John Deere 310 SE Project

[boone]

Thanks MG, that probably answers my question. I'm pretty sure I could get the jam nut off, but my luck they wouldn't be able to use a tool on the big end after I was done chewing it up.

In your estimation how many hours of labor if I took it to a dealer?

 

[mg2361]

About 4 hrs.

 

[boone]

Thanks MG. I will probably get them to break it loose. I've got to go to Warrior today to pick up a bore kit for my stabilizer and will ask them about busting the stick cylinder for me.

I started overhauling my stabilizer cylinder last night. Whoever overhauled it last, sure loved some loctite.

 

[JL Sargent]

I don't remember doing it on the gland end of a cylinder, but often times I've used a torch to cook off the locktite first. You can tell when its burning. I've had to do it several times to piston nuts for example. It would be fun to watch MG wrestle with one!

 

[boone]

Sure would be fun! He could take a memorial day vacation to sunny Alabama

I did end up using a propane torch on the pictured bolt. I used a 4 ft cheater and lowered my box blade down on the cheater bar. There was so much loctite I had to knock the bolt out of the piston. I ordered the wrong aftermarket bore kit and have to pick one up at Warrior today.

On the stick cylinder, I reread the service manual and it says not to use a spanner on the rod guide only the jam nut. The jam nut is what's at 1000 ft/lbs. Hmmmm. I might have a go at that one.

 

[mg2361]

Whoever overhauled it last, sure loved some loctite.

The procedure in the manual says to use loctite. I guess whoever had that cylinder thought more is better.

 

[JL Sargent]

Talked to a Cat mechanic at my son's athletic banquet last night and I asked him about it. He said if he has the kit in hand and the cylinder is in good shape otherwise, he will go ahead a do a field seal job on those cylinders. I asked about the locktite/1000 ft lbs and he said a big chain wrench and his 14K lb truck crane always breaks em free. He said he does not use heat on them.

 

[boone]

Thanks for asking about that JL. I could buy a chain wrench for what they want to charge. I could also round up some mechanical muscle. I asked the parts guy at Warrior about them busting it loose and he said, "You know they're going to charge you $130 to do that?", something in his tone said you can do it.

I also have two air chisels with blunt ends where I could hit from opposite sides. I might try that first. It's amazing what those things will move.

 

[mg2361]

I also have two air chisels with blunt ends where I could hit from opposite sides

That should work.

 

[boone]

I managed the courage to attempt the stick cylinder repack this weekend. I had planned to schedule this with my dad or brother to help me, but as I was getting the backhoe out of the barn I saw the air hose by the barn door and curiosity got the best of me. I'm just going to see if this big jam nut will move. So I backed it out and back down by the door. I drew a line on the barrel, nut and gland. Then I hit it with the air chisel and low and behold it moved a bit. I moved it a bit more and then hit the gland with the chisel and it moved the slightest bit. I thought - I'm half way there now. There was no way it was at 1000 lb-ft and I later discover this thing had been apart before.

Not sure if the two dots are factory markings, but I'll use them to realign it when I assemble.



Parked it under the shade tree. I wanted to get this thing as low as I could cause I knew it was going to be a bear to take out. I cribbed up the boom since I knew the boom cylinder would drift.



Here's an expanded view.

 

[boone]

I relieved the pressure on the backhoe with the wobble sticks after the machine was off. Unbolted the pin retainer and the knocked the pin out with a longer pin I have. It came out easy. I left hoses everything connected in case I needed to unbind the pin with the machine. Just make note of the shims and spacers on the inside and outside of the pin holes.




I then proceeded to use the air chisel you'll see draped over the stick to back the jam nut off. Then used it to loosen the gland. Once the gland was moving I loosened the hydraulic lines. There was no pressure to speak off when I popped the lines off.
Then was able to use this 48" pipe wrench. I picked this up from Northern Tool a few years ago.

 

[boone]

My wife stuffed wood underneath the barrel while I picked up on it so that it would clear the end of the stick.

I started noticing something odd. The rod eye would spin super freely. I told my wife, look how worn these seals are and how free this thing moves. Soon as the gland cleared the threads, the rod angle dropped to the bottom of the barrell which I thought was even more odd. I started pulling it all out and the piston nut was almost off.





