil compartments.

I'd like to post a picture of the port location, used for the dash gauge. Will get back to you in the morning with procedure. Phil:)

Phil: Thanks, I am not sure if I have a 580CK since all I see in the tag inside the cabin says 580C. It reads: construction king in white letters on the top of the cabin, just at the entrance door.

Also I noted that I do not have gauge for the transmiss. or shuttle pressure. I have:
Oil Temp.
Oil Pressure
Voltage
Engine Temp.

Also noted my trany has fluid just as if recently changed but with engine not running is full up to the end of the tube with measuring stick.
I am concerned with 2 wires (disconnected) going inside the shuttle cylinder or selector right at the trasmiss. as per picture below:
http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p1/electronmini/580CSelector-July_14-2010011.jpg
On the right side of the transmiss. there is a T that takes or brings fuild from the radiator (probably cooler) that also has nearby 2 disconected wires and apears to have a little screw for a wire connection. See following picture:
http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p1/electronmini/580C-Solenoid-1-July_14-2010012.jpg

What is the proper procedure to check the transmiss. fluid level? Is it with tranmiss, hot, engine running, in neutral?

Thanks..:usa........I am still waiting for the manual on the mail.

Last one, how do I know if it is a CK or C or what? Hope the Manual will tell me what all those switches and knobs are:beatsme
 

allniterunner

Member
Joined
Jun 14, 2010
Messages
8
Location
Wisconsin
Not even a shuttle valve filter

A dog is one of the nicer things I've been called, but I have been told that it's better to be lucky then good. So I'll go with the thought that this 580 is a direct drive, motor won't stall and tires won't spin under load. Therefore it may have clutch problems. Could I have further caused the decline of the clutches by using the TCH, or is that still the recommended fluid to be used in dipstick #2 of post #7. I really appreciate your help.
jim
 

Phil

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May 2, 2005
Messages
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Location
Southeastern Ontario
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retired operator and mechanic
Bub,
You do have a 580C. The shuttle is one I've never worked on. Some on this forum have in-depth experience with these, and aftermarket rebuild kits are readily available. The wires may be for a clutch disconnect, the sensor in the second picture is likely a temp sensor. Oil used is TCH oil I believe and checked hot, in neutral, and idling. Phil:)
 

truckerx

Member
Joined
Jul 19, 2011
Messages
18
Location
coventry ,ct
hey guys- got the service manual-torque tube reservoir is 16 Qts of TCH oil---------------------Transmission and differential housing is 17 Qts. SAE 90 EP @ above 32 degreees and SA 80 EP below 32 degrees- hope this helps! based on forum reviews and comments, a mix of Dextron ATF @ 25% and TCH tractor oil @ 75% helps lower the viscosity and reduce sluggish operation of the shuttle and transmission- I just drained mine and fill it with that ratio and my needle was about a third higher on the green-from what i can see and feel was maximum performance-NICE! no more hesitation even under load-very nice!Good Luck-
 

truckerx

Member
Joined
Jul 19, 2011
Messages
18
Location
coventry ,ct
had the same problem-just yesterday-drained both plugs under tractor torque tube- got less than three quarts old dirty fluid! then i filled with one gallon of dextron three and two gallons of tractor fluid- guess what? its pulled me out of my field like a dream-really! very cool!Ive got the service manual- it says to use 16 qts of TCH oil- on the torqe tube fill.----------------------the number 1 cap in the picture- its for the transmission and differential gears- it says to use 17 qts. of SAE 90 EP @ 32 degrees-SAE 80 below freezing-my trans and differential is full of milky white exactly like air but i havent drained that yet- i only changed the the torquue tube and it make forward and reverse and smooth pulling out of a muddy field a piece of cake!pretty amazing!!!!!hope this helps
 

ktm rider

Member
Joined
Sep 27, 2010
Messages
5
Location
western md.
This has been a great thread. I own a 580BCK shuttle trans with a lot of similar issues. When the weather is cool, I also have to lift the tractor and let it warm up in gear before it will move. The other day was running the machine and there was a fairly steady drip of transmission oil coming from between the engine and bell housing. Am assuming that there is a bad seal. I know that I will have to split the tractor to get at it. What should I look for as a cause of this problem? Will I need special tooling to do the job? While it is apart, are there any preventative things that I should do to ward off other problems that may arise? It will be a while before I'm home, away at a job. Thank you for your help.

I also have a leak from where the engine block and the bell housing meet. I see Phil said it was a "Wet Housing" which I also did not know. Is there any way to crack this open just a bit to get some RTV or something in there to stop the leak. Mine is a fairly good leak.
 

MMH

Member
Joined
Nov 25, 2011
Messages
21
Location
PA
Airr,
Does your shuttle pressure guage work on the dash? If so, it should be in the green, engine idling. If it is, push on the clutch pedal(dump valve) and the guage pressure should drop to zero. Let your foot off the pedal and the pedal should come all the way back to the stop. Pressure on the guage should also return immediately.

Shift to forward or reverse when idling, what does your guage do? It should only drop the width of the needle and then come back up immediately. If you don't have a working guage on the dash, you need to get one or buy a 0-500psi guage and a length of 1/4" hydraulic hose with it.

Some 580B shuttle problems are a plugged pump intake screen. Debris can accumulate under the screen which is only the width of a finger above the floor of the torque tube. Phil
Thanks for the pics!
 

BeanV

Member
Joined
Jul 12, 2009
Messages
22
Location
Harrington Delaware
Occupation
Retired
MMH and PHIL Do you guys have a quick fix to cleaning the screen in the shuttle valve? I have a 580CK that moves real slow after it warms up.
My guage seems to work OK but I'm going to replace it before I attempt the tear down of the shuttle Valve...

Thanks again for all the info on this web site.... very helpful to all.
 

Mike.580ck

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Joined
Dec 15, 2012
Messages
49
Location
Kansas
Love this Thread also, i was just dealing with some of these issues and theres a Ton of great information on this one Thanks
 
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