-
Thank you for visiting HeavyEquipmentForums.com! Our objective is to provide industry professionals a place to gather to exchange questions, answers and ideas. We welcome you to register using the "Register" icon at the top of the page. We'd appreciate any help you can offer in spreading the word of our new site. The more members that join, the bigger resource for all to enjoy. Thank you!
Ford backhoes
- Thread starter hmover
- Start date
Gary2Wheels1
Member
Does any one know of a lead to a lift cylinder for the Ford 750 tlb?..I've put out a couple of quote requests....or new one and it's maker?
Gary2Wheels1
Member
I had a local shop take the hydraulic cylinder apart,and as I had thought the nut had come off the piston rod.The last person that had it apart used a nylok nut,instead of a grade 8 as rquired.I did some further damage to the seals and piston spacer,and cylinder walls,when I was trying to diagnose,but it's repaired,back together and on the machine..it was memorable.
rustyjames
Well-Known Member
Hi Everyone,
I've got a shot at picking up an '88 655 2wd. hoe for around 8 grand, and would like to know the Ford experts thoughts on a few things. The machine is supposed to only have around 2,000 hrs. on it. The guy who's selling it is telling me the machine won't move in forward or reverse until it warms up for a few minutes, regardless of the outdoor temperature. After it warms up, the machine performs like it's supposed to. He also said that one of the rear stabilizers creeps down while in use. Other than those issues the machine is tight, all the glass is good, heater and lights all work, etc. Any thoughts?
I've got a shot at picking up an '88 655 2wd. hoe for around 8 grand, and would like to know the Ford experts thoughts on a few things. The machine is supposed to only have around 2,000 hrs. on it. The guy who's selling it is telling me the machine won't move in forward or reverse until it warms up for a few minutes, regardless of the outdoor temperature. After it warms up, the machine performs like it's supposed to. He also said that one of the rear stabilizers creeps down while in use. Other than those issues the machine is tight, all the glass is good, heater and lights all work, etc. Any thoughts?
Gary2Wheels1
Member
as you describe,I'd doubt the hours..in the NYC metro area machines like this get a lot of use.The stabilizer creeping down indicates a leak somewhere...what shape are the hydraulic lines in?.I would probaly be worth your while to pay for an inspection by a local equipment dealer or contractor..
rustyjames
Well-Known Member
Gary,
Thanks for your input. The machine has no visible, external leaks. I'm pretty knowledgable about equipment as I've been exposed to the heavy construction industry since I was a kid, and am certified in heavy equipment repair. I'm not really concerned about the stabilizer creep as much as I am about the machine needing to have to "warm up" before it'll move. The guy who's selling it is a good friend and he said when he bought it, about a year ago, it worked fine. This guy treats his equipment better than anyone I know of. I'm not that familiar with Fords, but I've done a little research and from what I've gathered is that the problem could be in the dump valve? I was kinda hoping someone here with Ford experience could offer their input as to what the problem might be and what I'd be looking at as far as cost for a fix.
Thanks for your input. The machine has no visible, external leaks. I'm pretty knowledgable about equipment as I've been exposed to the heavy construction industry since I was a kid, and am certified in heavy equipment repair. I'm not really concerned about the stabilizer creep as much as I am about the machine needing to have to "warm up" before it'll move. The guy who's selling it is a good friend and he said when he bought it, about a year ago, it worked fine. This guy treats his equipment better than anyone I know of. I'm not that familiar with Fords, but I've done a little research and from what I've gathered is that the problem could be in the dump valve? I was kinda hoping someone here with Ford experience could offer their input as to what the problem might be and what I'd be looking at as far as cost for a fix.
Gary2Wheels1
Member
RJ...well,I think you're on top of it.I would just suggest first making sure the transmission fluid is up,and the filter clean.That's just a shot at the basics first.I think the main positive thing is that you know the seller,and have some idea of the machine's history.My old 750tlb has a three speed automatic...the fluid was so low on the dip stick,i couldl'nt even see it.These machines get worked hard,and poorly maintained.Meb'be ssomeone else here can be of more help re the sluggish tranny...
Last edited:
rustyjames
Well-Known Member
Gary,
The guy is a stickler when it comes his equipment, and he's serviced the whole machine. The tranny isn't sluggish, it just won't move in either direction until it runs for a few minutes. And he said that it all of a sudden started doing it, there was never any problem with the machine. I'll do a little more research and make a decision, I really don't need anything in my life at this point that needs extensive fixing.