When I got it on my table, I counted how far it was from coming off and after 1.5 turns it fell off in my hand.



Thankfully, it had not come off. I don't know how. It's kissed the end of the cylinder, but I don't see any grooves in the cylinder.

 

[boone]

Another major part was done for me, but not the way I wanted it. The piston nut was off!!





The threads look ok. The nut goes on well. I don't think any major damage was done. I'm sure going to torque it down the spec. 748 lb-ft + 1/6 of a turn and loctite it.




Seals are from HW Parts Store

 

[boone]

Unfortunately, when putting the last seal in - the wiper seal I slit it with a screw driver. I knew better. I typically don't use sharp metal tools on the new seals, but I didn't have a socket big enough with me to hammer the seal down and I got in a hurry. I had to call mother Deere this morning to order the lip seal. They said they could have it here by 8 am in the morning. One thing I love about Deere parts. Anyway, she sits awaiting assembly.

 

[JL Sargent]

Glad it's all working out. It might have worked 20 years with a notched wiper, but why chance it. Better use locktite on that piston nut! Scary.

 

[boone]

Glad it's all working out. It might have worked 20 years with a notched wiper, but why chance it. Better use locktite on that piston nut! Scary.

Me too. I'm feeling very fortunate and glad I didn't put this off any longer. I know, I just couldn't stomach knowing it would essentially have a hole in it, exposing it to the elements.

I think the previous owner overhauled a couple of these backhoe cylinders years ago. I'm thinking I might take the pins out of the bucket and boom eyes and spin them around. That seems to be the easiest way to see if the nut has backed off.

 

[Fred from MO]

Unfortunately, when putting the last seal in - the wiper seal I slit it with a screw driver. I knew better. I typically don't use sharp metal tools on the new seals, but I didn't have a socket big enough with me to hammer the seal down and I got in a hurry. I had to call mother Deere this morning to order the lip seal. They said they could have it here by 8 am in the morning. One thing I love about Deere parts. Anyway, she sits awaiting assembly.

View attachment 260600

Great job! I was looking to see your air tool on what you used, but Im not seeing it in your picture???? Did you get it all back together yet??

 

[boone]

Hey Fred, I just got it back together last night. I recruited dad to help with hoisting it back in.

Went to the dealer on Wed and picked up the new seal. Interesting difference. The JD wiper seal looks a bit more substantial than this one. I'm a little disappointed in HW's wiper seal on this particular seal. The other kits I have gotten from them have the lip on the back side. This one didn't.

JD in blue and HW in white. The slit is at the 10:00 position. Can barely see it.



We were fighting the rain getting it back together so I didn't snap too many pictures. The only notes I might make is don't forget the o-ring replacement on the barrel at the end of the threads. It's easy to miss. Also, we had to use a come-along to get it back in. It was tight. Slathering of grease helped though.

I was liberal with the loctite and it's easily torqued to 1000 ft-lb.





Got all the dots aligned on the gland and barrel. Got the jam nut tightened down good. We didn't finish till after 9pm. Sorry, I didn't take a good picture of my air gun. It's just the small one that Harbor Freight sells.

 

[Fred from MO]

Wow! Check out that leverage! And Dad's not even building up a sweat it seems??. Good idea on the tracto to hold the pin area!! What did the air hammer chisle end looks like, -round or like a flat headed screwdriver? So would you recommend the Deer seal kit over the other? Did you fire it up yet and check it out?

 

[boone]

LOL! Only a finger is needed at that distance! Yeah, luckily it just fits on that drawbar. Not sure where else I would've pinned it. I don't think my workbench would hold down that vice.

I would definitely recommend the Deere wiper seal over what came in that kit. Knowing what I know now, I don't think I would buy the HW kit for the this particular 125 series cylinder. But looking back over my other HW kit pictures, they looked more like the Deere wiper seal. Not sure why it was different in this case.

Oh yeah, cranked it up and just ran it up and down a few times to bleed the air out. No leaks.

Here's a pic of the air gun and tip. It looks sharper than it is, but I might grind more off for the next one.






You're up next!