Nick G
Well-Known Member
Sure looks that way Boone
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John Deere 310 SE Project
- Thread starter boone
- Start date
Nick G
Well-Known Member
Hi Fred,
I really like the looks of that bucket on ebay. I'd buy the side cutters right way to make your side cutting edges last forever. All the big excavators I ran in the sand mine had them. Attaching a picture. I see you have 4 bolt holes on each side to bolt them on. Wish the bucket that came with my 310 had them. I suppose I could torch some holes but haven't yet. They make the bucket last a lot longer and are great for cutting off roots.
Fred from MO
Well-Known Member
Anytime I am learning. I may have scored on a repair manual (both of them) we will see when I get it in my hands..All I use as well. WIX or Napa Gold (made by Wix). Have used them for 40 years on farming equipment etc. No oil-related failures ever.
I'm giad you guys bought 310SE's so I have someone to chat with
Fred from MO
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the tip on the side cutters. I am looking into that today!
That looks like a nice heavy duty bucket at a discount price compared to OEM. Should last you a lifetime. The cutting edges might go well based on how thick the sides of the bucket are. Like Nick said, would be great for cutting roots.
I'm giad you guys bought 310SE's so I have someone to chat with
It is nice to bounce things off of people who have the machine. I was reading your thread on the deceleration smoke and I think might does that too. It did it when I was driving home anyway, but thought that may have been because it hadn't been run in 4 months prior. It seems to have gotten a little better since I've been running it.
Nick G
Well-Known Member
On the whole smoke thing, I checked my air filter, looked brand new. I'm not losing antifreeze so I'm not worried about a gasket leaking either. Doesn't use oil and the oil looks and smells normal. No moisture building up on the inside of the filler cap. I suppose I could send in an oil analysis but I think I'm going to run her for a while and monitor. Performance is great, lots of power, starts very well.
If I was bucket shopping I'd get that ebay one for sure. I replaced my first bucket teeth pins last night. Was digging in rocky ground, must have sheared those pins and the teeth fell off. I bought earlier pins and teeth from John Deere, found out NAPA has the Fanggs replacement teeth and pins for about 2/3 the price around here. Seem to be wearing well. Part #TF23D for the teeth. TF23P for the flex pins.
Can't play today, back to real job lol.
Nick
If I was bucket shopping I'd get that ebay one for sure. I replaced my first bucket teeth pins last night. Was digging in rocky ground, must have sheared those pins and the teeth fell off. I bought earlier pins and teeth from John Deere, found out NAPA has the Fanggs replacement teeth and pins for about 2/3 the price around here. Seem to be wearing well. Part #TF23D for the teeth. TF23P for the flex pins.
Can't play today, back to real job lol.
Nick
Same, I replaced my air filters. I had a concern that my front seal leak could be due to high compression build up in the crank case, but I have no blowby and the vent tube off the valve cover is shiny clean all the way through. After looking at the speedy sleeve, it's badly grooved and looks like it got a hot spot on the underside of it. Will be anxious to know if the new seal fixes it.
I haven't used mine enough to know if it uses any oil, but like you it's strong, cranks good and sounds great.
I got my teeth and pins off of ebay too. Very reasonably priced. I had one tooth adapter that was worn. The new tooth just flopped around on it, so I knew that wasn't going to work.
A bit of welding and grinding. Good thing this is covered up by the tooth, it's not pretty. But if gave a nice tight fit.
Ready for dirt.
Another known problem this machine had was a bent stabilizer rod. It wasn't bent bad, but it was leaking bad.
The worst part about these cylinders compared to the Dresser is the locking ring inside the housing. We found that prying it up with a screw driver and sticking a feeler gauge behind it would keep it from snapping back down.
I took it off and took it to a hydraulic shop to have the rod straightened, but they wanted to make me a new rod. They did check out the piston and barrel to make sure it wasn't galled. I dodged a bullet on that. I dismantled the cylinder when I took it to them and had them bust the nut off the rod. While they had it, I had them reseal the whole thing.
I also replaced the rubber spacers on both stabilizer pins near the shoes. Not sure why they were both missing.
The worst part about these cylinders compared to the Dresser is the locking ring inside the housing. We found that prying it up with a screw driver and sticking a feeler gauge behind it would keep it from snapping back down.
I took it off and took it to a hydraulic shop to have the rod straightened, but they wanted to make me a new rod. They did check out the piston and barrel to make sure it wasn't galled. I dodged a bullet on that. I dismantled the cylinder when I took it to them and had them bust the nut off the rod. While they had it, I had them reseal the whole thing.
I also replaced the rubber spacers on both stabilizer pins near the shoes. Not sure why they were both missing.
Fred from MO
Well-Known Member
Great Pics! Those darn stabilizers! Always forgetting to put those up when I go to move from a site! Oops! One thing I didn't know about the stabilizer feet was that you can pull the pins up the arm of the stabilizer and flip the feet over. The smoot part of the feat is where you work on pavement and other things, but the pointy side of the feet is for working in dirt and its supposed to hold you more. (The fun things you find out when you read the operators manual) I never knew this, and neither did my friend who has owned one for years. Im learning a lot here Boone so keep the pictures coming.
Fred from MO
Well-Known Member
Also, how many hours did you say your machine had?
Fred from MO
Well-Known Member
Also did you use one of those "pin buddies" or whatever they are called to install you bucket teeth?
Haha, I've already left my stabilizer down once already and started moving. Doh! I also read that about flipping the feet over. I saw those two pins that go in the stabilizer arms. I wasn't sure what those were for, but I just went back to the manual and see what you're talking about. Pretty cool. Do you still have rubber feet still on your pads? Mine is gone and even one of my pads (pictured above) has a corner broken out of it.