The guy is a stickler when it comes his equipment, and he's serviced the whole machine. The tranny isn't sluggish, it just won't move in either direction until it runs for a few minutes. And he said that it all of a sudden started doing it, there was never any problem with the machine. I'll do a little more research and make a decision, I really don't need anything in my life at this point that needs extensive fixing.
davis1676
Well-Known Member
do you still have the problem with the machine not moving until its warm. I have the manuals for my 555b (shuttle transmission) I can look it up in my books.
maddogoffroad
Member
Hey guy, i just bought a 555A. i had the engine totaly rebuilt, injection pump rebuilt too. The hydrolic put let go shortly after, i found one that i made fit(only as a1gpm more). After all i got it all in the back of the one control valve broke right off. I took the all off and i have to replace one of the slice/knife control valve section. i have a skecth here, they call it a "20J03 control valve 4 Lever"
parts number:E5NND661AA
Parts name: Knife section
Description:section Assy. Lift, start year04/01/1978
Any of you have any section kicking around?
verville@eastlink.ca
Thanks
parts number:E5NND661AA
Parts name: Knife section
Description:section Assy. Lift, start year04/01/1978
Any of you have any section kicking around?
verville@eastlink.ca
Thanks
ababine
Member
Hello Everyone,
I just purchased a 1984 Ford 755A Backhoe. I am happy with the machine, but I have a few questions for the experts. I have been told that quite a few people have the same issue with the tractor not moving until completely warmed up. Well I warmed it for 45 minutes this one cold morning, and it still didn't want to move in 10 degree weather. I found out that the gear shifter that I thought was frozen in 2nd was actually frozen in 3rd. the needle was bent. I was able to hold the shifter in first and it would move and ran fine after that. My problem is the gear shifter being frozen. Does anyone know the easiest way to get penetrating oil down the shaft. Short of drilling a bunch of holes everywhere, I am going to have to take half the machine apart. Taking the column apart got me nowhere.
Thank you for your time and I enjoy hearing of your experiences.
I just purchased a 1984 Ford 755A Backhoe. I am happy with the machine, but I have a few questions for the experts. I have been told that quite a few people have the same issue with the tractor not moving until completely warmed up. Well I warmed it for 45 minutes this one cold morning, and it still didn't want to move in 10 degree weather. I found out that the gear shifter that I thought was frozen in 2nd was actually frozen in 3rd. the needle was bent. I was able to hold the shifter in first and it would move and ran fine after that. My problem is the gear shifter being frozen. Does anyone know the easiest way to get penetrating oil down the shaft. Short of drilling a bunch of holes everywhere, I am going to have to take half the machine apart. Taking the column apart got me nowhere.
Thank you for your time and I enjoy hearing of your experiences.
jimg984
Senior Member
transmission gear don't work down the column,, thats forward/reverse/netural shift shaft
the gear shifting works with the shaft coming strait up from the transmission,,,, no wonder it would'n move with it in third gear and 10 degrees. at low temps i extend out riggers and raise rear tires off the ground and let the engine turn the tire for about 15 minutes
i guess you know all this,,, but your descrption confussed me,,,, sounds like water got in thru a hole in the boot,,,, put pentreting oil in the same way
the gear shifting works with the shaft coming strait up from the transmission,,,, no wonder it would'n move with it in third gear and 10 degrees. at low temps i extend out riggers and raise rear tires off the ground and let the engine turn the tire for about 15 minutes
i guess you know all this,,, but your descrption confussed me,,,, sounds like water got in thru a hole in the boot,,,, put pentreting oil in the same way
Last edited:
ababine
Member
I should have clarified. It shifts F N R fine, but it is stuck in 2nd gear. I can't seem to get it to click into 1st or 3rd without holding the shifter.
