Just bought a used 2012 cat 236b3

[Nige]

When using the parts manual should I be using each individual part number or does the parts number at the top of a page cover all parts on the page as a whole

The answer to that question is - "It depends............."

Allow me to elaborate a little. The number at the top of the page (see illustrations below which are from your machine) is referred to as the Group Number and it includes all the individual items that are listed below the title.
Some Groups, such as the example below, will never be sold under the Group Number because there is really no relation between the individual parts. Therefore they are sold separately and you have to ask for each individual Part Number that you require.
If you want to buy everything contained in a Group it's always worth asking first "Is this sold as a complete Group?".
If the answer is yes then Happy Days, buy it under one number. It would probably be cheaper that way also.
If the answer is no then you have a longer list of individual items to buy to achieve the same objective.

 

[710]

Thank you Nige.

So I’ve had the skidsteer at Cat and have been waiting for them to finish the work we had agreed upon.

I noticed when the skid steer was coming off the trailer initially the left side wheels wouldn’t turn Almost as if the parking brake was hanging up on one side. After running for 30ish seconds you could get the machine to move (hitting the parking brake button). This has continued while being serviced and Car was thinking there was a parking break issue. Today they called and said they think it’s a drive motor because a parking brake can’t hang up on one side. They are going to test the pressures on the parking brake Monday morning to confirm if it is or is not releasing.

My question is: Is it possible for a parking brake to hang up on one side? My hydraulic fluid sample came out good and there is no obvious indication of an issue in the hydraulic system per the car dealership. The machine is sitting outside in 20-30 degree weather and it doesn’t seem like enough time for the hydraulic fluid to heat up.

Thanks again in advance.

 

[KSSS]

I have never heard of one side locking up due to a braking issue. If they don't turn it is typically a drive motor. Those temps are not cold enough to prevent a hyd. motor from turning.

 

[710]

Can there be any other causes (besides replacing the drive motor) for a side not wanting to turn initially but beginning to work after up to a minute?

 

[rondig]

Yes there are other reasons...usually a bad motor gets worse as it heats up...controls can do it. I dont think think it is p brake. Only pressure testing can tell

 

[710]

Ok thanks. Obviously I’m just being hopeful. This issue is only at start up as near as we can tell atvthe moment. Can the drive motor “hang up” on one side? Should I have expected to have seen issues in the hydraulic fluid test?

Are there tests that can positively identify the issue as a drive motor? I’m not interested in throwing large chunks of money at an issue to find out it didn’t fix anything.

 

[rondig]

If a sun gear is chipped or broke it can hang up in motor...problem with 236 motor...it does not have external sun gears....hmmm hope cat doesnt lay it to you. What controls do you have in it...also if the hydrostat pump swash plate is sticking it would do this exact problem.

 

[710]

I have pilot controls.

 

[rondig]

Yeah...i would look there...they stroke the pump....and they use charge pressure...the are actually variable flow prv's. They have very little flow and low pressure ...even thick oil will cause them to be slow and lag till warm.....motors usually get worse with heat...not better. And the motor is about 2500 bucks...

 

[Nige]

Do you have any idea what oil is in the hydraulic system right now..?
Hint: Look at the viscosity number on the oil analysis report and post it here .......

 

[710]

Do you have any idea what oil is in the hydraulic system right now..?
Hint: Look at the viscosity number on the oil analysis report and post it here .......

On the V100 part of the report (which it says is viscosity or 100c) it says 12.4

The fluid and filter was replaced just after the sample was taken with what ever CAT uses stock.

Brand type and weight is blank.

 

[Nige]

Normally I would expect that an SAE10W hydraulic oil would be around 6.0-6.5 viscosity.
An SAE30 oil would be 11.0-11.5, 12.4 on the oil analysis probably indicates that it had SAE30 oil before it was changed. That oil is only recommended for ambient temps down to freezing, not below. In comparison SAE10W would be good for ambient down to -4 DegF.

I'd give it some time on the SAE10W oil to see how it performs, especially if as you say it improves when it warms up.
It may pay you to confirm with the Cat house that they actually put SAE10W oil in it ..............

 

[710]

Normally I would expect that an SAE10W hydraulic oil would be around 6.0-6.5 viscosity.
An SAE30 oil would be 11.0-11.5, 12.4 on the oil analysis probably indicates that it had SAE30 oil before it was changed. That oil is only recommended for ambient temps down to freezing, not below. In comparison SAE10W would be good for ambient down to -4 DegF.

