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Galion 150 Refurbish
- Thread starter BobCatBob
- Start date
Thanks Rick
I built a work platform (actually my retired father did, he's a solid carpenter) to work on the diverter valve behind the boom/replace the hoses. He'll add some stairs and guard rails......a lot cheaper than renting a man lift to get up and down. I've worked up on the boom when painting it last summer.....always makes me a little nervous that high up with no easy tie off.
Having fun!
I built a work platform (actually my retired father did, he's a solid carpenter) to work on the diverter valve behind the boom/replace the hoses. He'll add some stairs and guard rails......a lot cheaper than renting a man lift to get up and down. I've worked up on the boom when painting it last summer.....always makes me a little nervous that high up with no easy tie off.
Having fun!
I think I got the leak!! I've been dreading the likely fact the crowd cylinders need to be rebuilt (a monsterous task), so I figured I would work on the crowd cylinder diverter valve and see if there might be an issue. After getting it out of the machine and inspecting......one of the three o-rings was missing on the mounting face!!! I cleaned her up, reinstalled.....no leak!!! WOW.......very lucky on this one.
My father built a platform to do this work (would of been very difficult and sketchy without) ....so replaced all the hoses while up there (including the crowd cylinder hoses). The following pictures show the completed work, but missed a picture of the come-a-long I used on the hose trolly. The Gleeson reel maintains a decent amount of tension on the crowd hoses.....the trick was getting it back far enough to slip the new hoses over the trolly. I ended up using a strap wrapped around the winch and one wrapped around the hose trolly....with a come along between the two. Worked like a charm. I was going to wind the gleeson reel with a spanner and breaker bar instead (last picture), but after one rotation, standing on a ladder......too dangerous if that thing let go (safety 1st!).
Having Fun!
My father built a platform to do this work (would of been very difficult and sketchy without) ....so replaced all the hoses while up there (including the crowd cylinder hoses). The following pictures show the completed work, but missed a picture of the come-a-long I used on the hose trolly. The Gleeson reel maintains a decent amount of tension on the crowd hoses.....the trick was getting it back far enough to slip the new hoses over the trolly. I ended up using a strap wrapped around the winch and one wrapped around the hose trolly....with a come along between the two. Worked like a charm. I was going to wind the gleeson reel with a spanner and breaker bar instead (last picture), but after one rotation, standing on a ladder......too dangerous if that thing let go (safety 1st!).
Having Fun!
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ichudov
Senior Member
Looks very nice. I am rebuilding various parts of my crane as I go along.
I try to keep it in a working shape so that I can use it meanwhile. Much of the air brake system needs a rebuild, s due to air leaks and old rubber.
That is relatively easy to do, as similar parts are used in heavy duty trucks and are easy to come by. I will replace the brake chambers, already replaced the parking brake valve. Some other master valve under the crane (modulating?) looks to be recently replaced.
Some hydraulics also needs repair, such as outrigger cylinders which I want to do preventatively.
After I am done with that I will try to paint it, although not as thoroughly as you.
This crane is for making money, but I want to make sure that it looks good in front of people.
I admire what you have done to the looks of that Galion.
I try to keep it in a working shape so that I can use it meanwhile. Much of the air brake system needs a rebuild, s due to air leaks and old rubber.
That is relatively easy to do, as similar parts are used in heavy duty trucks and are easy to come by. I will replace the brake chambers, already replaced the parking brake valve. Some other master valve under the crane (modulating?) looks to be recently replaced.
Some hydraulics also needs repair, such as outrigger cylinders which I want to do preventatively.
After I am done with that I will try to paint it, although not as thoroughly as you.
This crane is for making money, but I want to make sure that it looks good in front of people.
I admire what you have done to the looks of that Galion.
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Thanks Ichudov
How are you transporting your Grove to jobs? Did you need a operators license on those? I've told my neighbors I can help them, but for no pay as I don't have certification nor insurance....it's a hobby.
Hey, I read a post you had on a bubble level......I'm in process of doing the same myself. I plan on leveling the machine using the turntable at the base of the pedestal as it's zero point ..making sure that is dead nuts on.....then shimming the bubble level on a flat surface in the cab. The only problem is the cab is mounted on rubber isolators, so will have to check for repeatability first.
ichudov
Senior Member
I have a lowboy semi trailer, and this is how I transport this crane.
You have all the toys! Very cool.
ichudov
Senior Member
So, what are the specs of this galion, what is the boom length and max capacity?
60' four part boom, 15 Ton, power shift transmission, 453N Detroit Diesel...old school.
ichudov
Senior Member
How did you remove the old paint so well?