I wish I had one of those pin buddies. I had a short piece of scrap angle iron with a truss bracket on it which I used like a pin buddy. It worked well enough. If I changed these often enough I would definitely get one. I saw them for around $60. My 18" bucket is missing two teeth. I'm planning to take the best of the ones I removed from the 36" and put on my 18".
Mine has 3920 hours on it with a working hour meter. I think I've put about 4 hours on it. It's been outside it's whole life and it shows.
I was at an auction over two years ago and found three LB95s on the yard from the water department. They had cab, air, 4-n-1s, pilot controls. One of the machines went for just over $10k. Many times I wish I'd been prepared to buy it, but I was just starting to look at that time. All three had around 5000 hours on them. They were beat up a bit, but they ran good and had cold air.
Where did you guys go about getting those municipal machines?
I wish I had one of those pin buddies. I had a short piece of scrap angle iron with a truss bracket on it which I used like a pin buddy. It worked well enough. If I changed these often enough I would definitely get one. I saw them for around $60. My 18" bucket is missing two teeth. I'm planning to take the best of the ones I removed from the 36" and put on my 18".
Mine has 3920 hours on it with a working hour meter. I think I've put about 4 hours on it. It's been outside it's whole life and it shows.
I was at an auction over two years ago and found three LB95s on the yard from the water department. They had cab, air, 4-n-1s, pilot controls. One of the machines went for just over $10k. Many times I wish I'd been prepared to buy it, but I was just starting to look at that time. All three had around 5000 hours on them. They were beat up a bit, but they ran good and had cold air.
Where did you guys go about getting those municipal machines?
Another leak I've had to tackle on this machine was the backhoe valve bank. The top of the spools all leaked. The bottom return to center caps which are vented were squirting oil.
I disconnected 12 lines from this thing and took it to a hydraulic shop to have them go through the seals on it. Ended up they only replaced the seals on top and bottom of the spools.
I disconnected 12 lines from this thing and took it to a hydraulic shop to have them go through the seals on it. Ended up they only replaced the seals on top and bottom of the spools.
Got the thing back and didn't really pay much attention to one of the spools which was a bit sticky. So i put the bank back on. Shoving 80 lbs of lead up the rear of a 310 is not fun.
Anyway, turns out the swing spool was not returning to center. I thought you've got to be kidding me. Take it all back off again. Take it back to the hydraulic shop and explain what the problem is. Had to show them with some pliers what was happening. The young guy took it back apart and found a bent spring against the poppet valve. They fixed it on the spot and all seemed well.
Got it home, got it back on. Leaking as bad or worse on the two center relief valves.
I knew they didn't replace those because the seals which you can see are black and had yellow overspray on them meaning they were factory seals. So I knew then they didn't replace all the seals. At least I could get to these without taking the bank back off again. The two outer reliefs had the orange seals on them so I knew they'd been replaced in the past. Ordered the seals.
Was able to replace them no problem.
That seemed to fix the valve bank leaks. After that ordeal, i needed a few pressure relief seals myself.
Anyway, turns out the swing spool was not returning to center. I thought you've got to be kidding me. Take it all back off again. Take it back to the hydraulic shop and explain what the problem is. Had to show them with some pliers what was happening. The young guy took it back apart and found a bent spring against the poppet valve. They fixed it on the spot and all seemed well.
Got it home, got it back on. Leaking as bad or worse on the two center relief valves.
I knew they didn't replace those because the seals which you can see are black and had yellow overspray on them meaning they were factory seals. So I knew then they didn't replace all the seals. At least I could get to these without taking the bank back off again. The two outer reliefs had the orange seals on them so I knew they'd been replaced in the past. Ordered the seals.
Was able to replace them no problem.
That seemed to fix the valve bank leaks. After that ordeal, i needed a few pressure relief seals myself.
Fred from MO
Well-Known Member
Man that stinks. At least you were able to fix them right without much hassle other than your frustration. Way to stick with it. Sometimes when things keep going wrong, you have to just walk away for a while and think about it. Just remember, everything can be fixed someway or somehow....And the new belt looks nice on the front of the engine!Got the thing back and didn't really pay much attention to one of the spools which was a bit sticky. So i put the bank back on. Shoving 80 lbs of lead up the rear of a 310 is not fun.
Anyway, turns out the swing spool was not returning to center. I thought you've got to be kidding me. Take it all back off again. Take it back to the hydraulic shop and explain what the problem is. Had to show them with some pliers what was happening. The young guy took it back apart and found a bent spring against the poppet valve. They fixed it on the spot and all seemed well.
Got it home, got it back on. Leaking as bad or worse on the two center relief valves.
View attachment 217601
I knew they didn't replace those because the seals which you can see are black and had yellow overspray on them meaning they were factory seals. So I knew then they didn't replace all the seals. At least I could get to these without taking the bank back off again. The two outer reliefs had the orange seals on them so I knew they'd been replaced in the past. Ordered the seals.
View attachment 217598
Was able to replace them no problem.
View attachment 217599
That seemed to fix the valve bank leaks. After that ordeal, i needed a few pressure relief seals myself.
Fred from MO
Well-Known Member
Here is a picture of my stabilizer pad, I have the pad flipped around now so the street pad side is against the cab and the dirt side is the one that goes into the ground now. 99.9% of my work will be on the dirt around the place so I figured I would go this route.
Thanks for the picture, Fred. I haven't flipped mine yet, but like you most of my digging will be in the dirt. It's easy enough to flip them around. Ran it a bit this weekend. Pushed over a blow down stump that I'm planning to bury. Need to cut more off it before i bury it. Hauled an oak branch to my burn pile, loaded up some wood chunks in it and set a t-post with the backhoe. It's super versatile. Loving it so far.