I'd give it some time on the SAE10W oil to see how it performs, especially if as you say it improves when it warms up.
It may pay you to confirm with the Cat house that they actually put SAE10W oil in it ..............

Thanks Nige. The amount of information you guys have on this forum is amazing.

 

[710]

As above, the hours on the meter and the visual condition of little or no smoke when fired up lead to a conclusion that the engine may not be the original. Post a S/N from the machine and the engine - I can tell you if that engine was in it when it left the factory.

Just got the machine home today. Where do I find the serial number on the engine?

Issue with the skid steer left side not wanting to move upon start up reappeared as soon as I got home. I played with it a bit and it’s almost as if the stick isn’t sending a signal for the hydraulic fluid to move that side, there is no sound of fluid being attempted to move. I don’t think it’s a drive motor. I’m leaning towards either an electrical issue or an issue in the stick. I turned the machine off and then back on and the issue went away. Never came back yet. I’ll have to keep an eye on it.

How do you tell if the machine is single or 2 speed?

As usual thanks in advance!

 

[Nige]

Engine Data Plate is usually a sticker/plate on top of the valve cover. If not it could be on side of the engine cylinder block down close to the flywheel end.

I think your problem could well be a dodgy joystick. Bad news is they are not repairable, only replace as a unit.

If your machine is equipped with 2-speed it should have a rabbit/tortoise switch on the front side of the LH joystick.

 

[710]

Engine Data Plate is usually a sticker/plate on top of the valve cover. If not it could be on side of the engine cylinder block down close to the flywheel end.

I think your problem could well be a dodgy joystick. Bad news is they are not repairable, only replace as a unit.

If your machine is equipped with 2-speed it should have a rabbit/tortoise switch on the front side of the LH joystick.

Looks like it’s not a 2 speed.

I’ve had the joystick be unresponsive a couple times at start up since I got it home.

Today I went to plow with it and it moved 5 feet and stopped. I have neither bucket or drive control. I got it to move 1 more time about 2 feet and it stopped again.

The exclamation symbol for the parking brake is flashing on start up now.

Any suggestions on how to trouble shoot? The machine broke down in the middle of my driveway.

Thanks in advance

Serial number is: a9h02916

Edit:machine is running fine but it can’t move (wheels or bucket).

Also when attempting to diagnose why my fuel gauge was inoperable I noticed someone had pulled the fuse that controlled it and all of the warning lights on the overhead dash. When I put a fuse in it gave and audible alarm with all of the lights turned on even with the key turned off and removed. So that fuse is currently not installed.

 

[rondig]

oh man can't help you on a CAT skidsteer...all mine are new Holland.....but I do feel for you....electrical problems are the worse....good luck man

 

[Nige]

Just to be clear, the symbol that is flashing is the one below. Is that correct..?


It's worrying that when you install the fuse for the fuel gauge it sets off all the warning lights even with the key removed. This appears to indicate an electrical/electronic problem somewhere. Thinking out loud I wonder if it would be worthwhile trying to fix that problem first, just in case it has some effect on your park brake issue..? How good are you with electrics and do you have a DMM..?

Unless someone else thinks different I am of the opinion that to diagnose fault codes on this machine cannot be done without Cat ET. I can't see any way to do it using any other method.

 

[Nige]

This machine was in the Cat dealer. Did they not even mention to you that there was a fuse missing while they had it in their shop..?

Checking the electrical schematic, the "gauge" fuse feeds 3 locations: -
1. Fuel gauge.
2. LH Action Lamp Gp (high coolant temp, park brake, high hyd temp, plugged hyd filter, arm rest switch, low eng oil pressure.
3. RH Lamp Gp (interlock override, high flow, implement lockout, plugged air filter, alternator)

I'm trying to figure why the parking brake light is flashing when the fuse for the power supply to that module is pulled. That doesn't make sense.
The more I think about it the more I come to the conclusion this issue has to be fixed before moving forward.

 

[John C.]

A used machine being sold by a Cat dealer has no more or less chance of being good or bad than one sold by anyone else. Current state of service personnel, internal politics and accounting mean that the dealer can no more afford to put money into used equipment service and repair than anyone else can. That means the iron comes into the lot and just sits until someone comes by to try to make a deal.