Hi lg junior:
I don't have a picture of the bushing press. However I will attempt to draw you a verbal picture. Get a coffee and turn off Led Zeppelin and no whisky.
You gotta visualize big time. The unit was made of heavy 4" steel angle. Bits of this and that. It lay horizontal. It was about 3 feet long and a bit wider than a track pad about 26" or so. A separated and single track pad was put into the frame works with the center guide DOWN. There were small guide points welded on to position the pad. Two big 'C Clamps' held the pad in the unit. Lots of fun getting these things just right. You will probably come up with something better. A 10 ton hydraulic bottle jack did the pushing. It was a bit on the weak side but a tiger torch would get the dead bushing's attention.
Remember, you will push only One bushing at a time. When the bushing exits the bushing bore, then use the longer 'track pin pusher' for the next bushing which will be in line with the bushing just pushed out.
The two long bushings would be pushed out, as an example, the bores cleaned and GENUINE FMC magic fluid would be applied to the new bushing. Unless you know about a substitute, don't even think about using something else. I had an open can with this fluid in it. Roll the bushing in the fluid, insert pusher pin into the bushing. Get fingers moving, tongue sticking out of side of ur mouth, raise one eyebrow and start pumping the jack. The rubber will really stretch but a touch of pre heat BEFORE you put the pushing in the press, expands the bore but don't overdo the heat. You'll figure it out. You have to push the bushing in a tad further than needed. I made up a threaded puller to pull the bushing back a bit to get it positioned just right if I went to far. Eventually, with practice getting perfect, automatic pull back will be no problem and the bushing will be perfectly placed right away.
A second jack on the opposite end of the press unit would be ideal for a quick shove on the bushing to get it positioned just right if you go too far.
ALWAYS do the furthest bushing first. You may find otherwise. Keep shortening up the pusher pins as you work the bushings away from the jack. I connected two pieces of track pins for more length by cutting an old bushing center in half and slipping the two pusher pins into this as a coupler. Of course, the threaded ends of the old pusher track pin have to be cut off. More on this later. This must be confusing but I'm sure I'm putting some useful thoughts into your head somehow.
The jack was put on its side with the pump on the bottom. Of course. Make sure jack is a tad overfilled with oil.
Old track pins were cut up for different pushing lengths. The metal six sided part of an old bushing was used as a pusher against the dead bushing. This part was slipped over the track pin which was to be used as the pusher. Slip a another bushing steel centre on the pin to act as as a stopper between the jack and the new or old bushing when pushing. Otherwise the jack will simply push the pusher track pin thru the old or new bushing. I welded a washer on a few of the pusher pins to do this but slipping on an extra bushing centre or two worked well.You gotta experiment with the lengths. The side of the pad with the two Big Bushings used diff. lengths of pushers than the other side with the three bushings.
Honestly, I shouldn't even attempt a verbal description since speech isn't my native tongue. We haven't even got to the tricky part and I'm sure my crude attempts are confusing you.
Oh Kay! Now for the tricky part. I don't think I could even draw what I'm about to tell you next. As you know, the bushings have a 6 sided steel centre into which slides the six sided track pin. When the bushing is in the pad, the six sides of the centre are not at right angles to the pad. They are off square just a tad to facilitate the track strand's easy curving around the drive sprocket and rear idler. I think this was not needed but it is there anyway. That is why when a new strand of track is released from the shipping bands, the track will try to unroll.
So, if you look at good bushings in a pad you will see this slight diff. You will notice this when pounding in track pins. The pads to be joined have to be NOT flat. Right? Too much fun.
So eyeball this angle. Its not a large angle. Just get it real close. Even if you want to have the angles at right angles to the pad, you still have to have the bushings in agreement with each other or the pin wont go in. I figure you this. LOL
Now the tricky part.
When putting the new bushings into the pad, they have to have this angle to mate up with the other pads when pounding the pins in. So, on the head of the jack, the push part with the screw end, I welded a short, say 1/2" or so length of the 6 sided bushing centre onto the end of the jack. Then I welded a piece of 1" x 1/4" mild steel which would fit in a guide on the press, beneath the track pad. This guide ran the length of the press. You gotta exp. with the angle of the guide tab and the bit of bushing centre which is welded to the jack.
The idea is, when the guide tab is in the guide, the bit of bushing center welded to the jack will put the bushing into the pad at the correct angle because the pusher pin is inserted into the new bushing so the angles are the same all around. See, the old six sided track pin will fit nicely into the six sided piece on the end of the jack. The old pusher pin will slip into the new six sided bushing and all will be well as far as getting the correct angle on the new bushing.
When doing the side of the pad with the three bushings, there will be a different groove guide which the tab on the jack will drop into and the bushings on the opposite side will have the correct bushing angle. Now that you know this is what one needs to watch out for, you will figure out how to best go about it. I'm sure I got brain damage when I conjured the press up. I was logging in the Queen Charlottes and paying freight from there to Nelson was prohibitive. Not to mention the one month turnaround. I could change the side with 2 big bushings within an hour. The side with three bushings was always more challenging. You'll find out. I would usually change the side with two. The side with three bushings was usually okay.
Hope this helps. It's really not that complicated once you get a start on fabbing up the press. There's lotsa ways to skin a cat so I'm sure you'll get something satisfactory with a bit of trial and error. It's worth it.
To push the short bushings, lift the pad out of the press, turn it and clamp. More experimenting with the line up. You'll see.