I cleaned the surface with a hot pressure washer, used purple power to get any residual grease off, then wire brushed the surface for flaking paint. Once clean, I applied citrus strip :
http://www.homedepot.com/b/Paint-Pa...paint+remover?Ntx=mode+matchpartialmax&NCNI-5
This stuff worked like magic!! The trick was applying a heavy coat (with a paint brush), let it sit overnight in 50-60 degree weather, then scrape it off. It removed the majority of the paint........with about 10% that needed a second coat or wire brush off. Citrus strip does not put off a toxic fume, nor does it burn your skin (I used rubber gloves to play it safe)......absolutely great stuff!
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ichudov
Senior Member
I wish that I had a detroit instead of Cummins... Thanks for sharing on paint removal.
Thanks Rick. When are we going to see some pictures of that dozer?
The Detroit is a bulletproof engine. The downside is the Oil slobbering from the breather tubes (They call them DripTroits)....and the cold blooded nature of the engine.....have to use an oil or coolant heater when it goes below freezing.
A lot of those detroits have a tank for those drip tubes. A small air tank with a drain valve works perfectly. Drain the slobber tank at every oil change. I've never been around one that didn't leak oil from multiple locations tho. I have heard if you put a 210 degree thermostat in it helps with the oil leaking but I don't know.
I always thought a Detroit was one of the better cold starting engines. If the rack and valves are set right it always seemed they fired like a scared rabbit.
I always thought a Detroit was one of the better cold starting engines. If the rack and valves are set right it always seemed they fired like a scared rabbit.
kshansen
Senior Member
- Joined
- Mar 11, 2012
- Messages
- 11,174
- Location
- Central New York, USA
- Occupation
- Retired Mechanic in Stone Quarry
One thing that seems to help with the oil leaks and oil usage is running the proper oil. Here's a little snippet out of the operators manual:
3. For continuous high temperature operation (over 200 F or 94 C coolant out), the use
of an SAE grade 50 lubricant in DDC two-stroke cycle Series 53, 71 and 92 engines is
required. SAE grade 50 lubricants are also required for all Series 149 engines where
ambient temperatures are above 95 F (35 C).
4. At ambient temperatures below freezing (32 F or 0 C), sufficient starter cranking speed
may not be achieved to start the engine with SAE 40 grade oils. Where starting aids are
not available or at very cold temperatures (0 F to -25 F or -18 C to -32 C) even if
starting aids are available, the use of multigrade SAE 15W-40 or monograde lubricant
SAE 30 will improve startability. These lubricants must possess a High Temperature
– High Shear Rate Viscosity (measured by ASTM D 4741 or equivalent) of 3.70 cP
minimum. These oils must be replaced with monograde SAE 40 lubricants as soon as
ambient conditions permit. Do not use multigrade or SAE 30 grade lubricants in
two-stroke cycle marine engines or Series 149 under any circumstances.
5. At lower ambient temperatures where sufficient starter cranking speed may not be
achieved to start the engine with SAE 50 grade oils, SAE grade 40 oils may be used. SAE
50 grade oils are not recommended below 45 F (7 C) ambient.
Basically you need a diesel engine oil specifically for a two-stroke diesel. These oils have the API Service Category CF-II. Yes, 40 wt. is correct, but SAE 40 CF-II.
Delvac Detroit or XD-3 40W. These are low ash CD/CF-2 oils and are the oils used by Detroit Diesel OEM
3. For continuous high temperature operation (over 200 F or 94 C coolant out), the use
of an SAE grade 50 lubricant in DDC two-stroke cycle Series 53, 71 and 92 engines is
required. SAE grade 50 lubricants are also required for all Series 149 engines where
ambient temperatures are above 95 F (35 C).
4. At ambient temperatures below freezing (32 F or 0 C), sufficient starter cranking speed
may not be achieved to start the engine with SAE 40 grade oils. Where starting aids are
not available or at very cold temperatures (0 F to -25 F or -18 C to -32 C) even if
starting aids are available, the use of multigrade SAE 15W-40 or monograde lubricant
SAE 30 will improve startability. These lubricants must possess a High Temperature
– High Shear Rate Viscosity (measured by ASTM D 4741 or equivalent) of 3.70 cP
minimum. These oils must be replaced with monograde SAE 40 lubricants as soon as
ambient conditions permit. Do not use multigrade or SAE 30 grade lubricants in
two-stroke cycle marine engines or Series 149 under any circumstances.
5. At lower ambient temperatures where sufficient starter cranking speed may not be
achieved to start the engine with SAE 50 grade oils, SAE grade 40 oils may be used. SAE
50 grade oils are not recommended below 45 F (7 C) ambient.
Basically you need a diesel engine oil specifically for a two-stroke diesel. These oils have the API Service Category CF-II. Yes, 40 wt. is correct, but SAE 40 CF-II.
Delvac Detroit or XD-3 40W. These are low ash CD/CF-2 oils and are the oils used by Detroit Diesel OEM
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