Hi all...I'm new to the forum. Just bought my first backhoe and really have no experience with them. I have a 73' Ford 4500 (201 Diesel) with a 740 loader and a 755 hoe. It's in pretty decent shape considering it's age and runs and operates pretty good overall. I'm in the process of reworking the hoe lever assembly that was very sloppy...new bushings, shafts, pins, etc. It also needs new pins and bushings for the bucket. Does anyone know where to get them? So far I've discovered that some people have gone to bearing distributors for the bushings and purchased a length of 4140 (1-1/2") and had a machine shop cut them. My Ford also has a GM alternator on it which eliminated use of the proof meter. I'd like to get it working, but I'm not sure if that's possible without buying the alternator conversion kit with the Tach drive. Is there another cheaper option? The only thing that works in the instrument panel is the oil pressure light. I thought I'd start troubleshooting the Temp & Fuel gauges by checking the grounds and sending units. Can a jumper wire from the battery be used to test the gauges in the instrument panel? I appreciate any information you can offer. Thanks
frogfarmer
Well-Known Member
4500 is a nice solid older Hoe and should serve you well. Pins and bushings are cheapest to get from a machine shop and a Hoe that old might not be factory so OEM parts might not work even of they are available. 201 is an excellent engine and ultra reliable. As far as the proof meter I have no use for them on a machine of this type. These older Hoes don't see thousands of hours of use and maintenance is more of a yearly issue. To answer your question Yes you can operate the Proofmeter with an oil pump drive instead of the generator drive but you will need the Proofmeter that turns the correct direction most likely cost prohibitive. Yours should be right to left and you will need left to right. Keep the GM alt they are cheap, reliable, and work very well for this type of application. As far as the gauges its a troubleshoot situation. Congrats on the new machine I had to look at your location because I looked at one yesterday that was sold just prior to my inquiry. Thought maybe you bought the Hoe I was considering.
i am a proud owner of a 655A 4x4, bought it two years ago for 1000 bucks! motor was locked up. the day after i pulled it home with a pickup (didnt have a trailer at the time, and being hydraulic steering, we couldnt steer it on the road) i had the motor out and off to my mechanic to start rebuilding it, after it took about six months for him to finish the rebuild, it had one new rod, new crank, a few new valves and lifters, new powersteering pump, injection pump rebuilt, new pistons and several other new parts. and with in a few days i had it back in the backhoe. and ready to run. fired right up! but it wasnt charging right, had alternator rebuilt but didnt fix the charging problem. the wiring was a rat nest anyways so i decided to tear every single wire on the backhoe off and built my own custom wiring harness. and it worked perfectly! (i got lucky). So after some use and more minor maintenance things i have got her up and running good. and withing the past few weeks i have completely replaced all the hydraulic lines on the hoe. and my do more on the machine still. for what i have in my 655A i would have to say i am pretty satisfied with it. yes it probably has around 10,000 hours and lots of play in everything it still works well and has already paid its self off! also when i got it i took the gauge cluster apart and rolled the hours back 0 so it had a fresh start with the new motor. since that hour meter wasnt even hooked up and it had two other hour meters on it with several thousand hours on each one. The only problem i have with it is that it seems to not have a air vent in the transmission? and builds up pressure and after a couple of hours of switching from forward and reverse it quits moving, if i open the transmission dip stick and release all the pressure and let it cool off for a little bit it will run just fine. any one have any suggestions about this issue?
Does anyone know of a bearing distributor or manufacturer that carries the bucket bushings for my Ford 4500 with 755 hoe? Dimensions according to FNH are 1.5"ID x1.69"OD x2.25"L (FNH part# 770104). FNH wants $62/ea. I can't find them anywhere else.
HELP...I need to rebuild a 201 diesel engine in my 73 Ford 4500 Industrial TLB. I've been trying to find a SERVICE manual with instructions on how to remove the front axle assembly with 740 loader attached. The only SERVICE manual I can find, which I already have, is for an agricultural 4500 - tractor only. (Ford 4500 Agricultural Tractor Repair Workshop Service Manual 1965-1975). This manual does not include removing hydraulic lines, etc. associated with the loader and hydraulic pump. I appreciate any information you can provide. Thanks
They are seperate manuals. A 4500 should have a 740 loader on it, look for a manual for that. Just fyi, the backhoe unit will be on another manual.
Front Axle to Oil Pan Shims
After pulling the front axle assembly away from the engine on my 4500, I discovered several shims on the ground under the front left (drag link) side of the oil pan, but I'm not sure if I found all of them. After doing some research, I found the following exploded view on the New Holland site, but I don't know if all 5 shims listed as item 59 are required or if each application is unique:
http://partstore.agriculture.newholland.com/us/parts-search.html#epc::mr49534ar259390bi2382599-59
Is there a set size and number of shims needed between the front of the oil pan and the front axle frame assembly?
After pulling the front axle assembly away from the engine on my 4500, I discovered several shims on the ground under the front left (drag link) side of the oil pan, but I'm not sure if I found all of them. After doing some research, I found the following exploded view on the New Holland site, but I don't know if all 5 shims listed as item 59 are required or if each application is unique:
http://partstore.agriculture.newholland.com/us/parts-search.html#epc::mr49534ar259390bi2382599-59
Is there a set size and number of shims needed between the front of the oil pan and the front axle frame assembly?